Husqvarna 288xp problem

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Before you tear the saw down make sure the they crank case screws are tight and all there. Clean them off thoroughly before attempting to tighten or replace them.
 
That is definetely good advice :agree2: and after reading I had a well duh moment.

Does anyone know how expensive a crankcase gasket is? I have searched and can't find any one that recognizes the part number!
 
Just went up and took a coser look at the saw and it apears that the bolts that hold the crakcase together in the main are of concern are under the clutch/sprocket in the oil pump assembly.

Tommorow I will either modify a super short allen wrench or pull the clutch. Does pulling the clutch take a puller or any special advice concerns or is it just take the nut off and remove?
 
Make sure you notice the arrow on the clutch, is is left handed threads.

You will either need a piston stop(most use a piece of rope) or a small impact-not recommended by most

Use the piston stop to keep the piston/crank from moving, then take the clutch off. Be careful when you go to pull the oil pump off, so you dont tear the seal.
 
The bolts for the crank case is below the oil pump. There are three small allan bolts holding the oil pump on. Then you will see the four allan bolts holding the case together.
 
Does anyone know how expensive a crankcase gasket is? I have searched and can't find any one that recognizes the part number!
Sounds like you need an IPL (illustrated parts list) for your saw. You may be able to find and download one on the net. 288 ipl

Once you have the part number, you can either ask a dealer for a price, or perhaps look it up on the Bailey's website. If you don't have a local dealer, you can order parts through Baileys.

No experience with Husky prices, but Stihl gasket sets go for $20 - $50.

However, expect to find other parts that need to be replaced while you have the saw apart. Expect to buy a few tools. For that reason, these projects have a way of costing more than expected. :)

I'm glad you are making progress.
 
Sounds like you need an IPL (illustrated parts list) for your saw. You may be able to find and download one on the net. 288 ipl

Once you have the part number, you can either ask a dealer for a price, or perhaps look it up on the Bailey's website. If you don't have a local dealer, you can order parts through Baileys.

No experience with Husky prices, but Stihl gasket sets go for $20 - $50.

However, expect to find other parts that need to be replaced while you have the saw apart. Expect to buy a few tools. For that reason, these projects have a way of costing more than expected. :)

I'm glad you are making progress.


I have an IPL but the part number doesn't seem to be any good anymore.
 
Pulled the oil pump and the crankcase bolts were good and tight.
Also drained oil and inspected inside of tank the best I could and found no damage leading to crankcase or otherwise. I used my ridgid mini camera and inspected it again and still could not find anything so I guess this saw is gonna have to be torn apart.
 
Pulled the oil pump and the crankcase bolts were good and tight.
Also drained oil and inspected inside of tank the best I could and found no damage leading to crankcase or otherwise. I used my ridgid mini camera and inspected it again and still could not find anything so I guess this saw is gonna have to be torn apart.

As others have mentioned,You should run saw with the oil tank empty to see if the smoke problem persists. I would be surprised if an oil leak is your problem. Are you sure the saw is not running rich? You need to make sure the carb tuning is correct first. Doing a pressure test would be the next step, before you try to replace a gasket that may have nothing wrong with it. It's not a small job. This is not a hard thing to figure out. Just go through the steps.

It may run fine on 130 psi. Don't get to caught up in a psi number if it starts and runs fine.
 
If the job gets too big for you, D&D can fix it. They are very sharp folks and not too far away from you.
 
I have already talked to D and D and I will be visiting them on Tuesday morning. For 2 reasons first I need to get some wood cut and the other used saw I have is also in the shop right now waiting on parts. It is a solo 662 that was free but needed a new piston. The second reason is I am hoping I can watch them do the work after that I will have better insight to work on my own.

I see above that someone was wondering if there was really a crankcase leak and I am not sure but the bar oil is turning milky and I can see some small bubbles when saw is running which is why I assumed there is a leak. To be honest I am still trying to understand how the bar oil would get to the other side of the piston other than I guess when the piston pulls down it is sucking it from the tank leak and through the transfers??
 
I was given an ancient non-running 288xp. A new plug and spark coil fixed it, but sometimes, after pulling the plug and turning it over several times, the pull rope works in a normal fashion. Most of the time though it is so difficult to pull the rope that starting is impossible. At first I thought that the rope was only six inches long LOL. The saw has no decompression valve. I cannot imagine why it sometimes turns over easily enough, other times I pull with all my might and the engine makes only one revolution. Any idea what is going on?
 
My brother's 281 Husky does that. It has a pattern of 3 smooth pulls one @#$% pull where the handle gets jerked out of your hand. I'd guess compression from the 3 pulls builds up, locks up on the @#$% pull, then releases. The p.o. put an Elasto-start handle on it to prevent dislocated shoulders as the saw is ported and has the highest compression of all our saws.
 
I picked up a used 288 with a scored piston. replaced the piston didn't pressure test it :dizzy: , ran it in the garage all was good. Filled it with bar oil and went out to make some cuts. Damn thing smoked liked crazy. Tore the saw down and found the case had cracked. Pressure test will probably show you whats wrong. Or fill the oil tank all the way up, run the saw on its side with the oil cap off and look for bubbles.
IMG_0538.jpg
 
I have a quick question, I have a husky 288xp lite and am trying to figure out what I need to purchase to make the saw run. It will run fine without the top cover that covers the air filter and when that is put on it will not run. What I believe is happening is that the cover or one of the screws is touching the wire that runs from the spark plug cap to somewhere on the saw. There are visible cut-like marks on the wire and I am thinking that this is stopping the saw. I am also looking into a larger bar and chain. I am currently running an old 24 in Oregon powercut bar and chain 3/8 pitch .050 gauge 84 links. Any recommendations?
 
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