HUSQVARNA 365 sp

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I've run the 365 vs 039 stihl, both with sharp chains and I can make 1-3/4 cuts in 10" oak to it's 1. I can cut 1-1/4 to a muffler mod. 372. I just fixed up a 288xp for a friend of mine and didn't test it with the 365, but I did put both of them in a 36" oak at diffrent times and cound'nt tell any diffrence other then if you let the rpm drop in the cut the 288 would recover a little faster.
The key to the mod. 365 is let it scream run a 8 pin sprocket and a sharp chain. it'll chunk wood 10'

The difference is that 288xp can pull a 30-36" bar through oak if set up right. And easily if ported.

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4GEl4oGFdx4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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The difference is that 288xp can pull a 30-36" bar through oak if set up right. And easily if ported.

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4GEl4oGFdx4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

No doubt about it the 288 is an awsome saw. I bought the one I fixed for my friend actually for myself from the local husqvarna dealer. They were selling it for one of their customer who had been doing storm cleanup after hurricane kate and he did'nt need it anymore. They checked it over and rebuilt the carb. and sold it to me for $200.00, It had a 36" bar. I got it home and tried it out and it cut about like my 141 husq. I was shocked at how weak it was. Piston looked like new and had good compression and spark, I took the carb off and intake side of piston was also fine, I took carb apart and inlet screen was about 1/2 stopped up, and they had set the needle arm like you would do a walbro not a till. carb.( rookie screw up ) got her back together and it would scream. put a 20" bar and new chain on her and sold it to my friend for $200.00.
If it was more than just me here I would have tested it against my tried and true souped up 365.
Maybe i'll call him over this weekend and find out. I have 20,30, and 36" bars and lots of big oaks and pines on the yard.
 
I got mine for $28 and love it.
needed a recoil starter,fuel lines and had a leaky gas tank.
all were zero cost fixes.
while i had it apart it got a muffler mod,no base gasket and a nice porting job.
 
to be honest i don't have much experience with the 365 (time wise anyway)
just got it new this march,but alreday i have aprox (seriously) 80+ tonnes (white tonne bags) don't know what you lads
call them,but hasn't missed a beat and i love to work with it,downside it is a lot heavier than my old 61
a saw i truely admired too given it was 20+years old and never missed a beat either!!!


the port work you lads too is unreal,very tempting :D


woodchucker

would a 75cc make much differnce on it?

probably pull better in all rpm ranges??


the 65cc is man enough though,i cut harwoods and softwoods,it's fairly quick
but then again i havn't ever used a 75cc :D;)
 
No doubt about it the 288 is an awsome saw. I bought the one I fixed for my friend actually for myself from the local husqvarna dealer. They were selling it for one of their customer who had been doing storm cleanup after hurricane kate and he did'nt need it anymore. They checked it over and rebuilt the carb. and sold it to me for $200.00, It had a 36" bar. I got it home and tried it out and it cut about like my 141 husq. I was shocked at how weak it was. Piston looked like new and had good compression and spark, I took the carb off and intake side of piston was also fine, I took carb apart and inlet screen was about 1/2 stopped up, and they had set the needle arm like you would do a walbro not a till. carb.( rookie screw up ) got her back together and it would scream. put a 20" bar and new chain on her and sold it to my friend for $200.00.
If it was more than just me here I would have tested it against my tried and true souped up 365.
Maybe i'll call him over this weekend and find out. I have 20,30, and 36" bars and lots of big oaks and pines on the yard.



please do get that video up of you're ported 365,im very intrested!!!:D
 
woodchucker

would a 75cc make much differnce on it?

probably pull better in all rpm ranges??


I've heard lots of opinions about this. Most I've heard is "The difference between the two is probably way less than ya think." Which may be the case, generally because a lot of people get really caught up in displacement thinking that it's the ONLY thing that matters. I most definitely agree that there's no replacement for displacement but the 75cc jug does make a pretty noticeable difference - especially when both saws are broken in.


I've run both saws, and the 75cc jug definitely has a lot more ass behind it. It'll pull a bigger bar with much more ease and you can push a lot harder without it snorting back at ya as much as a 365 would. But that's not being said to down talk the 365. Like I said, they're really awesome saws.
 
thanks for that info woodchuck

i don't have much experience with these bigger saws,but it has also in fairness been the way i am
when buying something with an engine,BIGGER = better,or so i assumed..i set out with a budget of a grand
and said to myself i will most likely end up with a 90cc + as i meet some big trees,then after a lot of looking
i ended up going for a lighter saw like this,don't quote me on this following statment but i found the 365 to be
noticably lighter to handle then the 80+cc version i handled.....i got 900euros worth of gear
including a toy saw for my small boy all for 700euros!!!

i was working the other day in the woods taking down 2x large fir trees (thinning) a little
and i was just walking to the work place with the saw fully fueled up,don't laugh now at this but i hurted my back
starting it,i had to sit down,nothing to do with compression or force on the starter cord,it was just the way i handled the weight,was using compression release.

i had to litterly sit down for 30minutes with a horrible cramp like muscle streatch thing going on :mad2:

it just caught me the wrong way offguard,again not played with bigger than this but this sure is MUCH heavier than
my old 61 with 20" bar,this thing is heavy i find,doubt i could lift anything bigger for a prolonged time frame.


im no small man either,i weigh 220pounds @ 6ft tall and never had back problems :msp_wink:



weight IMO is a big factor too....working with these things.
 
