mama
ArboristSite Operative
I carry two saws and wedges.
husqvarna.. anyone else run into this?
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
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Mac88
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried that. It just made things worse. Lucky for me the neighbor's wife wasn't standing outside.
"Crap Happens" looks like this... My saw pinched tight in a Sugar Maple 2-3 feet below a 4-way crotch. I was only about a third of the way through the cut when something shifted and split the crotch above the saw. The top of the cut is still open, it's pinched on the back side of the cut. Even if I would've placed an early wedge it wouldn't have changed a thing. The saw case is jammed tight against the log... ain't no way you could remove the power head with an outboard clutch. It's a good thing I did remove the power head too, because when I started cutting to free the bar the whole thing rolled and fell... at a minimum it would'a snapped the rear handle clean off my saw as it passed that log underneath, probably would'a been much worse.
Mac88
Addicted to ArboristSite
"Crap Happens" looks like this... My saw pinched tight in a Sugar Maple 2-3 feet below a 4-way crotch. I was only about a third of the way through the cut when something shifted and split the crotch above the saw. The top of the cut is still open, it's pinched on the back side of the cut. Even if I would've placed an early wedge it wouldn't have changed a thing. The saw case is jammed tight against the log... ain't no way you could remove the power head with an outboard clutch. It's a good thing I did remove the power head too, because when I started cutting to free the bar the whole thing rolled and fell... at a minimum it would'a snapped the rear handle clean off my saw as it passed that log underneath, probably would'a been much worse.
Point well made.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's an order of attack when limbing and bucking that will improve your chances too... It's not the fastest method, but it's one of the safer ones. When limbing and bucking a tree to be removed I start by assessing the safety - start form the uphill side if you can, but look at the balance of the tree too. Some trees will roll uphill. Have a quick think about how removing each limb will affect the balance. Every tree is different so no rule covers it all, but there's no rule that says you have to work a tree 'end to end', and working it in a way that is easier and safer does often work out quicker in the long run.
I'm running saws all day every day and I still get stuck a couple times a week. I'm in a luck spot because all my work is residential so we have a truck full of saws, wedges, pry bars etc, and a few guys working together to lend a hand.
The order I try to use is;
Remove free standing branches first - branches that aren't resting on anything. It reduces the weight, and those are easy cuts. That way, if the tree rolls, there are less things flinging around, and those 'free' branches wont become bound branches later. if the log does roll
Leave branches that stabilise the tree and prevent it rolling.
Take other branches near the crown that are only lightly bound and are easy takes - again, it reduces the overall bind that the tree is in.
Now start on the log. Make your first cut in the easiest place. If part of the log is suspended, that's pretty straightforward, so buck up to the point of suspension because it's jam for free. No chance of a bind, and you can keep your chain out of the dirt.
Once the free ride is over, make your next cut in the easist place to cut that gives you a 'rollable' section of log. That varies with diameter, but might be around 6' for a 2' diameter log. Make the cut in a place where you can easily get the saw under the log if it's top bound. Avoid places where the tree is part buried etc, you can probably roll those out later if you plan the cuts.
Try to buck up to a bunch of rollable sections where you can.
As you get closer to the crown there should be a lot less bind on the remaining branches because you've taken all the free branches of, and bucked off a lot of the log weight. They'll be easier to limb now.
Now start bucking. Because the sections can be rolled you don't need to through cut. Just go 3/4, roll them and finish the cut. A peavey helps a *lot*. Keep a wedge in your pocket. You can always cut a make-do mallet out of a limb.
Shaun
I'm running saws all day every day and I still get stuck a couple times a week. I'm in a luck spot because all my work is residential so we have a truck full of saws, wedges, pry bars etc, and a few guys working together to lend a hand.
The order I try to use is;
Remove free standing branches first - branches that aren't resting on anything. It reduces the weight, and those are easy cuts. That way, if the tree rolls, there are less things flinging around, and those 'free' branches wont become bound branches later. if the log does roll
Leave branches that stabilise the tree and prevent it rolling.
