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Husqvarna 268 XP (Special) restoration
- Thread starter mikey78
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mikey78
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At the moment I'm waiting for some replacement parts ...
In the meantime I wanna show you the bar and make some questions !!!
This is the bar and .... to me it does not look in very good conditions
The point (and also the body) has been filed ... Why does one should file the bar ?
Also what is the big hole for ?
I see many numbers ... can someone explain to me what they mean?
Is there any reason to buy an husqvarna bar instead of an aftermarket (Oregon?) replacement ?
What bar lenght do you suggest for this Husky ?
In the meantime I wanna show you the bar and make some questions !!!
This is the bar and .... to me it does not look in very good conditions
The point (and also the body) has been filed ... Why does one should file the bar ?
Also what is the big hole for ?
I see many numbers ... can someone explain to me what they mean?
Is there any reason to buy an husqvarna bar instead of an aftermarket (Oregon?) replacement ?
What bar lenght do you suggest for this Husky ?
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That bar doesn't look to bad to me. Bars need to be squared and dressed from time to time. Bar edges don't wear evenly and they need to both be perpendicular to the bar sides and aligned with other in order for the saw to cut straight. Also this wear will cause a "wire edge" on the outside of the bar....this must be filed/ground away.
Those numbers on the bar tell us that it is a 20" long bar (useable length), 0.058" gauge, 3/8" chain pitch, and requires a chain length of 72 drive links.
And yes you may purchase any number of different brand bars and different lengths but you would need to stay with a 3/8" pitch in the correct bar mount or you would also have to change you drive sprocket as well to match.
Those numbers on the bar tell us that it is a 20" long bar (useable length), 0.058" gauge, 3/8" chain pitch, and requires a chain length of 72 drive links.
And yes you may purchase any number of different brand bars and different lengths but you would need to stay with a 3/8" pitch in the correct bar mount or you would also have to change you drive sprocket as well to match.
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
Thankyou again and again and again Cantdog 
,
you always get the point . . .
Your answers are very accurate so that I don't have to keep scratching my head
Lot of knowledge in this forum, I'm running the same discussion on an italian forum
and have to say that, at least in this case, knowledge is flowing from USA to Italy !!!
Thankyou again !!!
,you always get the point . . .
Your answers are very accurate so that I don't have to keep scratching my head
Lot of knowledge in this forum, I'm running the same discussion on an italian forum
and have to say that, at least in this case, knowledge is flowing from USA to Italy !!!
Thankyou again !!!
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello guys ,
I did not disappear ... I'm still waiting for some replacement parts
In the meantime I've found an interesting video about restoring motorcycle plastics :
Do you think it's suitable for chainsaw platics ?
Some very small areas on my chainsaw could benefit from a light buffing with that polishing wheel !!!
Let me know what you think
,I did not disappear ... I'm still waiting for some replacement parts
In the meantime I've found an interesting video about restoring motorcycle plastics :
Do you think it's suitable for chainsaw platics ?
Some very small areas on my chainsaw could benefit from a light buffing with that polishing wheel !!!
Let me know what you think
Hello guys
I did not disappear ... I'm still waiting for some replacement parts
In the meantime I've found an interesting video about restoring motorcycle plastics :
Do you think it's suitable for chainsaw platics ?
Some very small areas on my chainsaw could benefit from a light buffing with that polishing wheel !!!
Let me know what you think
It is always hard to know how things will react. The Husky plastics are always a challenge as the various pieces on the same saw are made from different plastics hence the reason why one part of the saw turns white, another turns brown, and other parts retain a decent color.
The best way is to try it out on a piece that you can afford to throw away (or use it "ugly").
nighthunter
addicted to arboristsite
I've seen a good job done on a motorbike fairing where it was faded and he lightly shaved it with a Stanley knife blade to remove the faded face off the plastic. I be careful if I was going to attempt it
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just started reading this thread now.
The bar looks to have a burr/wire edge along the bottom.
The nose picture has a burr on the top and bottom.
The picture of the number markings shows a burr on the bottom.
For what its worth, I like the oil tank vent in the filler cap, somewhat better.
Putting them behind the guide bar, just seems to be a blockage problem waiting to occur.
