Husqvarna 572 starts but dies

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mcl

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Long story short, bought a 572 on ebay and turned out to be trash. According to sales description starts but dies in a few seconds. This saw had seen some serious hours and neglect you would not believe. The case was split in 3 parts but the saw had still been in use after this.

Should have put in in the trash bin but pride would not let me. So far im 700usd in the saw after a new case with crank, piston and whole heap of other parts. Everything has been cleaned, checked etc,new spark plug and fuel filter.
The saw will start easily with the choke on,it will run for a few secs and die. Sometimes it will run nice for a while, like idle without feathering and respond to throttle nicely,but eventually it will die.After it dies it usually needs choke to get it fired up again, even when hot.

Tested the carb ,it doesnt seem to pop off,tried it all the way to 30psi,it will keep pressure.It will also keep vacuum on the return hose.Decomp is plugged.
Anyone got any tips?Seems like a fueling issue.How long does the autotune take to adjust?I dont have a chain for it yet could this affect the autotune process?It seems to run fine at wot,issues are with idle.Its going to the dealer tomorrow for a reset and check for codes.Once its running it will be sold and replaced by a 372,had enough of these gizmo saws.Does echo make big 70cc saws without gimmicks?
 
Long story short, bought a 572 on ebay and turned out to be trash. According to sales description starts but dies in a few seconds. This saw had seen some serious hours and neglect you would not believe. The case was split in 3 parts but the saw had still been in use after this.

Should have put in in the trash bin but pride would not let me. So far im 700usd in the saw after a new case with crank, piston Does echo make big 70cc saws without gimmicks?

Echo does, 7310P. Sorry for your troubles, the very reason I would never buy a used saw off ebay, but that's just me. I'm not a gambler. I'm in the camp of "buy once, cry once".
 
That echo is starting to look mighty fine with these m-tronic/autotune crap forced on saws.
 
It may need to have the Autotune reset at the dealer if it was run awhile with several things wrong with it.

If you’re interested in a new ported Echo 7310 send me a pm. I have one that I bought new to do porting trial and error on in case I went backwards on a customer’s saw, but his turned very well and I didn’t need to even remove mine from the box
 
I have not pressure and vac tested the saw.It has the same fault it had before it was torn down.New complete short block from husqvarna,all new oem gaskets etc.Did not see it as necessary to do testing on a new block.Ofcourse its possible it has leak on the intake side,but all the parts looked good and if it idle its really slow.

Its going to the shop today. Husqvarna forgot to make threads for the chain brake handle bolts on the new short block,holes were drilled but never threaded.Quality control must be great at the factory:confused:
I work as a industrial engineer,alot of what I do is inspect equipment and estimate how long it will last. The build quality of the 572 looks great and durable,the autotune electrics side of it not so much.Flimsy wiring that will vibrate and chafe,poor cable quality and not to mention the must have dealer mentality to repair and very expensive parts when stuff go wrong. These saws will probably be great for the professional user,for people that buy it for land/homeowner use and expect it to last decades like the 372 etc nope,aint going to happen.Looking on ebay in europe alot of people seems to have the same idea,as decades old 372 sell for the same or higher prices than their newer autotune saws.
 
Vac and pressure test the saw. I had a leak under a transfer cover. Same behaviour. Starts and runs on high idle or throttle. Won’t idle long. Eventually leans out and burns up. Found it, fixed it, runs great now.

Auto tune cannot learn without a chain. You need to run a good load on the saw for several minutes. Impossible without a chain.


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Good thinking about the transfer covers. Once I get the saw back from the shop I will test them.Dont have block of plates for this saw but I can spray brake cleaner and see if it effect running.The saw shop told me they would update the firmware and print me the values of the saw if it was possible, they also said they would slap on a chain and bar and see if the saw would recalibrate.I asked them about a reset but they told me its only done when a carb or coil is exchanged and that they would not do it otherwise.

