husky 395 assembly process - carb install?

[half_full]

Hi All, I blame all of you for my NEED to have a 395 to run a 36" bar that will only be used once a year. :bang:

Anyway, just got the remainder of my parts yesterday. I'm building from two parts saws and a bunch of new parts.

How does the carb and air box fit in best? Should I put the entire assembly on the cylinder and then install cylinder?
It appears that the carb has to be screwed together with all intake components prior to being inserted into the air box.

Anything else I might run into? I've never had the opportunity to see a fully assembled 395 so I'm building this basket of parts into a saw based on the IPL, WSM and pics I find online.

I've done case split with new crank bearings, crank seals, carb kit, new Meteor piston/rings in OEM cylinder.
I used new Husky piston pin clips in the Meteor piston. Is this OK? They both mic'd identical numbers.

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

On that saw mounting the carb and intake to the cylinder, then dropping
the thing onto the crankcase is the way to go.

 

[srcarr52]

Put the carb shelf then the air inject tube on the case before putting the cylinder with intake attached on. Carb and filter neck can go on after but getting the intake on with the cylinder when installed is a chore.

 

[half_full]

Thanks for the replies. I would not have figured the air inject tube until it was time for the flywheel. That woulda set me back a few beers.

 

[half_full]

one more quick question. I have the saw together and running. The IPL shows no carb gaskets used. Is this correct?
The first intake tube connects to the cylinder via clamp, the carb is then bolted to the rubber with the last intake tube that supports the air filter. Really, no gaskets here? There were two that came with the crankcase gasket kit. Don't use them?

 

[srcarr52]

one more quick question. I have the saw together and running. The IPL shows no carb gaskets used. Is this correct?
The first intake tube connects to the cylinder via clamp, the carb is then bolted to the rubber with the last intake tube that supports the air filter. Really, no gaskets here? There were two that came with the crankcase gasket kit. Don't use them?

Nope, the rubber intake seals it's self against the carb. Those gaskets are for a 394 plastic intake manifold.

 

[Diesel Jay]

Put the carb shelf then the air inject tube on the case before putting the cylinder with intake attached on. Carb and filter neck can go on after but getting the intake on with the cylinder when installed is a chore.

I know this is an old post, but hey, you never know!

I have to replace a completely cracked "airbox" to which the carb mounts on a 395XP. The plastic on one of the anti-vibe two rubber-mounts broke clean off and I need to replace the fuel line and that's a lot easier with the airbox off. I've got the carb and controls out, and all bolts removed, but I can't figure out how to get the rubber intake off the cylinder. I know that sounds silly, but the baffle/divider between the airbus and the cylinder needs to come up, to be removed, but it seems you can't do that until you pull the boot off the cylinder in a motion towards the back of the saw and that boot runs through the divider. I can't seem to make all of that go up and back at the same time, and I'm hesitant to be too forceful with any of it.

Is there some kind of trick to this? I'd rather not remove the cylinder as I don't have a ring compressor for a chainsaw and really don't want to scratch anything up or also have to order a new gasket. Thanks in advance.

 

[huskihl]

I know this is an old post, but hey, you never know!

I have to replace a completely cracked "airbox" to which the carb mounts on a 395XP. The plastic on one of the anti-vibe two rubber-mounts broke clean off and I need to replace the fuel line and that's a lot easier with the airbox off. I've got the carb and controls out, and all bolts removed, but I can't figure out how to get the rubber intake off the cylinder. I know that sounds silly, but the baffle/divider between the airbus and the cylinder needs to come up, to be removed, but it seems you can't do that until you pull the boot off the cylinder in a motion towards the back of the saw and that boot runs through the divider. I can't seem to make all of that go up and back at the same time, and I'm hesitant to be too forceful with any of it.

Is there some kind of trick to this? I'd rather not remove the cylinder as I don't have a ring compressor for a chainsaw and really don't want to scratch anything up or also have to order a new gasket. Thanks in advance.

I don’t believe the boot will come off without removing the cylinder first.

 

[srcarr52]

I know this is an old post, but hey, you never know!

I have to replace a completely cracked "airbox" to which the carb mounts on a 395XP. The plastic on one of the anti-vibe two rubber-mounts broke clean off and I need to replace the fuel line and that's a lot easier with the airbox off. I've got the carb and controls out, and all bolts removed, but I can't figure out how to get the rubber intake off the cylinder. I know that sounds silly, but the baffle/divider between the airbus and the cylinder needs to come up, to be removed, but it seems you can't do that until you pull the boot off the cylinder in a motion towards the back of the saw and that boot runs through the divider. I can't seem to make all of that go up and back at the same time, and I'm hesitant to be too forceful with any of it.

Is there some kind of trick to this? I'd rather not remove the cylinder as I don't have a ring compressor for a chainsaw and really don't want to scratch anything up or also have to order a new gasket. Thanks in advance.

You don't need a ring compressor. You can either lift the cylinder just enough to remove the boot or use a small screw driver to work the rings in as you set the cylinder back over the piston. There is a good chamfer at the bottom of the cylinder so it's not that hard to get the exhaust side of the ring in first and then work around to the intake side pushing it in with a small flat head screwdriver.