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Huskee Log Splitter replacement engine

Discussion in 'Homeowner Helper Forum' started by Fruitfarmer3428, Nov 25, 2018.

  1. Fruitfarmer3428

    Fruitfarmer3428 New Member

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    Was checking out threads on this subject. I was moving my splitter with a loader when it spilled out and caused significant damage to the OEM engine, enough so that I thought repairs might exceed what a replacement engine would be. There were several recommendations for the Predator 212 engine, and I certainly considered that, but the crank rotation was opposite the B&S 6.5 series engine and a horizontal shaft as well. This might have required a different pump, and I was more interested it keeping it as original as possible. I settled on the Predator 173cc 6.5 hp engine, which was a bit more expensive, $119 as opposed to the 212 cc engine at $99. Of course bolt patterns didn't line up, but the shaft size was the same as the B&S, so the coupler worked as well.
    Someone reported the shaft was a bit longer, and they chose to grind some length off. I elected to shim with engine mounts with washers. I mounted the engine 90 degrees from the original mount, as it gave me better acces to the air cleaner and the exhaust was then located away from the splitter operator. The pull start is perpendicular to the splitter cylinder, not an issue. It took some doing to locate the new mounting holes, I ended up positioning the engine, using a paint can spraying the mounting base with a shot down the mounting holes and it worked. A couple of things you'll have to deal with if you go this route. This is a mower engine, as was the B&S, it is a bit smaller at 173cc that the B&S at 190cc, but I believe it a more powerful engine and OHV as well. It is set up for a mower speed control cable, not a lever. I fabricated a piece of coat hanger, ran it through a small diameter plastic gas line and crimped it with the cable clamp sufficiently that it holds the throttle in position. The second issue is that the engine is killed with an engine brake, a safety feature on a mower, this has to be deactivated prior to starting. I took a heavier gauge wire drew it through the normal brake cable mount and bent it to prevent the brake from killing the engine. I was hoping that simply returning the throttle to idle would kill the engine, it doesn't, the brake is the kill switch so I put a second bend in the wire, and a loop in the end which allows me to release and engage the brake. I may refine it later, but for now it is working.
    I want to run the engine for a bit, prior to getting back to splitting, so far it seems to start at least as well as the B&S, but I have no reason to believe it won't work satisfactorily.
    Even if it doesn't I'm not out that much.
    There is no other substitute engine that I am aware of is a perfect match, and if there is, it's likely at least 2X the cost. Hope this helps anyone else who is in the same situation.




    s
     
  2. ArtB

    ArtB ArboristSite Operative

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    re:
    Hope this helps anyone else who is in the same situation.

    When moving equipment with a loader, be sure a chain is involved to secure the equipment ?
     
  3. Fruitfarmer3428

    Fruitfarmer3428 New Member

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    Update on the engine replacement. At this time I can report, that using this engine is not going to be a satisfactory result. I ended up having to fabricate a mounting plate, the crankshaft was not the same length as the B&S 6.5 that was OEM, so it required some spacing shims as well. The thing has been kicking back irregularly, when attempting to start, someone referenced that it kicked like a Missouri Mule, that was appropriate, literally rips the cord out of your hands. Being that the recoil assembly is plastic and is now broken, and Harbor Freight doesn't offer that part. I was able to find one on V power.com, $19 less shipping. I have checked the valve timing, and reset, possibly better, and pulling the blower shroud, and flywheel nut, appears that the key is in place and intact. Guy at V power, seems knowledgeable on the engine, and suggests that this is a mower engine, with an aluminum flywheel, the mower blade may have added enough momentum that prevents it from kicking back, where the B&S engines flywheel was cast and heavier so maybe didn't need that. The hydraulic pump really wouldn't provide much momentum/inertia. Guess that is possible. It is cold here this time of year, and the engine will start, but quits quickly unless I can get to the primer bulb and keep pumping fuel to the carb. requires several attempts to keep it running.
    By the way, the engine brake on this motor includes a grounding wire for the coil, the engine brake itself could be taken off, and spring disconnected and remainder used as a kill switch.
    My recommendation is if you have to replace the orig. engine, save yourself a lot of grief and find one more comparable, it will cost you less in terms of time an aggravation, even if you have to go with a horizontal shaft engine and relocate the hydraulic pump.
     

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