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Husky 359 firewood saw rework.

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by henry r, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    A Husqvarna 460 rancher

    60.2cc and rated at .3hp less than a new 359. Trying not to set my goals too high. :D
     
  2. Bob Hedgecutter

    Bob Hedgecutter ArboristSite Operative

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    Oh okay- sorry I misinterpreted you- you actually meant the poor mans 460, not the serious one! :ices_rofl:
    Carry on!
     
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  3. old guy

    old guy Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You don't need a degree wheel if you'r not changing the port timing, it's my understanding that the port timing on these is very good, just open the lower intakes to match the base gasket, delete the gasket and do a muff mod.
    I did 2 of these this year and one of em beats up on my stock 562.
     
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  4. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    Hmmm... Check compression...

    Now a smart man would have done a cold compression check and then a warm compression check when they got the saw...

    A sensible man would at least have thought to do one before they pulled the starting assembly to bits...

    My first job when i get home from work... finish cleaning the bits of starter and put it all back together...

    Old Guy, I'm not holding my breath but that much extra mumbo would make me very happy.
     
  5. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    I didn't get out to the shed last night... bit i did tonighy.


    Measurements written here so they don't get lost.

    Base gasket. Chewed up. .65 to .75mm

    Squish ex side. 1.315 mm +/-

    In side. 1.21 mm +/-

    Lh side 1.24. mm +/-

    Rh side. 1.25. mm +/-

    Min clearence metal to metal. .46 mm = .018"


    My technique would probably make a machinist/engineer cry but it seemed repeatable and gave me a set of numbers that all relate to each other.

    Is 18 thou" squish too tight?

    Will sealant give me a noticable addition to the clearence?

    Now i have a cylinder in my hands it is time to re-read all the porting threads and think through what comes next...
     
  6. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Toss that gasket. .018" will be just fine.
     
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  7. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    20191012_171516.jpg

    20191012_171558.jpg

    20191012_171818.jpg

    1 side better than it was.

    The cover is a bit messy but there is nothing i can do now.
     
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  8. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    The cyl is now cut on the other side as above... not looking like I'll get a chance to grind the 2nd cover tonight.

    I'm stuck with how to proceed on the ports.

    The transfers seem to look nice as is. They could be flared into the cylinder but Im thinking the flow will break off the sharp edges nicely (hopefully leaving a nice tumbling charge).
    The exception being the edge closest to the intake, but, in another 359? porting thread someone said something about wanting to direct the incoming charge towards/across the exhaust port.

    Thoughts?

    With the exhaust, should it be kept ar a max width if 32mm regardless of shape? ie. The cutting into the walls being no wider than 32mm whether a square edge or a bell mouth rolled into the port.

    What is the reasoning behind the cob loaf profile of exhaust ports?

    Thanks.
     
  9. Huskitoter

    Huskitoter ArboristSite Operative

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    Looks good. No help with porting.

    Does the intake boot have the metal clamp update? Caber ring?
     
  10. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    The metal clamp/boot is on order with some gaskets and bolts.

    Did a little more on the bottom end of the transfers, left the ports alone.

    Widened the exhaust a tiny amount and rolled the sides out. Totalling about 31mm wide so it is very tame compared to most.

    The pics will have to wait for daylight.

    Still haven't touched the muffler, i just can't decide which way to point the exhaust.

    I'm left handed but do maybe 1/3rd of my cuts right.
    I don't want the exhaust pointing straight at the timber or the bar/chain, nor tucked away under the plastic top cover.
    I really want a spark arrestor screen and prefer the look of a pipe over a deflector...
     
  11. Ronaldo

    Ronaldo Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Couple of 359's that I've done. I love the deep throaty sound of a pipe. No screens on these, however. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
     
  12. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    20191014_082705.jpg
    20191014_082625.jpg

    barely opened the port just rolled it in the edges. Thoughts?

    20191014_082729.jpg

    For my next stupid question...

    Gaskets for the transfer cover plates, what materiel to make them out of?

    Nice pipes Ronaldo, i wonder if i can fit something like that out the LHS.
    I have a couple of ideas on spark arrestor screens in pipes... hopefully one will work.
     
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  13. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    The shape looks good. Make sure you open it up on the outside too. Put your gasket up to the opening. Also, bevel the inside so the ring has a smooth transition over the port edges.
     
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  14. old guy

    old guy Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I used permatex ultra grey for those covers.
     
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  15. henry r

    henry r ArboristSite Lurker

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    Back again... real life got in the way there...

    The muffler now has a big hole in the baffle and a big hole in the top where the original outlet was.
    Sorry, no pictures as this is a family site and i don't want to give any children nightmares.
    In all honesty is is probably the crappiest bit of workmanship i have done in ages so i don't want to show it off.

    Oldguy, will the ultra grey be ok for sealing the cylinder to the block?

    Thanks.
     
  16. old guy

    old guy Addicted to ArboristSite

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    It works for me.
     
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