I had this thread bookmarked from the beginning. Thank you for the help too and congrats on your build. The last pieces and parts for my 288xp should be delivered today, it's running I just have to add a few more missing body parts, brake band, throttle catch, fresh rim sprocket and a new set of seals....
Disconnect the fuel line and throttle link from the carb.
Remove the clutch cover, flywheel cover, and the plastic 'air conductor' plate that resides under the fw cover.
There are six hex head screws (two in front, and four at the rear) that thread through the sides of the case halves into the rubber AV isolators threaded into the tank. Three on each side. Remove them.
The tank will now wiggle/lever out from under the cases. All that's holding it in now is friction between the AV buffers and the inside edges of the case. You will have to guide the throttle arm out from the hole in the case.
Thanks , don't know where my manners are. It came off just as you said. It did start when I had the leaking fuel tank still on it but won't start now? I put a 268 P&C onto my 61, but using the 61's carb and muffler. I'll pull the carb after I dibble some fuel into the plug hole. Spark is there.
1 and 1 should get you close enough to get it running and tune. A non-functional throttle lock will indeed make it harder to start.
I'm thinking something's not right with the carb. Did you rebuild it? When putting the carb back together, be sure that the metering lever forked ends engage the grooved ends of the needle AND the metal 'tit' on the center of the diaphragm. If the forked end of the lever is resting on the tip of that 'tit' rather than being seated in the groove, it'll run rich like you describe.
Also, be sure that the gasket is on the carb body, followed by the metering diaphragm. Getting those in the wrong order will also make it run rich. On the pump side, put the diaphragm on first, followed by the gasket.
I used Farmertec (Huztl) P&C and also a new tank handle as mine had a leak. Only issue is the the new handle won't hold the start position on the trigger which makes the saw a bit harder to start.[/QUOTE]
I had the same issue with a farmertech handle that I got for a 268, in the end I hated the hard plastic so much that I just plastic welded up the old handle and changed the antivibe over.
I have found when tuning 266/268/272's that it is easy to go too lean on L and rich on H on initial settings, so I usually start a bit rich on L and turn in until I have nice throttle response on a warmed saw. For high I also start rich (which it sounds you are) and tune in at WOT in small increments until it is zinging and then out until it four strokes.
That is a good initial setting but you really need to tune them in wood, clean in cut at WOT but four stroking when you lift off. Obviously better to run a bit rich rather than lean. Older saws can be fiddly on carb settings so you need to be patient and don't overwork. I personally start with 1 1/4 -1 1/2 turns out both H and L on old huskies as I would prefer to know that I am starting rich and leaning out gradually- trick is really small increments ( 1/8 of a turn) with your adjustments and getting a feel for what is rich and what is lean.
So I too put the old tank back on with the trigger lock that works. Had to fabricate a new fuel line out of two different sized lines so it wouldn't leak where it comes out of the tank. Still struggling with the idle but ran out of time. Boy does this girl oil! Which setting on the adjuster is the least? 1 2 or 3
Speaking of More Oil! My 61 is now leaking oil. Seems to be coming from the bar pad. I have opened the tank to let off any pressure. Saw is inside no temp change. Changed the oil supply line and thought that had fixed it. Maybe these are just drippers with no fix?
The saw now starts and runs well, still need to get it into some wood.