Husqvarna 450 side cover removed with chain break engaged!

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Timbo, I bet you didn't tell the dealer you used a 3' lever bar to pry that cover off with the brake engaged. I'm surprised they didn't show you which parts are damaged so they could sell them to you.

Matto, kind of you to help him out. It would be a mystery to me if someone could pry the cover off with the brake engaged and not damage the band/linkage and possibly the pin too.
 
Well, you know, you live, and you learn. I know what not to do now. No prybar was used in the destruction of This linkage. This is my first modern day Husky. I have taken off plenty of clutch covers, on few different brands of saws....I've never had an issue until now, of course the brake was probably not set on any of those saws. If it wasn't for mistakes, we would not ever learn what not to do.
 
Timbo74 said:
Well, you know, you live, and you learn. I know what not to do now. No prybar was used in the destruction of This linkage. This is my first modern day Husky. I have taken off plenty of clutch covers, on few different brands of saws....I've never had an issue until now, of course the brake was probably not set on any of those saws. If it wasn't for mistakes, we would not ever learn what not to do.
Click to expand...
Yes sir. Anyone that has never had a problem with a saw, or made a mistake. Has not used a saw long enough or is untruthful. Sure Mattyo will figure it out, it's in his wheelhouse. Kudos to him.
 
I like the challange of working on chainsaws. Working on my truck sucks and I always have to get it fixed so I can go to work but a chainsaw I can work on for a while. I dont use them every day and I have 6 so if I need to cut something I'll be ok.

So it should be a fun hobby fixing them if it's not your job. Ask for help and you tube it if you want and enjoy messing around with them. Buy yourself a stihl ms290 and rebuild it and if you do you will appreciate working on that 450.
 
I should have just made a tool right away out of a socket, instead of using the needle nose/vicegrip method. I think I know exactly what happened to it. I think what happened was, I had the mechanism almost 3/4 of the way to the unlocked position when the needle noses slipped, causing the mechanism to slap back into the locked position under full force of the spring, tweaking the linkage somewhere. I could be wrong, but that just seems like the most likely scenario to me.
 
You actually touched on the golden solution... It seems I've even seen a few Husqvarnas ship with the tool you specified. Basically your multipurpose tool you can cut out 3 prongs on one end and it fits right into the release mechanism and can be hand torqued to the "un-locked" position. Do that and never ever worry about this situation with any chainsaw that has that type of brake mechanism.
 
Yeah, there are a bunch of ways to fix this. Hamish has possibly the simple way, but involves taking apart your saw further and plenty of guys don't want to do that.

Modding a scrench is another way...no question
or making a 3 prong deep socket adapter out of an old socket
or removing the clutch / drum and putting the cover on unimpeded.
etc

lots of ways here to fix this, but I have a feeling something is snagged in his mechanism. i've never seen it, which is why i'm curious
 
Come to think of it I think I got a Craftsman POS once that the guy basically gave to me because he couldn't figure out why the cover didn't fit. I ended up taking the stupid thing apart and manually resetting it, this was before I learned of the magic scrench solution...
 
Ok, i don't think this makes for an interesting vid. The long and the short of it is that the part is broken, irreparably. But, its not quite that simple. The mechanism without the spring does move freely. When you release the chainbrake, the spring becomes tensioned. When you activate the chainbrake, the spring releases. Its when the spring releases that we have a problem. The cam itself travels too far and gets "stuck" in the sense that you can't push a cam mechanism straight and expect anything to happen. So, why is it traveling too far? either the mag case here is worn, bent, OR the plastic cover is not stiff enough or worn. if the mag case had a slightly bigger/heavier stop, then the cam wouldn't be able to travel too far and "lock". but indeed that it what is happening.

I just spent 30 minutes fiddling with it. its late...i'm tired, and I do think its hopeless because odds are something is SLIGHTLY out of wack in the process of removing this thing from the saw.

BUT, ya gotta go through it and diagnose best and possible. the mechanism still does function, the chainbrake band is fine, lots of good parts here. wish I could have been more help but I think something here was bent in procress of removing the cover initially from the saw and likely you are best off getting a new part

:(
 
Thanks for trying. So where to go from here? Should I just buy the whole deal ( clutch cover ) just to be safe, and save the old, for parts? The clutch covers are only around $40, and I would rather order the whole deal, and be safe, then order the internal part, and find out later the mag case is tweaked.
 
The cam should be straight on with the spring when engaged. It rotates with the motion of the brake handle. Can you put a picture of where the breakage is? I just wonder because the tension on it when engaged is far greater than you can hope to affect with just your hands.
 
I suspect that whatever damage is done is slight enough to not be easily seen. The cam is over rotated. I'll see what I can do about a movie but I'm super busy right now.

A new clutch cover is in order and keep the old for parts. I'll send it back when I'm done with it :)
 

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