Husky 359 firewood saw rework.

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A Husqvarna 460 rancher

60.2cc and rated at .3hp less than a new 359. Trying not to set my goals too high. :D
 
You don't need a degree wheel if you'r not changing the port timing, it's my understanding that the port timing on these is very good, just open the lower intakes to match the base gasket, delete the gasket and do a muff mod.
I did 2 of these this year and one of em beats up on my stock 562.
 
Hmmm... Check compression...

Now a smart man would have done a cold compression check and then a warm compression check when they got the saw...

A sensible man would at least have thought to do one before they pulled the starting assembly to bits...

My first job when i get home from work... finish cleaning the bits of starter and put it all back together...

Old Guy, I'm not holding my breath but that much extra mumbo would make me very happy.
 
I didn't get out to the shed last night... bit i did tonighy.


Measurements written here so they don't get lost.

Base gasket. Chewed up. .65 to .75mm

Squish ex side. 1.315 mm +/-

In side. 1.21 mm +/-

Lh side 1.24. mm +/-

Rh side. 1.25. mm +/-

Min clearence metal to metal. .46 mm = .018"


My technique would probably make a machinist/engineer cry but it seemed repeatable and gave me a set of numbers that all relate to each other.

Is 18 thou" squish too tight?

Will sealant give me a noticable addition to the clearence?

Now i have a cylinder in my hands it is time to re-read all the porting threads and think through what comes next...
 
The cyl is now cut on the other side as above... not looking like I'll get a chance to grind the 2nd cover tonight.

I'm stuck with how to proceed on the ports.

The transfers seem to look nice as is. They could be flared into the cylinder but Im thinking the flow will break off the sharp edges nicely (hopefully leaving a nice tumbling charge).
The exception being the edge closest to the intake, but, in another 359? porting thread someone said something about wanting to direct the incoming charge towards/across the exhaust port.

Thoughts?

With the exhaust, should it be kept ar a max width if 32mm regardless of shape? ie. The cutting into the walls being no wider than 32mm whether a square edge or a bell mouth rolled into the port.

What is the reasoning behind the cob loaf profile of exhaust ports?

Thanks.
 
Looks good. No help with porting.

Does the intake boot have the metal clamp update? Caber ring?
 
The metal clamp/boot is on order with some gaskets and bolts.

Did a little more on the bottom end of the transfers, left the ports alone.

Widened the exhaust a tiny amount and rolled the sides out. Totalling about 31mm wide so it is very tame compared to most.

The pics will have to wait for daylight.

Still haven't touched the muffler, i just can't decide which way to point the exhaust.

I'm left handed but do maybe 1/3rd of my cuts right.
I don't want the exhaust pointing straight at the timber or the bar/chain, nor tucked away under the plastic top cover.
I really want a spark arrestor screen and prefer the look of a pipe over a deflector...
 
Couple of 359's that I've done. I love the deep throaty sound of a pipe. No screens on these, however.
56caa1d8407dc04a356282e0f2146c5f.jpg
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Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
 
20191014_082705.jpg
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barely opened the port just rolled it in the edges. Thoughts?

20191014_082729.jpg

For my next stupid question...

Gaskets for the transfer cover plates, what materiel to make them out of?

Nice pipes Ronaldo, i wonder if i can fit something like that out the LHS.
I have a couple of ideas on spark arrestor screens in pipes... hopefully one will work.
 
The shape looks good. Make sure you open it up on the outside too. Put your gasket up to the opening. Also, bevel the inside so the ring has a smooth transition over the port edges.
 
Back again... real life got in the way there...

The muffler now has a big hole in the baffle and a big hole in the top where the original outlet was.
Sorry, no pictures as this is a family site and i don't want to give any children nightmares.
In all honesty is is probably the crappiest bit of workmanship i have done in ages so i don't want to show it off.

Oldguy, will the ultra grey be ok for sealing the cylinder to the block?

Thanks.
 
Back again... real life got in the way there...

The muffler now has a big hole in the baffle and a big hole in the top where the original outlet was.
Sorry, no pictures as this is a family site and i don't want to give any children nightmares.
In all honesty is is probably the crappiest bit of workmanship i have done in ages so i don't want to show it off.

Oldguy, will the ultra grey be ok for sealing the cylinder to the block?

Thanks.
It works for me.
 
:(

I've been distracted with house jobs.

It is all cleaned up bar the cylinder and muffler, all the sub assemblies are back together, again bar the cylinder.

Muffler, top cover and handle trial fit done. The muffler is marked with clearances to help work out how the exhaust stub will sit.
Rough calculations of muffler exhaust hole size done...

I'm at the "staring at the muffler running through options to try to find one that fits all my criteria" stage.

I was hoping to use it this sunday (and last sunday), tonight will be the make or break point for that.

Pics from sun afternoon before the bits started going back on.

20191020_175700.jpg 20191020_175647.jpg

The flywheel nut is back on the right way round waiting to be torqued.

These pin holes in the cyl are a worry but there is nothing i can do now.

20191024_134835.jpg


Btw, should i oil the clutch bearing with bar oil or 2 stroke oil?

Thanks
Henry.
 
Cylinder base below transfers looks good. Are they even width on both sides? Hard to tell in pic. Some take it all the way out and case match the base gasket. I went somewhere between yours and the gasket on a 350 that runs strong.

I use grease on the drum bearing.
 
"I'm left handed but do maybe about a third of my cuts right"

Trigger in the right hand, front bar in the left. Thumbs fully engaged. That's how it's done. It is like a can opener. It is designed to be held one way only.

Safety Nazi out...

And good luck with the saw!!
 

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