I assume that it's done to route any over flow oil to the bar & chain.
The bar looks to have a burr/wire edge along the bottom.
The nose picture has a burr on the top and bottom.
The picture of the number markings shows a burr on the bottom.
For what its worth, I like the oil tank vent in the filler cap, somewhat better.
Putting them behind the guide bar, just seems to be a blockage problem waiting to occur.
I assume that it's done to route any over flow oil to the bar & chain.
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
Here we go ....
It took me a while but, at the end, I managed to find what i needed for restoring the saw !!!
I will update the thread as soon as I get the different jobs done !!!
It took me a while but, at the end, I managed to find what i needed for restoring the saw !!!
I will update the thread as soon as I get the different jobs done !!!
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looking good [emoji106][emoji106]
Erik
Erik
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just read through this thread, NICE job @mikey. Skipped along at time through it but did you ever obtain a IPL or work shop manual for this saw? Heres a broad one below if not that covers multiple. I thought I had 268 alone but Im sure you either got it already or someone will now upload. If not there is always the "beg for manuals" thread where everyone just shares ipls and manuals View attachment husqvarna workshop manual chainsaws.pdf
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
Thankyou very much for your help . . .
I already have the husqvarna workshop manual (the broad one )
but at the moment it didn't help much, it is so messy : i.e. I could not find informations/directions on replacing the oil tank vent . . .
Luckily some forum members helped more than the manual !!!
I know this restoration is taking me ages but with a 5 months old daughter the chainsaw can wait !!!!
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
Keep us posted. Looks like your fussy with your work. Do you plan to rebuild to motor as well?
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
" . . . fussy" ??? You see 10% of my "fussyness" 
At the moment the saw is performing wonderfully, so I won't touch the engine !!!
At the moment the saw is performing wonderfully, so I won't touch the engine !!!
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
5 month old.daughter....it seams like.yesterday that my daughter was 5 months old. Now I'm college shopping with her. In a blink of an eye, its that fast. You have 2 things to celebrate, her and a wonderfully operating saw.
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello you all !!!
After such a long time I'm pleased I can write again and show you where my restoration ended up.
Finishing the saw took me an unbelievable amount of time, I've been very busy with my family and only recently with my daughter being 1 year old,
I had time to finish the job.
I will show you in the next few days what the saw has become after some TLC.
After such a long time I'm pleased I can write again and show you where my restoration ended up.
Finishing the saw took me an unbelievable amount of time, I've been very busy with my family and only recently with my daughter being 1 year old,
I had time to finish the job.
I will show you in the next few days what the saw has become after some TLC.
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
I want to start from the clutch cover,
as always forgive me for my english and for use of improper terminology !!!
This is what the clutch cover looked like at the beginning :
The whole thing looked worn and ugly so I decided to repaint the piece ...
I degreased the piece the best I could and gently have smoothed the surface with some thin sandpaper :
Than I applied some plaster/putty (forgive me) to fill the tiny holes up :
as always forgive me for my english and for use of improper terminology !!!
This is what the clutch cover looked like at the beginning :
The whole thing looked worn and ugly so I decided to repaint the piece ...
I degreased the piece the best I could and gently have smoothed the surface with some thin sandpaper :
Than I applied some plaster/putty (forgive me) to fill the tiny holes up :
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
I than sanded and cleaned again the piece and went to my local paint shop where I bought a two parts epoxy in a spray can ( you have to apply it rather quickly before it solidifies into the can)
trying to match the color as much as I could :
Being it my first experience I call it a decent job ... you can also see in the top right corner some other pieces : plastic bumper, decal and chip deflector ready to complete the clutch cover !!!
trying to match the color as much as I could :
Being it my first experience I call it a decent job ... you can also see in the top right corner some other pieces : plastic bumper, decal and chip deflector ready to complete the clutch cover !!!
mikey78
ArboristSite Lurker
There was a broken spring leaf (number 1) that I replaced with a new one,
I also noticed that the chain brake band was missing a screw (number 2 ), I promptly replaced it.
After having cleaned all the gunk and after replacing the broken/missing parts the chain brake performed way better than before,
It has been like a night and day difference.
