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Husqvarna guide bar... what do you recommend.

Den

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I've decided on a 20" bar for my Husqvarna 55.
I'm wanting a factory original, professional grade, Husky bar. No aftermarket or consumer grade stuff.
It should be: .325 pitch, 78 drive link (from what I understand), and either .050 or .058 gauge.

1) Do you recommend .050 or .058 gauge?
2) Would you consider a solid nose 20" bar on this saw?
3) What are the part numbers for Husqvarna's pro-grade 20" bars shown below?
*Solid nose part #
*Sprocket tip part#
*Replaceable sprocket tip part #
4) The bars that say "Farm Tough"... are those all consumer grade bars?

I went to Husqvarna's site, but many of the bars have no picture associated with the part number.
Furthermore, their saw look-up feature only covers current models.
Then Husqvarna does not clarify what 1.3 Pixel means, does not show their solid nose bars, and does not explain the differences between X-Force bars verses other types.
Calling the 800 number for advice was useless because I sat on hold for 35 minutes.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.




.
 

Derf

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I've decided on a 20" bar for my Husqvarna 55.
I'm wanting a factory original, professional grade, Husky bar. No aftermarket or consumer grade stuff.
It should be: .325 pitch, 78 drive link (from what I understand), and either .050 or .058 gauge.

1) Do you recommend .050 or .058 gauge?
2) Would you consider a solid nose 20" bar on this saw?
3) What are the part numbers for Husqvarna's pro-grade 20" bars shown below?
*Solid nose part #
*Sprocket tip part#
*Replaceable sprocket tip part #
4) The bars that say "Farm Tough"... are those all consumer grade bars?

I went to Husqvarna's site, but many of the bars have no picture associated with the part number.
Furthermore, their saw look-up feature only covers current models.
Then Husqvarna does not clarify what 1.3 Pixel means, does not show their solid nose bars, and does not explain the differences between X-Force bars verses other types.
Calling the 800 number for advice was useless because I sat on hold for 35 minutes.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

.
So the Husqvarna 55 isn’t really a pro grade saw, more like a pro-Sumer, farm saw. And Husqvarna OEM bars aren’t really as good as the aftermarket bars. They are generally made by Oregon, and the major complaint is they have a softer steel that wears out faster than other bars. They are like stock tires on a new car... OK to get you going, but there are better options out there. But for a homeowner looking to cut firewood they are fine. If you swing a saw all day look to Tsumura or Sugi-Hara (both made in Japan), or Cannon.

For .325 I like to pair it with 0.050 gauge. For 3/8 I like to pair it with 0.058. No need for more than .325 on a 55cc saw. If you have a 60+cc power head you can use 3/8.

Traditional solid nose means without a bearing sprocket, just a solid groove all the way around the bar. Solid nose is good if you’re doing stumping and get the bar nose into the dirt a lot.
For a non replaceable bearing nose, such as a laminated bar, it means once the bearing goes the whole bar is trash. I generally like replaceable tip solid bars. Laminated bars don’t usually come with replaceable tips. But laminated bars aren’t pro grade.

I don’t know the part numbers, but farm tough bars are consumer grade.

Pixel is a narrow kerf or low profile chain bar. For very small power heads that don’t make a lot of power, it’s easier to pull a low profile chain. On a 55 cc engine it isn’t necessary.

Xforce are their current laminated bars.
 
ammoaddict

ammoaddict

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HT-250-78 is a pro bar with a replaceable tip. .325 .050. Solid bar not laminated. That's the one you want if you have to have a Husqvarna bar.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
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NSEric

NSEric

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The Oregon speed cut (pixel) 20 inch bar/chain works pretty good.
I have the 18 on a 60 cc saw, its semi chisel nk that cuts as fast as full chisel regular chain but stays sharp longer, its not just for small saws.
 

svk

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As mentioned above the Husky bar is just a rebranded Oregon. They are decent in quality and should provide years of use for a recreational wood cutter. But there are better options if you want longevity and/or lighter weight.

I’d just go with a replaceable sprocket nose (RSN) bar in 3/8 .050. I like to shop around for chains and buy them on sale. Being the most common gauge it’s easier to find sales on .050.

Edit: If your saw is set up for .325 you can stay with that. Again I’d stick with the more common .050.
 
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Den

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HT-250-78 is a pro bar with a replaceable tip. .325 .050. Solid bar not laminated. That's the one you want if you have to have a Husqvarna bar.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Yes ammoaddict, I looked at this one on Husqvarna's website and thought it would work well... just was not sure if it is a replaceable sprocket tip, evidently it is.
Derf had suggested the Japanese bars, which I was considering also.
 

