Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Hounder2015, Jun 12, 2019.
I don't make money on saws either. I order a lot of parts from my local Husky dealer.
Get some new crank seals while you're ordering parts, very well could be a leaky crank seal causing the lean condition. sounds like this saw needs a good once over after you get the correct carb on her.
Best of luck with the saw, they're really nice saws.
Ok I'll do that. Thanks for all the advice I'll take all I can get. Not too proud to admit I know very little about working on saws. Last one I had was an 028 Stihl I bought for 100 bucks and only thing I had to fix was the pull rope that broke. Had it 6 yrs and I'll admit that it was mistreated.
Ok I wrote this out but you couldn't wait for my slow azz...haha.
No perfect a read your post's. No worries man. I think that's what you did.
I would go backwards and forwards with the low but if your idle isn't responsive on a cold saw then it's a rap.
That's all I am getting at below
You got the answer already a believe. A have had lots of those saws with Walbro carbs and what is common is when you are lacking idle adjustment or low they are F—ed. They will do exactly that.
The Cylinder? Many 'leaks' wont show up unless you pour the heat into the saw.
Some could sell you a saw and tell you it's the best and you put it to the test and it could have three leaks. Hardy little saws those. They will take leaks like London takes bombs...like a sponge. I'm here to tell ya.
(you can read this anyway if you like.)
You said it would remain racing until you throttle?
So yeah 100℅ it is all lined up under the clamp. I seen guys that do it for a living and I've gone back into them and they were mushed together.
I am not sure if you are just on a fast idle settings that is activated by your choke and released by touching the trigger? It would race with fast idle set. so it runs.
If you can warm it that way then it stalls make sure higher idle is off by trigger and don't choke.
Take your idle way way up and see if it runs without the trigger. Now do you have any control on your idle firstly? If it is racing hard and running then ajust down a bit till it almost stops racing. Responsive? (Make sure chain is loose)
If so then..
take your low jet 1/4 to the left slow if it will go (limiters probably) go as far as you can then. That should bring your revs down some. Responsive? try the trigger and and set your idle. If not try the other way and see if the idle will pick up as you go clockwise.
then go the other way slowly and see if revs pick up. Once it's at it's peak rev and runs smoothest then go back 1/4 turn. Then set idle
What website is everyone getting their parts from? I'm looking for a Zama carb but I type in Zama c3 el42 and a bunch of fake Zama carbs show up. They are only about 15 bucks so im getting the feeling they aren't legit Zama carbs? I'm going to be ordering a carb, a gasket for where the cylinder bolts to the saw, a new intake boot and metal clamp. And I found that the decomp valve is bent and it wasnt sealing all the way, but I might just use a bolt and block it off.
When you order parts , order the proper decomp plug, they'r cheap.
Here is the carb you want to order...
And that is a very good price!
Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
Thanks chainsaw Jim for the link. The price is good 50 for oem.
Plug up your decomp and I deleted the base gasket on my 357xp with the help from people on here. Took my blown up junk to a hardwood shredder in a few days.
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