Husqvarna 154SE tip

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Redgap

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
112
Reaction score
103
Location
Minnesota and Idaho
Recently bought a Husky 154SE, and the starter cord didn’t want to retract well. Found that it would retract as soon as I started to loosen up the recoil housing bolts, and figured out that the knot on the cord was rubbing on the starter pawls, but couldn’t figure out how to solve the problem. Then...I stumbled across a service bulletin for this issue, and the short version is: If a starter cord with knot is used, starter pawl screws with lower heads (501819902, now superseded to 501819901...M5x14’s) must be used. Or the knot can be warmed up and flattened.
 
Recently bought a Husky 154SE, and the starter cord didn’t want to retract well. Found that it would retract as soon as I started to loosen up the recoil housing bolts, and figured out that the knot on the cord was rubbing on the starter pawls, but couldn’t figure out how to solve the problem. Then...I stumbled across a service bulletin for this issue, and the short version is: If a starter cord with knot is used, starter pawl screws with lower heads (501819902, now superseded to 501819901...M5x14’s) must be used. Or the knot can be warmed up and flattened.
 
Well flattening the knot with my soldering gun didn’t work...twice. So off to the hardware store soon to look for a couple button head M5x14 bolts.

Meanwhile dealing with no chain brake handle, I discovered that the clutch cover on my Husky 257 will fit...with maybe a minor alteration...so that helps open up the market for me to find a used cover and brake handle, which might be cheaper than buying the parts to rebuild/restore the brake.
 
Well flattening the knot with my soldering gun didn’t work...twice. So off to the hardware store soon to look for a couple button head M5x14 bolts.

Meanwhile dealing with no chain brake handle, I discovered that the clutch cover on my Husky 257 will fit...with maybe a minor alteration...so that helps open up the market for me to find a used cover and brake handle, which might be cheaper than buying the parts to rebuild/restore the brake.
You can also buy an aftermarket Husqvarna 55 chain brake assembly and trim off the rear section that is squared off. In addition you need to trim the rear chip guard to create clearance as the 154/254/257/261/262 family of saws has a molded lip that protrudes from the case.

Where abouts in MN are you?
 
You can also buy an aftermarket Husqvarna 55 chain brake assembly and trim off the rear section that is squared off. In addition you need to trim the rear chip guard to create clearance as the 154/254/257/261/262 family of saws has a molded lip that protrudes from the case.

Where abouts in MN are you?
Got some new pawl bolts with the flatter heads, but haven’t installed yet. Also picked up a couple Husky 55 carcasses so may have an optional donor there with minor mods. Btw also found the clutch cover on my 257, with those mods, would fit...but the 257 isn’t a donor saw.

I’m in Delano. Thanks for the advice!
 
I believe brake handle off of a 55 will work on theses saws.
 
Mine needed a new fuel line, I’ll hopefully be up and running tonight.
Among other issues, mine had the fuel line pulled up to where the filter was up against the top of the tank. Just too busy with other projects to work on it more lately.
 
Although I'm a regular browser of the forum, I just registered to say thanks to the arboristsite.com community....I can't believe that a current-year (2020) post has helped me to fix this recoil problem on my 30+ year old 154 SE. It's been a great help with the summer storms, and even better to put it back into regular use.
 
Although I'm a regular browser of the forum, I just registered to say thanks to the arboristsite.com community....I can't believe that a current-year (2020) post has helped me to fix this recoil problem on my 30+ year old 154 SE. It's been a great help with the summer storms, and even better to put it back into regular use.
Great!! Meanwhile my 154 still won't start, my 66 still won't oil, my frankenstein 55 isn't all put together, and I think I'll throw a new ring in my weak 257. Oh well, priorities, priorities....
 
Yahoo!! The 154 wasn’t getting gas to the cylinder, and the gas line and filter weren’t plugged, but I was putting off tearing the carb apart. So just for the heck of it, I attached a short rubber nozzle to the intake nipple on the carb, propped the saw up on its bar end, and squirted WD40 into the inlet and let it soak overnight. And today it fired tight up!! But the on/off switch wouldn’t work so I shut it down with the choke, and might have to swap out a switch from a donor carcass. And I still need to build up a chainbrake from a 55 carcass too. But rockn n rolln.
 
the factory instructions for replacing the starter and lo and behold - there was not supposed to be a knot on this style. Instead, the rope is pulled up through the hole, wrapped around the snout of the pulley and tucked back under itself. Several suggested I augment this with a melted blob on the end
I think this is sawtroll from another site.

, I ran into the same problem with my saw,, its hard get the rope to stay under itself,
 
the factory instructions for replacing the starter and lo and behold - there was not supposed to be a knot on this style. Instead, the rope is pulled up through the hole, wrapped around the snout of the pulley and tucked back under itself. Several suggested I augment this with a melted blob on the end
I think this is sawtroll from another site.

, I ran into the same problem with my saw,, its hard get the rope to stay under itself,
Tried that, didn’t work. New lower profile pawl bolts fixed the problem for a couple bucks. Don’t fight it.
 
Found the kill switch problem I think. Someone sometime replaced the 2 wire switch with a 1 wire switch, and didn’t drill a hole in the case and put a screw thru the grounding tab. So I did, should work now.
 
Back
Top