Husqvarna 372XP advice?

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Den

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Been thinking seriously about using my tax refund to purchase a 372XP. I was hoping to get some advice from people with first hand knowledge of this saw. Any weak points with the 372XP ?
1) Carburetor boot, and boot clamp?
2) Bucking spike bolts stripping out in the crankcase?
3) Muffler bolts coming loose? (needing Loctite).
4) Guide bar studs having a tapered neck, making it more difficult when installing the guide bar?

Any input is much appreciated.


.
 
Been thinking seriously about using my tax refund to purchase a 372XP. I was hoping to get some advice from people with first hand knowledge of this saw. Any weak points with the 372XP ?
1) Carburetor boot, and boot clamp?
2) Bucking spike bolts stripping out in the crankcase?
3) Muffler bolts coming loose? (needing Loctite).
4) Guide bar studs having a tapered neck, making it more difficult when installing the guide bar?

Any input is much appreciated.


.

Lot of this depends on the user. They do have slightly tapered guide bolts but its no big deal. Anything and everything can wiggle loose. I've talked to a faller who's muffler fell off during a back cut. All this stuff isn't specific to a 372 those are issues you might encounter with any saw especially in a professional environment. I sell rebuilt and ported 372's for $750 ish when I have them.
 
If you are going to buy a new one, better act fast unless dealer has them stashed. I am with Tim, find a 365xt or 2166 and convert to a 372 or 2172, easily done. Not too hard to remove muffler bolts and apply blue thread locker, might want to also do case bolts (one at a time). If you are an average firewood cutter and run good fuel, do maintenance, you have a saw that will last a life time. If it happens to go down, easy to rebuild with oem parts.
 
If you are going to buy a new one, better act fast unless dealer has them stashed. I am with Tim, find a 365xt or 2166 and convert to a 372 or 2172, easily done. Not too hard to remove muffler bolts and apply blue thread locker, might want to also do case bolts (one at a time). If you are an average firewood cutter and run good fuel, do maintenance, you have a saw that will last a life time. If it happens to go down, easy to rebuild with oem parts.

I'm sorry Duce, I don't understand your statement of "better act fast". Is Husqvarna discontinuing the 372XP ?
 
Grab a used or rebuilt 372 OE version or a 572 and don't look back. The x-torq is okay but I decided to sell the one I bought pretty quickly. My first choice is the original 372 then the 572. Note that online the 572 is much better priced than at my local dealers...(located in northern Wisconsin)

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I have the xtorq 372 and I love it. I would highly recommend it. It is a very simple design with an excellent air filter which really is key in the long service life of a saw.
You can mill with this saw if you wish, cut firewood if you wish (it’s not too heavy but not light either)
If really there is one saw that does all I would say this is it, with good balance for weight to power.

there are a lot of people that say you need the older version cause it’s more reliable. I have heard of people with tons of hours in the xtorques with no problems.
Keep your tuning in check and run a quality mix oil with fresh gas and you will have a saw that lasts a long time
 
All these options people replied with you still end up with a nice saw, just depends on if you need a warranty on a new saw or fine with one from a member, if you dont work too much on saws then a good dealer is real important to help with any warranty or tuning issues and they frown upon working on online purchases (which they arent really supposed to sell pro saws online), my dealer just ran out of 372s but there are others who stocked up and may still have them. Did you buy the one on the other site for a good deal? Its listed as sold now. I can also say the 572 is real nice if you want autotune and have a good dealer.
 
Been thinking seriously about using my tax refund to purchase a 372XP. I was hoping to get some advice from people with first hand knowledge of this saw. Any weak points with the 372XP ?
1) Carburetor boot, and boot clamp?
2) Bucking spike bolts stripping out in the crankcase?
3) Muffler bolts coming loose? (needing Loctite).
4) Guide bar studs having a tapered neck, making it more difficult when installing the guide bar?

Any input is much appreciated.


.
Have 3 of them and 2 jonsered 2172 same saw , have many hours on always reliable and very good . One of my most used saws
 
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