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Husqvarna 257 suddenly won't start

Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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Hello all.

Was running my old (1997) Husqvarna 257 and it was bogging down a bit. So ran it WOT not in the wood and messed with the H carb adjustment. I let it get pretty lean and it was screaming for maybe five seconds and then backed it down. It smoked a tiny bit. I shouldn't have let it go that long but the screwdriver came out for a second. Got it back to a good running spot and shut it down for a rest. Now the darn thing won't start at all after many attempts.
- Compression is good at 155.
- I made sure it's not flooded by pulling the plug and dumping it out (and it was in fact wet inside since I tried a long time to get it started and probably flooded it).
- I looked at the ring and piston through the muffler port to make sure I didn't burn up anything and it's shiny and not scored at all.

I cant figure it out. Should I just give it a day to settle down? This one has the decompression valve, which I have tried on and off to get it started. Nothing works.

Thanks in advance
 
rupedoggy

rupedoggy

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I think it is flooded. Try a start without choke and wide open throttle. Then check the plug again. Still wet? Dry it off and check for spark by putting it against the cylinder and pulling briskly in a dark place. Got spark? dry the plug as many times as it takes. If it starts hold wide open until it cleans out. Mike
 
Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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Man, that did it! pulling starter with WOT. Took some time put it finally came around. Thank you. Couple more greenhorn question please for anyone who doesn't mind entertaining them.

1) Is it likely that running it for five seconds pretty lean, not crazy, but maybe a 1/4 turn too far (but it was up there pretty high) have damaged anything? I was running no ethanol 50:1 Husky fuel for the first time ever just to give it some good stuff. As opposed to the 33:1 ethanol fuel I often use. Figured I'd just run the 50:1 out of the can. The saw hadn't been run very hard before I ran it too lean. And again, muffler side look at the piston looked fine.
2) Would gas flooding in the cylinder affect compression? It was around 160 (cold) before my little lean running mishap. When I tested it after it woulnd't run, it was around 150 (hot). Does flooding lower compression?

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate your expertise.
Keith
 
Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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Ya I wasn't sure about the hot vs cold in my case. My cold test was really cold, like I hadn't run it in a month so I figured no left behind oil in the chamber to help up the compression when cold (but it was still 160). I guess with all that was in play, I would have expected the hot to be higher since fluids would be in the chamber. But flooded was perhaps a different issue. Splitting hairs I know. Was just curious. Thanks for confirming hot is the major issue to lower it.

I did look at the cylinder on the muffler side. Looks fine.
 
Sam R

Sam R

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I think judicious use of unloaded WOT is not bad for the saw, in fact a little extra heat probably helps keep excess carbon off it. if your piston didn't get burned up, cylinder looks okay through exhaust port - I'd say it's fine.
 
Wood Doctor

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You guys are going to love this. I flooded my 257 the other day. It was a really simple process. I pulled it on choke 10 times with the ignition switch off. After I stopped yelling cuss words at myself I simply pulled it three more times with the ignition switch on and not choked, and it started right up. For some reason, the 257 was nice enough not to cuss at me also, but it may have laughed at me. It's a forgiving saw.
 
Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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You guys are going to love this. I flooded my 257 the other day. It was a really simple process. I pulled it on choke 10 times with the ignition switch off. After I stopped yelling cuss words at myself I simply pulled it three more times with the ignition switch on and not choked, and it started right up. For some reason, the 257 was nice enough not to cuss at me also, but it may have laughed at me. It's a forgiving saw.
LOL. I have done the exact same thing. The kill switches on these are confusing looking. The "stop" is on the left side of hump on the switch, which makes you think you need to push it to the left (i.e. toward the stop symbol), but in fact there's an arrow on the other side of the hump that means go the other direction to stop it. I took it as stop to the left means stop, and arrow to the right means go. Nope. I've yanked on this saw for ten minutes when I first got it not knowing why it wouldn't start. So funny to hear someone did the same thing. I feel better. Does the pic of mine show below?

 
Colt Marlington

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Done that with a couple of saws with switch in a new to me location.
Once on a 372 and once on an echo with a toggle switch.
Probably some other stuff that I have blocked from memory.
 
Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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Well I’m still nervous I burned it somehow with that little stunt. Running it very lean for five seconds not in wood. Ya the cylinder looks good but I’m pissed at myself for doing it. I guess if I burned it up, the compression would have gone waaay down, no?

Maybe my saving grace is that it wasn't in wood, so wouldn't have gotten that hot (relatively speaking).
 
Huskybill

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Kill switches,
I picked up a mint 268xp, like new mint, I noticed the kill switch had three detents. The tip of the red lever was broken off. If you went from off to the first detention she a no run. If you pushed the switch one more detent she runs a great.

The only two times a Husqvarna saw wouldn’t start was one I bought from a pawn shop for $225, the owner told me he used it before he put it in the pawn shop. It was flooded so bad I took the plug out, turned the saw upside down and pulled the starter rope, out with the bad gas, in with the clean air. After that fresh gas and I had a running 575xp on my hands. I bartered it for a mag base but drill setup. I already had a new 575xp.

Second with this new gas ate the fuel line in my 240sg. A new line and filter and a pit stop at the dealer she was running strong in 15 minutes.

Note, always checkout pawnshops for chainsaws.
 
Sam R

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Well I’m still nervous I burned it somehow with that little stunt. Running it very lean for five seconds not in wood. Ya the cylinder looks good but I’m pissed at myself for doing it. I guess if I burned it up, the compression would have gone waaay down, no?

Maybe my saving grace is that it wasn't in wood, so wouldn't have gotten that hot (relatively speaking).
Did you have a tach on it, what was it revving up to?
 
Keithandstef

Keithandstef

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Did you have a tach on it, what was it revving up to?
No tach. Just went high. Higher than I would like, maybe a quarter to half turn to the right. Got pretty lean for about five seconds. But again, not in wood and the saw wasn't that hot to begin with. I'm going to check the compression again tomorrow when I'm back home. Hopefully it's up near 160 like the previous cold test.
 
Wood Doctor

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LOL. I have done the exact same thing. The kill switches on these are confusing looking. The "stop" is on the left side of hump on the switch, which makes you think you need to push it to the left (i.e. toward the stop symbol), but in fact there's an arrow on the other side of the hump that means go the other direction to stop it. I took it as stop to the left means stop, and arrow to the right means go. Nope. I've yanked on this saw for ten minutes when I first got it not knowing why it wouldn't start. So funny to hear someone did the same thing. I feel better. Does the pic of mine show below?

Now, to make things even more confusing, Keith, the kill switch on my Makita/Dolmar 6401 saw operates in exactly the opposite direction. Last year I flooded it the same way.
 
cuinrearview

cuinrearview

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tenor (1).gif
I mess with a lot of different brands of saws. Stihls and small Dolmars switch in opposite directions. I've yet to have a switch get the best of me, regardless of orientation.
 
Sam R

Sam R

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View attachment 737108
I mess with a lot of different brands of saws. Stihls and small Dolmars switch in opposite directions. I've yet to have a switch get the best of me, regardless of orientation.
Ha ha, that's funny. And yes, I do too - I just think I/O was FINE for about all of human history before different makes started coming up with new supposedly idiot proof designs. Speaking of Husqvarna Poulan, the 4218 (And prob others) series of saws with the automatic ignition switch when you pull the choke lever, was a pretty clever design. Think that postdates the STOP switch, though...
 
cuinrearview

cuinrearview

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Ha ha, that's funny. And yes, I do too - I just think I/O was FINE for about all of human history before different makes started coming up with new supposedly idiot proof designs. Speaking of Husqvarna Poulan, the 4218 (And prob others) series of saws with the automatic ignition switch when you pull the choke lever, was a pretty clever design. Think that postdates the STOP switch, though...
I think the small three series Huskies did it before the poulan pro did. It's a pretty foolproof design. The four and five series Husky multi-switch took a double take at first. They constantly try to re-invent the wheel. They all get the job done I guess.
 
Sam R

Sam R

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Honestly it's a great design. I like the Stihl 'multi-function' lever just fine. But not having to squeeze the trigger to set it really is the definition of fool proof.
 
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