Den

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So the Husqvarna 55 isn’t really a pro grade saw, more like a pro-Sumer, farm saw. And Husqvarna OEM bars aren’t really as good as the aftermarket bars. They are generally made by Oregon, and the major complaint is they have a softer steel that wears out faster than other bars. They are like stock tires on a new car... OK to get you going, but there are better options out there. But for a homeowner looking to cut firewood they are fine. If you swing a saw all day look to Tsumura or Sugi-Hara (both made in Japan), or Cannon.
Absolutely Derf,
I've owned Tsumura and Sugihara bars on saws I've sold. (one of each brand to be exact). They looked excellent and I did not want to get rid of them.
Going to have a closer look at them.
Thanks.
 

Den

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Think the item numbers for HT-250-78-20" are as follows.
Old OEM# 608-0000-08
New OEM# 596009078 or possibly 596008978
 

Den

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In an effort to control costs, I think I'll go with a laminated bar, instead of a solid pro bar... at least for right now. Trying to avoid the Husqvarna bars that say "Farm Tough" on them... looks dorky to me.

Going by ammoaddict's chart, I'll get a HL-250-78 bar and corresponding H17-78 chain. This bar will be 20", .325 pitch, and .050 gauge. I assume this is an X-torq labeled bar... right?

Going by "Derf's" advice, I should not need a pixel narrow kerf bar/chain such as the HLN-250-78 on my power head, right?


.
 

svk

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In an effort to control costs, I think I'll go with a laminated bar, instead of a solid pro bar... at least for right now. Trying to avoid the Husqvarna bars that say "Farm Tough" on them... looks dorky to me.

Going by ammoaddict's chart, I'll get a HL-250-78 bar and corresponding H17-78 chain. This bar will be 20", .325 pitch, and .050 gauge. I assume this is an X-torq labeled bar... right?
Laminated should provide you many years of use. Not sure on the bar labeling...seems there's more flashy writing on the bars sold on saws and the replacements tend to just say Husqvarna.
Going by "Derf's" advice, I should not need a pixel narrow kerf bar/chain such as the HLN-250-78 on my power head, right?


.
I do not think NK bar and chain would make much difference in your case. YMMV
 
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jakethesnake

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I have a couple 55s I dig the laminate bars better. They weigh less last a long time and help keep the saw from being nose heavy. I prefer 18 inch bars myself for that specific saw balances better. The 55 is a way underrated saw. Good luck with it I bought my bar for that saw at Lowe’s they usually stock the bar you’d be looking for. I run .050 on mine
 
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Den

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The "Pixel 1.3mm" designation signifies a lo-pro bar/chain if I'm right. Think I'll avoid that one. Part # 508-92 61-80.

I'll just go to the local farm store and see if they have the HL-250-78 and H37-78 chain... which is not a Pixel 1.3mm set up.

Sorry, I just find Husqvarna's website confusing and hard to navigate... especially on bars and chains. Another example is, Husqvarna shows their blue plastic chain/bar gauge in a photo on the website, but they don't offer it anywhere in accessories section, nor can my Husky dealer find it.
 

Den

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I went to the nearest Husqvarna dealer this morning and ordered an HL-250-78 guide bar. It is a 20" replaceable sprocket tip, .325 pitch, .050 gauge Husqvarna bar.
I asked the gentleman for the H37-78 chain, and he said they will simply make up a chain when the bar arrives, and will use full-chisel Husqvarna X-Force chain.
He said this chain is made in Sweden, and that full-chisel chain is still preferable to semi-chisel on my model 55 saw.
Some people have told me full-chisel is too much for my small cubic inch saw, but the dealer assured me full-chisel is perfectly acceptable.
I'll find out in a couple weeks !!
 

svk

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Some people have told me full-chisel is too much for my small cubic inch saw, but the dealer assured me full-chisel is perfectly acceptable.
I'll find out in a couple weeks !!
Those people would be wrong. Chains are sized to the saw based on pitch, not cutter type. Some 55's are equipped with full sized 3/8 and cut just fine.
 
jakethesnake

jakethesnake

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I went to the nearest Husqvarna dealer this morning and ordered an HL-250-78 guide bar. It is a 20" replaceable sprocket tip, .325 pitch, .050 gauge Husqvarna bar.
I asked the gentleman for the H37-78 chain, and he said they will simply make up a chain when the bar arrives, and will use full-chisel Husqvarna X-Force chain.
He said this chain is made in Sweden, and that full-chisel chain is still preferable to semi-chisel on my model 55 saw.
Some people have told me full-chisel is too much for my small cubic inch saw, but the dealer assured me full-chisel is perfectly acceptable.
I'll find out in a couple weeks !!
Bull. I run chisel on my 55. If Sharp it cuts easier. I run lots of chain semi and chisel. When sharp chisel pulls easier. I like semi for edge retention.
 
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