Take other branches near the crown that are only lightly bound and are easy takes - again, it reduces the overall bind that the tree is in.
Now start on the log. Make your first cut in the easiest place. If part of the log is suspended, that's pretty straightforward, so buck up to the point of suspension because it's jam for free. No chance of a bind, and you can keep your chain out of the dirt.
Once the free ride is over, make your next cut in the easist place to cut that gives you a 'rollable' section of log. That varies with diameter, but might be around 6' for a 2' diameter log. Make the cut in a place where you can easily get the saw under the log if it's top bound. Avoid places where the tree is part buried etc, you can probably roll those out later if you plan the cuts.
Try to buck up to a bunch of rollable sections where you can.
As you get closer to the crown there should be a lot less bind on the remaining branches because you've taken all the free branches of, and bucked off a lot of the log weight. They'll be easier to limb now.
Now start bucking. Because the sections can be rolled you don't need to through cut. Just go 3/4, roll them and finish the cut. A peavey helps a *lot*. Keep a wedge in your pocket. You can always cut a make-do mallet out of a limb.
Shaun
I still miss the switch on my old Homey 360. Toggle in just the right position to flick it with a finger. None of the other saws switch activation I have had since even came close for quick, easy activation.
Harry K
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
The off switch is one of the things I like least about the huskies, so I guess everyone's different! I find it's very cheap and plasticky feeling, and not very positive in its action. It also fails pretty commonly on high use saws.
The US version of the 660/066 comes with a low output oiler. The australian version comes with the high output oiler as stock. You can get the high output oiler from your dealer which suits longer length bars. Part number is;
1122 640 3201
Shaun
Like others said that is he disadvantage of having one saw. The bright side is if you stick around here you will soon have more saws than one man could ever need but you will never admit that. I started here with 2 saws and now I s old one of those two and have over 12.
I tell my wife chainsaws are like her knitting needles - I don't understand why she needs more than one set. She starts telling me that each one has a different use and I rest my case. Not only that I am about even with what i made on the ones I fixed and sold. On top of that the saws heat the house which saves us money. Chainsaw repair is a great pastime.
I tell my wife chainsaws are like her knitting needles - I don't understand why she needs more than one set. She starts telling me that each one has a different use and I rest my case. Not only that I am about even with what i made on the ones I fixed and sold. On top of that the saws heat the house which saves us money. Chainsaw repair is a great pastime.
Imagineero, thanks for the oiler tip; and all the other comments! Three saws are enough for me. I can get by with two, but the 066 I could not pass up for $300. bucks, even though I dumped both bars and many chains that came with it. He bought it new, and it is, I'm guessing, ten years old but I do not believe there are many hours on it. He sold everything: Bobcat; conveyor; dump insert; dump trailer; 6x6 army truck; and all his saws. Oh, and a TW-6. One guy bought most of it, except the 6x6. Rain day/garage clean up day for me. I've been lax on putting stuff back after a couple projects. Helped my daughter move out of her boy friends place yesterday. He smashed her iphone, several times by the look of it, broke a large wall mirror and threw all her closes on top of the glass, slapped her sun burn, and erased all her family pictures, everything really, and withdrew $70. from her account yesterday and then lied about it. Was more than glad to help her, and without a car she needed it. She is a waitress and he is a cook at the same place. Last night she went in and talked to her boss, a woman. She explained that she was quitting on short notice because of this guy, and showed her a baggie of pieces. It is no longer recognizable as a phone. Her bosses response was, "What did you do to make him so mad?" "You are scheduled tomorrow, what about that?" That would have been the end of the conversation for me but, she thanked her for the year and a half of work and left. She has my van with everything she owns in it and is moving 30 miles away to Grand Rapids where she doesn't need a car, and in with a good friend she has roomed with before in college. She is also going to a friends funeral in Holland,MI Saturday with her true friends, that has made national news. She used to hang out on a farm and ride quads with this guy in high school before he joined the service. Six tours... Her boss was not going to let her off for the funeral... not a problem! I learned a long time ago there are times you ask for time off, and others your not asking, your telling them your not going to be there. So she probable would not have had a job anyway come Saturday, and in two weeks tourist season really drops off. As far as her parents are concerned, she is making good choices. Now if I could only get her to stack firewood once in a while... I know, I got off topic, just a little...
