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Husqvarna 281/288xp Rebuild and Port (ugly betty build)

Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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I'll do my best to keep this entertaining. Many pictures to follow.

So I picked this saw up locally from a friend, or you could say a guy I've bought saws from in the past. Saw friend? It ran, compression felt so so but I didn't care. The plan was to tear it down anyways. Now right before I picked it up I was working on a 460 for another member who had mentioned they had a new Oem 288xp top end they would sell for a fair price. This really was the reason I decided to buy the 281xp.

As soon as I brought the ol girl home(its an 1981 model) I sent pics to a friend(also a member) who I know likes beat up good running saws. And we worked out a deal.

Here's the first pic. Clearly an ex fallers saw who enjoyed running an above average power saw. It has a busted up eliminator cover, Smashed dual port muffler, hacked up pro safety full wrap now half wrap, and a poorly made custom outer spike. She's a character that's for sure.
IMG_0946.JPG

And the tear down begins:

Scored piston, no surprise
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Chipped up case
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Quick bath in the ultra sonic and she's ready to be assembled. And by quick I mean a few hours later..
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Starter assembly cleaned and gone through. Super custom low rider pull starter added.
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I forgot to take any pics of the new bearings and seals going in. My bad.

Case assembled and pressure/vac tested
IMG_1124.jpg IMG_1125.jpg

More to follow..
 
Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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Here I am setting it up to take initial port readings and squish.

I went ahead and did a timing advance now so I don't have to take the flywheel off again. It helps having it for reading squish and getting port numbers. Here is what I took off the key.
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Here is how I have my degree wheel setup. Cheap drill chuck from HF, a bolt I had laying around, couple rubber grommets that were around and a lock washer. Doing it this way allows quick setup on to any saw and allows me to rotate the wheel without having to release it from the crank.
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And I'm setup to start the machine work. My favorite part.
IMG_1134.jpg
Stock numbers: 107/126/70 BD: 19
Stock squish no gasket: .024"
 

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Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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Starting with the Intake
IMG_1161.jpg
Roughed in
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Finished port now at 80 degrees. 120 grit polish only.
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Next I do the exhaust and then set the transfer off of the final height. Shooting for 98.5 on the exhaust and a blow down of 18-19.

Port width and height set
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Roughed in
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Final after polishing from 120 to 500 grit and beveling. Ended up with an exhaust height at 98.5
IMG_1207.jpg IMG_1209.jpg Some smudgy residue from my buffing ball bit..
 
Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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I set my transfer height with a ring and measuring the duration. Once I start to get close I will stop and measure the duration multiple times before I'm done.

Roughed in
IMG_1266.PNG
Final upper transfer. Finished with 120 grit only
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On the lower tranfers all I do is clip the lower lip. Case compression gooooood
IMG_1232.jpg

Then comes final assembly. Along with bearings and seals, I also replaced the fuel line/filter, rebuilt the carb, all gaskets, and the spark plug. All the wiring was in great shape.
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Before bolting the jug down you have to see where the carb is going to hit the case and clearance it. Standard procedure for many 2-series huskies.
IMG_1258.jpg
 
Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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"Super custom low rider pull starter added"

It's sarcasm. Just a new style husky handle some faller had cut the bottom off. Works great for giving you a blister from the rope rubbing your finger.
 
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Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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I got a 281 and put a d handle on it. Yeah mine is tough to start to. I don't know the compression number but it's stout. Got to get I new tester to check. Basic price on port ?work
$240. I don't know exactly what it is with the 2-series starters but all of them are more difficult to start than a lot of saws out there. This one is by far the hardest 288 I've had in my hands and it's because the combustion chamber is smaller than any I've built before. If I would have put the exhaust at 100 which is a good spot for a 288 comp would be around 215 I would think. Which is still before the ring seats.

D- handle would be a good idea. I wish husky would make some kind of elasto start rope. I like the one stihl has.
 
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stilh036prohog

stilh036prohog

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Just watched the video of ugly Betty and that thing sounds good on my jbl speaker on loud. What size bar is that?. I put the biggest rope I could get by with because I know it's going to get wore out quick. What do you think that makes these hard to start to small pulley?
 
Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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Just watched the video of ugly Betty and that thing sounds good on my jbl speaker on loud. What size bar is that?. I put the biggest rope I could get by with because I know it's going to get wore out quick. What do you think that makes these hard to start to small pulley?
28". I'm not really sure about why. Pulley.....could be. Starter spring?
 
stilh036prohog

stilh036prohog

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Didn't they come with 404 chain? I ran a dolmar 133 with .404 and you better be ready or your going to meet that stump.
 
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Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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That is a nice sounding fast saw . You do some impressive work when it comes to mods. I picked up a few things just by looking at the pics . Thanks.
Glad I could help.

On my youtube channel I did a whole mini series on porting this jug. Kind of long videos but if you're a visual learner it'll help a lot. Link to my channel is in my Signature.
 
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