Its definately lean when it dies,otherwise it would not require choke to get it restarted.Its weird how it can idle nice, then you give it throttle and it responds really well, then all of a sudden it wont idle anymore.After that everytime you get it running it will just run for a couple of seconds and die.It sounds like its running out of fuel.It wont keep running even if its kept at half throttle or high idle,

Btw,I dont know the hours of this saw,but will find out once I get it back from the shop,it was seriously abused and I suspect it has heavy hours.The spark plug wire had chafed through and plug boot cracked.2 of the 3 autotune wires between coil and carb had worn through the wire isolation.This is a xpg model and the power wire from the coil to the heating elements had worn through the plastic isolation at 3 different spots,but this is a separate system so it should not effect running. So this saw had a total of 6 spots of electric cables were the isolation had worn down so that bare copper was seen and possibly grounding.Great stuff putting electronics on vibrating chain saws.Took alot of soldering,wires and rubber crimp to repair all these wires.

Should the saw be able to calibrate idle without the chain? From my understanding this saw should have the newest autotune like the mark 2 550.
 
Should the saw be able to calibrate idle without the chain? From my understanding this saw should have the newest autotune like the mark 2 550.
It needs to run like 80% throttle under a small load to reset. They say to make a 2-3” deep ripping cut with the tip for 2 minutes lengthwise in a log
 
I thought that was for the older autotunes.These new ones should do it all the time on the fly to my understanding?The 572 and new 550 mark 2 should have a newer type of autotune to my knowledge
 
I thought that was for the older autotunes.These new ones should do it all the time on the fly to my understanding?The 572 and new 550 mark 2 should have a newer type of autotune to my knowledge
Field reset/calibration is the same across the board. But yeah, you’d think they’d do it 30x per second on their own
 
Found my issue and it was pretty simple. But a surprise
pressure and vac tested the carb. Passed vac but not even close on pressure.
saw had 10 tanks or less, so it was a surprise that the carb wouldn’t pass. I use VP non E, so I’d like to think it wasn’t fuel related.
metering valve screen was caked.
lapped the valve seat with tooth paste and a q-tip, put the needle, screen and carb in the ultra sonic cleaner and then rebuilt it.
runs great.
original issue was that on release of the trigger quick, it would idle down real low and then try to recover. Sometimes it didn’t. And restart it, I had treat it like flooded saw.
In hind sight, it make sense. I just never though the carb would be so crappy up so soon.
 
Vac test at a carb inlet?

There’s never a vacuum there in operation, what is your test method to get a “pass” on that?
Vac test on the primer. Pass was hold vac. Think it was 7 psi, but it didn’t much matter.
i did vac test the inlet on accident and thought for a moment I had just f worded the thing when it wouldnt pass. Then I moved the test to the primer!
 
The carb was cleaner in a utlrasonic cleaner,flushed with carb cleaner. Did not replace any parts,everything looked like new.Tested the return/primer nipple,will hold vacuum.Fuel inlet will hold pressure, these autotune carb dont seem to have a popoff pressure.
 
The carb was cleaner in a utlrasonic cleaner,flushed with carb cleaner. Did not replace any parts,everything looked like new.Tested the return/primer nipple,will hold vacuum.Fuel inlet will hold pressure, these autotune carb dont seem to have a popoff pressure.
They do, it’s just up north of what the gauge reads
 
I got a confirmation that the saw is ready to be picked up.It went in for the threads repair,but they were to do a quick diagnostics on the autotune.Perhaps its working or then maybe not,will be at least a week before I have time to pick it up.

The mityvac i have the gauge goes up to 30 psi,the carb was holding 20 psi no problem.I tried pumping it up beyond 30 psi,it was not popping but slowly loosing pressure at that point.Not sure if this was the hose leaking or needle valve not leaking.Will repeat the test when I get the saw back and if its not working. If the pop off pressure is too high,would not the fuel pump have a problem to pump enough pressure to pop the needle valve?Just a thought.
 
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