Back to your original post, I think that it is great that posters found a couple of simple methods (other than not getting the bar stuck in the first place). It will be helpful to have thought about this a bit in case it happens, and to think about what else to carry in your kit:
- wedges to free the bar: simple, basic, should have them anyways when cutting;
- chainbreaker (Granberg, etc.): fits into the 'might use sometime' category. Might be able to use a punch and anvil, depending upon what is exposed. Might be able to use a Dremel cut off wheel if you carry a cordless or 12V Dremel to sharpen your chains.
- clutch removal tool: good to have ones that fit your saws in your tool kit. Need to use it with a piston stop and wrench. This is stuff you might have back home but may not bring with you into the field. Have to have good access to remove the saw covers, and is more work, but is another option to keep up your sleeve.
Philbert
- wedges to free the bar: simple, basic, should have them anyways when cutting;
- chainbreaker (Granberg, etc.): fits into the 'might use sometime' category. Might be able to use a punch and anvil, depending upon what is exposed. Might be able to use a Dremel cut off wheel if you carry a cordless or 12V Dremel to sharpen your chains.
- clutch removal tool: good to have ones that fit your saws in your tool kit. Need to use it with a piston stop and wrench. This is stuff you might have back home but may not bring with you into the field. Have to have good access to remove the saw covers, and is more work, but is another option to keep up your sleeve.
Philbert
redheadwoodshed
Freebird
Overalls solves all a man's problems in those areas.
I'm really glad to find out I'm not the only one who can get stuck.I pinched one bad last week.I cut a 24" sweetgum that barberchaired on me, after I got the trunk on the ground I proceeded to cut the stump on down.I started my cut on the side towsrd were the tree fell and man did it have tension going that way.I didn't have enough of the bar in the cut to get a wedge in so I had to cut it out from the other side.
Lesson learned, pay attention to what I'm doing.
Fred Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, that's a gotcha with the Husky outboard clutch. It's a decent design but like the author says, it ain't gonna let you disconnect the powerhead when the chain gets pinched.
I got a pinch in a red maple last year. Had to hike back to the house and get an old bowsaw to free it. I only have the one saw and didn't have felling wedges at the time. After some chewing with the bucksaw, the tree let loose and my Husky landed in a mud puddle. Got it cleaned up and started limbing. Darned if one limb didn't twist and pinch the bar again.
These red maples are something else. Pistol grips and leaners. Long, horizontal limbs halfway up in the tops, carpenter ant infestations. Ya can't always tell what it's gonna do.
I got a pinch in a red maple last year. Had to hike back to the house and get an old bowsaw to free it. I only have the one saw and didn't have felling wedges at the time. After some chewing with the bucksaw, the tree let loose and my Husky landed in a mud puddle. Got it cleaned up and started limbing. Darned if one limb didn't twist and pinch the bar again.
These red maples are something else. Pistol grips and leaners. Long, horizontal limbs halfway up in the tops, carpenter ant infestations. Ya can't always tell what it's gonna do.
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
Exactly the reason I hate outboard clutches, after cutting firewood for sale for 30+ years, I'll pinch occaisionally or one of the other guys, even though I have multiple saws, I've been out by myself with one saw, but always have multiple bars in the truck, it's easy to just take the powerhead off, put a bar and chain on and get out of the mess. Wedges work great for the small stuff, it's not a bad idea to carry a big farm jack either as they work well in taking pressure off.
