Husqvarna 162se

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Treenado

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Hello everyone!!
couple weekends ago i picked up a 162se in a local sale. the woman said it had been sitting in the barn underneath odds and ends for years. she said Her husband was unable to start it and would sell it as junk if i was interested.

it was in rough shape, looked as if someone dropped it in a tar pit. every nook and cranny had saw dust gunk caked up on it. long story short and minus the various frustrations, i was able to get it running again. now that it’s in running condition was thinking on giving it a restore.. is it worth it? seems to run really great for the condition it was left in.

wondering if anyone else has recently restored any old husqvarna’s and know of a “rattle can” color match. also i’m in search of a recoil cover, the one that’s on it isn’t “perfect” per say. oh and is there anyway to identify the year it was made? here’s a picture:
Btw this is my 2nd post so take it easy on me!
 

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Early 162 had metal recoil housing later had flimsy plastic rewind cover.Early 162 the top cover had two screws on the back edge and one in the center towards the muffler.I have both models one is 1977 the other I bought brand new in Nov of 79.They built the 162 until they came out with the 266.The 162 and Jonsereds 70 and 66 were the most popular saws with the bush whackers here in northwestern ontario cutting pulpwood in the seventies. In the eighties it was the 266 and to a lesser degree the jonsereds 670 and Partner P70. In the nineties cut and skid was pretty well finished but there are still cutters I know who still use those same saws.Stihl was also used with the 08 in the sixties and seventies the 041 o31 o38 etc later.
Kash
 
You should be able to source NOS or good used recoils on Ebay. The plastic will clean up with 4/0 steel wool, a light lube/solvent and plastic polish to a great or lesser extent. I don't know about a spray can paint job. Sometimes the battle scars are best left alone.
 
A couple questions is the recoil housing metal or plastic is there a screw in the center to hold the top cover down or are three screws along the sides of the top cover?
Kash
the recoil housing is metal, the top cover has a center top screw/nut that tightens down on cylinder and two side screws.
 
You should be able to source NOS or good used recoils on Ebay. The plastic will clean up with 4/0 steel wool, a light lube/solvent and plastic polish to a great or lesser extent. I don't know about a spray can paint job. Sometimes the battle scars are best left alone.
i’ve been seeing some recoil housings on ebay, the only problem is they all have had 4 screws/look plastic and the one i have is only 3 screws/metal. will a 4 screw pattern fit mine?
 
Early 162 had metal recoil housing later had flimsy plastic rewind cover.Early 162 the top cover had two screws on the back edge and one in the center towards the muffler.I have both models one is 1977 the other I bought brand new in Nov of 79.They built the 162 until they came out with the 266.The 162 and Jonsereds 70 and 66 were the most popular saws with the bush whackers here in northwestern ontario cutting pulpwood in the seventies. In the eighties it was the 266 and to a lesser degree the jonsereds 670 and Partner P70. In the nineties cut and skid was pretty well finished but there are still cutters I know who still use those same saws.Stihl was also used with the 08 in the sixties and seventies the 041 o31 o38 etc later.
Kash
I have a 670 champ, when i was tearing into the 162, i noticed a lot of similarities of design and layout.
 
Here’s some more pictures
 

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Hmm, tell my friend that a chainbrake would’ve just gotten in the way, when his saw kicked back into the side of his neck. I’m just sayin’.
true story? or you just pulling my leg? i was being sarcastic btw. if that is a true story, that’s F**ked up!!!
 
My 1977 doesn't have chain brake 1979 does.Yours is an early one 76to77.Are you sure it only has 3 screws look for one behind pull cord handle. The Jonsereds 630 is pretty well the same saw I used my 162 cutting pulp and did not have any correct police spying on me so I used the Jonsereds 630 or 670 recoil covering.It is much stronger than the Husky one.For cutting in smaller wood and limbing say up to 12 inch I like it better than the 266 in the smaller wood there is very little difference in speed.the 162 is lighter and a more nimble balanced saw.They are both excellent saws.
Kash
 
Back in the eighties I was sitting in the bar after a day of cutting .My old boyhood friend came in with another guy in tow. Doug introduced me to the young guy he was about my age 25.The left side of his face from his hair line to his jaw had a wide healed trench with zipper marks from the stitches when he talked his mouth was twisted.That guy was one of the most upbeat guys I ever met he had numerous corrective surgeries and never let it get him down .
When I cut I often think of him and tighten my grip on the saw and watch the bar nose a bit more.
I do not know if his saw had a chain brake but they were the law by then.
Kash
 
Back in the eighties I was sitting in the bar after a day of cutting .My old boyhood friend came in with another guy in tow. Doug introduced me to the young guy he was about my age 25.The left side of his face from his hair line to his jaw had a wide healed trench with zipper marks from the stitches when he talked his mouth was twisted.That guy was one of the most upbeat guys I ever met he had numerous corrective surgeries and never let it get him down .
When I cut I often think of him and tighten my grip on the saw and watch the bar nose a bit more.
I do not know if his saw had a chain brake but they were the law by then.
Kash
I know one thing, i definitely do not want to take a chainsaw to the face or neck... hell if a chainsaw got away from you that drastic, i’m wondering if having a manual type chain break would even save such a catastrophe.. sounds like a high stump gone wrong... i have a 670 champ after few hrs of running it the plastic flag gets all melty wonky. i don’t put much faith in it either..
 

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