Husqvarna 262xp

Hello guys, i was so lucky today to get a 262xp in decent shape shipped over to me for only 90 euro's! And thats not all. The saw has no decomp and a HD 87 carb i tought these saws were the better models (correct me if im wrong).
So the saw had just about 150psi compression, my question is want a little more but how can i easily measure the squish? And will i be able to start the saw with more compression because i already feel it plopping hard at tdc. Im also thinking of just put a new ring on the piston or a new piston. What are your thoughts about improvements i am not realy a pro in porting and i dont want to ruin this beauty so that is not realy an option.

 

A new ring or new piston and ring should bring the compression up. Being how old these saws are I’d do the crankbearings and crankseals too. A piston and ring then you have a good lifetime saw.

 

You will only gain compression from new parts if the old ones are worn. There are quite a few threads out there on measuring squish using solder. Some(myself included) have done it without even pulling the jug.

 

The HD87 carb is only “better” if you are trying to wring every last cent out when porting it. Otherwise it makes little difference.

Congrats and YOU SUCK!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

My 257 is a head slapper with no base gasket.
150 comp new piston and ring.

 

Why a new piston? Is it scored, excessive wear? 262's are tight on squish, gasket is needed or at least a coke can one. Beer can will work.

 

The early non decomp, hda87 saws ran a little better then the later decomp models due to better timing numbers, when porting one, I prefer the Mahle decomp cylinder, they grind better then the KS IMO. The 87 can gain power but they are notorious for having to be tuned all the time, where as the 120/144 is set and forget. I guess it's all perspective, either way you snagged a great saw, congrats!

 

Well i i pulled the cilinder a few minute ago and tomorrow i wil measure the solder at work (caliper), p/care in good shape little scoring at intake side below compression area, when i drop the piston without ring and hold my finger on the spark plug hole it sinks quite slow someone once told me that is a way to chek the p/c.
Right now there is probably a 1mm base gasket i have 0.4mm just going to try that and see how it ends up. Im going to order some new gaskets for intske etc. And a new ring hope it will be here soon to try out. Excuse me for bad English if so

 

You want a squish measurement of .018-.022, easy to check, put a little dab of grease on each side of the top of the piston and cut 2 pieces of solder a few mm long and re install the cylinder with the piston at BDC, then rotate the flywheel by hand to TDC and remove cylinder and measure the solder.

 

This is what i did, tomorrow i am gonna measure the solder, and the parts are ordered so i hope this week the stuff will be ready.

 

So this is the squish in inches, if i put a 0.4 mm gasket on the saw it will be perfect, 0.047 - 0.023= 0.24 a little high but i think this will do the job today going to sandblast the muffler and maby a little mod, i did my uncles 262 a muffler mod and it helped realy

 

What size solder did you use? It matters, as solder much thicker than the measure you are getting will be inaccurate. It will spring back and give you a higher than true reading.

IIRC, most 262XP’s are head slappers without the gasket. Could be wrong here. Will the engine rotate over with the cylinder installed without the gasket?

What elevation are you at? I’m around 250 feet ASL and a stock good pistoned 262 comes in around 155 psi for me. It will get lower the higher your elevation is.

You have a great saw there. The non-decomp KS jugs don’t need much work. Open the muffler under the deflector and open the deflector a bit. Tighten up squish, and advance the timing half the key. You’ll be happy.

 

Exactly what i wanted to do, solder is 0.060 not very thick. Also a little bot of carbon inside but that is very little.
My muffler is the type with a pipe in the front, any options to open these up? Or just drill a extra hole inside the muffler and under the original exhaust pipe? Becauss this is what i did before and it helped as far as i know a bit. I will try a few things when the new ring comes and play with the squish to get it as i want.
What is the most easy way to change the timing? Just grind the key? Or leave the key away?
P.s. out here there are hd87 carbs new available, just as almost every oem part for a 262. How is this where you guys live?

 

Grind out half the key to make the flywheel rotate counterclockwise as u look at it. Stamp the key center on the face first, in case you mess up.

No idea on the muffler.

If your squish is correct, aluminum roof flashing is .010 and should get u to 17 which is fine with good oil.

No 87 carbs available. I actually convert 199's to 87 specs. The rebuild kits should be the same for all the HDA carbs.

 

Here's a 261 I converted over to full 262 specs inc 3 shoe clutch and 199 carb conversion.

Its fully ported with 210 psi.



These are the first runs. They take longer than most to break in. I believe is the cast piston ring they use.

 

Wow that one runs nice
I dont know what kind of ring i ordered just a oem and i am curius what compression i get.

 

Hey Al,
You feel like it’s worth converting a 199 over instead of using the 120 if you can’t get an 87?

How would you rate the converted 199 to an 87?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

100% in a ported saw. Witnessed difference myself.

The 199 runs better with equal performance to the 87.

 

How much do you think adding finger ports helps?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

There is no key. There's an alignment bulge cast into the flywheel taper.