Husky 357xp chain runs on idle. Fixed - oil pump drive gear wrecked...

[kourgath]

Hi All,

I've been a lurker for a while - ever since my Father-in-Law mentioned getting rid of his 357xp. This is a thanks to all previous posts and maybe might help someone else. I'm a new user but did spend a few years as a teen I helping out a tree surgeon. I'm only firewood working. I'm not a mechanic but have meddled with engines (built a few up) and also stuff on my Land Rover.

Anyway, first use by me and I couldn't get it to idle without chain moving so I cut down 3 trees that were dangerous but saw getting harder to start. Next time out I couldn't start it. Considered dodgy fuel as that was the only thing changed (and a little old but still runs in my Tanaka brushcutter). Aspen in to ensure not fuel. Started but only when chain-brake off and the chain turned at idle. If I put chain brake on the engine stopped immediately.

After much reading on here and a UK site (I'm in Cornwall, UK) everyone was clear on the clutch being the issue. Visual inspection and clutch OK, eventually removed using rope trick. Husky manual says if diameter less than 65mm then replace. Clutch measured 66.19mm. Clutch bell/drive quite dark (blued - overheated?). Oil pump drive plastic stuck on bottom of bell. Once removed the oil pump drive looked a bit mangled. I had ordered the full clutch kit so had new oil pump drive to compare it to thankfully otherwise I would not have thought hard enough!



[White one is the new genuine drive sprocket for comparison purposes.]

I think what was happening was that the badly fitted clutch bell/drive was tightened down on the oil drive without it being fully in. As the clutch tightened with use so it jammed it up and couldn't get the clearance so the clutch centre contacted the bell hard so direct drive. This explains why I was getting bad clutch symptoms but clutch seemed OK. So I stuck on all the new parts as I just need it working and I am not confident all the other bits are fine.

So thanks to everyone for the indirect help. Now I want to play with it! If I'm not careful I'll find an excuse for gasket delete, muffler mods etc. for the same reason that I have a 4.6 litre V8 in my 30+ year old Land Rover... because!

Cheers

 

[Westboastfaller]

What other bits are left? Bearing maybe? If the needle bearing are not individually rolling then it will race still or if you get threads spun on the shaft
It's got a new clutch, drum and worm gear & oiler right?
Make sure it dropped in the worm gear spline. Sometimes I will do it a couple times if the light is bad so I will recognize the hight difference.
The chain will likely move ahead if you pull the cord out a little if you tightened down on it. Anytime it does that then it's your clutch side.
Broken spring...chain is not in sprocket ect.

 

[kourgath]

Make sure it dropped in the worm gear spline. Sometimes I will do it a couple times if the light is bad so I will recognize the hight difference.
The chain will likely move ahead if you pull the cord out a little if you tightened down on it. Anytime it does that then it's your clutch side.
Broken spring...chain is not in sprocket ect.

Thanks - that's a good idea. This is the first time I've stripped a saw down to fix.

The saw is fixed as it was the oil pump drive. I thought I'd post this as I couldn't find this fault mentioned anywhere else and it worried me I was doing something wrong.

Cheers

 

[Westboastfaller]

Thanks - that's a good idea. This is the first time I've stripped a saw down to fix.

The saw is fixed as it was the oil pump drive. I thought I'd post this as I couldn't find this fault mentioned anywhere else and it worried me I was doing something wrong.

Cheers

I beg to differ. As to say someone is doing 'something' wrong. It wasn't the oil pump drive (worm gear) somebody had the clutch off twice and tightened it down twice between the spline. I have a good idea who it may be too...lol
So who had the clutch off before you? Just put it on the father in-law then we can move forward. You can see by the spline marks that it wasn't striped through. I could see the bottom melting and hardening then next time stripping out the top all the way. The top is not typically stripped. It's not really typical to strip the top either unless it's installed incorrectly or it turns into an ice block in cold environments.
Generally the bottom threads strip losing the ability to turn the oil pump gear. Human error is what I see. Maybe it was taken into a shop or loaned out? I honestly can't see how it would be possible otherwise imho.
Cheers friend
Welcome to the site.

 

[kourgath]

Thanks for the reply,
Father in law is non mechanical so much that he sent It to the shop for a clean. I got it and it started to play up. I took it apart and found the oil pump drive as you see it. So I don't think I messed it up

I admit I'm a novice with saw maintenance and only hope to learn of you guys.

My Christmas present is going to be proper training as I'm sure I am doing things wrong as my memory of teenage years is a bit hazy. Also I remember the guy I worked for was really dodgy on Monday mornings - once he dropped a tree on the bed of his pick up truck. Hungover...

Cheers