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Can you explain the fake Chinese one? Is there an easy way to tell?

wow you resurected an old thread of mine from where i joined here.... good old search box can do that
LOL...

china saws should have cheaper looking plastics,the body of the saw is a lighter orange colour in some cases,the main
thing is the serial stamp will be a fake so it won't have the correct info,all the covers inside them won't say EM ORIGINAL
they should if it's not a fake!!

the stickers will look fake,the bars won't look real they will have bad stickers on them and bad paint on the bar which will
wear off after a few cuts,the chains will be crap.carbs in some fake huskies won't even have a name.......and some other things i can't quite think of right now..
 
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wow you resurected an old thread of mine from where i joined here.... good old search box can do that
LOL...

china saws should have cheaper looking plastics,the body of the saw is a lighter orange colour in some cases,the main
thing is the serial stamp will be a fake so it won't have the correct info,all the covers inside them won't say EM ORIGINAL
they should if it's not a fake!!

the stickers will look fake,the bars won't look real they will have bad stickers on them and bad paint on the bar which will
wear off after a few cuts,the chains will be crap.carbs in some fake huskies won't even have a name.......and some other things i can't quite think of right now..

Thanks
 
I do recall one thing Sunfish (AS member) discovered : Go back to loggers tag of his saw (serial number photo). The town is spelled Huskvarna, Sweden. On the bogus saw they spell it like they spell the company, Husqvarna, Sweden.

Something that I wouldn't use to PROVE it was real but to disprove. As in they may have adjusted their mistake, so it is not written in stone.

Also, no box but a plastic bag. Different spark plug. Extra spark plug. Fugazy serial number. Off the top of my head, anyway...
 
I do recall one thing Sunfish (AS member) discovered : Go back to loggers tag of his saw (serial number photo). The town is spelled Huskvarna, Sweden. On the bogus saw they spell it like they spell the company, Husqvarna, Sweden.

Something that I wouldn't use to PROVE it was real but to disprove. As in they may have adjusted their mistake, so it is not written in stone.

Also, no box but a plastic bag. Different spark plug. Extra spark plug. Fugazy serial number. Off the top of my head, anyway...

Bingo, Thats what I was thinking. The saw that just sold on ebay looked legit, but without being able to put hands on & check it good , have to pass.
 
The one on flea bay looked legit to me. It was an older (2003) one than mine (2008) but otherwise looked just like mine that has never been run stickers and all.
 
I do recall one thing Sunfish (AS member) discovered : Go back to loggers tag of his saw (serial number photo). The town is spelled Huskvarna, Sweden. On the bogus saw they spell it like they spell the company, Husqvarna, Sweden.





hello tommy,

yes you are right,but how you know mine is genuine is they spelled it correct on the stamp twice then
they spelled it as you say ----> huskvarna because i think this is how it's spelled in sweeden on the saws sold there.

here is my stamp again.




View attachment 232886



on a china saw there would be no relevant information such as a proper serial number,it might just have one
false set of numbers with no build year etc.... just the name if your lucky on the dudd saw L)
 
Just going by what I learned from Sunfish and that is on the stamp, all legit Husky's spell out the town. (I would imagine some bogus ones too, like I said use to disprove NOT approve). The town is spelled with a "K" and not a "Q".Your stamp shows correct and that is the company on the stamp is spelled with a Q and the town with a K.

On Applehead's saw, it was spelled with a Q. Plus his saw did a semi implode from the gitgo. If you ask him, I think he knew right away beyond spelling, serial numbers etc.

Your saw has been banging for a year. I would imagine that to be enough proof.

VINs (Vehicle Identification Numbers) on cars are semi elaborate. Very easy to spot altered VINS before evening investigating what the numbers mean because of shoddy work. The feebs making up the saws know most people don't know a scam serial number. Just like those who alter VINS. Just trying to make it look legit for the moment.

Professional criminals do the cost benefit analysis too and getting the serial numbers semi correct obviously does not benefit them. Yet.
 
AppleHead: Why don't you go into a store or buy a used/new from here? I would never trust a NIB anything. The odds of NIB being legit may well be 90%. But I don't like the odds unless it's 100%.

What town you from in NY? Or County if you're not interested in the world knowing. I'm from Putnam. I was almost positive about counterfeit Stihls on CL last week. But the add was down in a matter of hours. Kind of jumps out at you.
 
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