Husqvarna problem...again

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Working on a Husqvarna 350 which I seem to have running fine but when I put the bar and chain back on the tighter I get the bar nuts the tighter the chain gets. When I get it all the way tight you can't turn the chain at all. I've checked the chain brake and that doesn't seem to be the problem. The clutch cover seems to rock back and forth when I tighten the nuts up like it's bowed or something. I had this problem a few years ago with one of these and can't remember what the solution was. I'll check the brake out again tomorrow just to be sure but don't think that's the problem...Help!
 
What sequence do you tighten them?

I've had a similar type of issue with a different model if I tightened the back one first.
 
I don't know, I think I just tightened them both a little at a time. I took the chrome piece off the side cover and tried it like that, didn't make any difference. I have a couple of other Huskys, a 353 and a 346 so I might try the covers from them and see if I have the same result...
 
It appears to me like the chain is rubbing the side cover and the inner side also, the rivets on the chain are real shiny and the rest of the chain isn't...maybe the owner bought too big of a chain for that little saw. Not sure if the chain is a 3/8 or .325 but I know the bar is pulled all the way out to get the chain tight, maybe the bar is too narrow toward the back...
 
It appears to me like the chain is rubbing the side cover and the inner side also, the rivets on the chain are real shiny and the rest of the chain isn't...maybe the owner bought too big of a chain for that little saw. Not sure if the chain is a 3/8 or .325 but I know the bar is pulled all the way out to get the chain tight, maybe the bar is too narrow toward the back...
I belive you have solved your own problem. Pull the numbers on the bar and look it up.
 
Is the tensioner engaging the hole in the bar?

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Is the tensioner engaging the hole in the bar?

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Yes, it has one of the side adjust tensioners and it seems to be working okay, then when I tighten the bar nuts up the thing acts like the chain brake is on, but it isn't.. The chain brake band is back all the way. I'm gonna try a different bar next time I work on it, think I have one on the wall somewhere, if not I'll use my 346 bar, I know it works..
 
Yes, it has one of the side adjust tensioners and it seems to be working okay, then when I tighten the bar nuts up the thing acts like the chain brake is on, but it isn't.. The chain brake band is back all the way. I'm gonna try a different bar next time I work on it, think I have one on the wall somewhere, if not I'll use my 346 bar, I know it works..
The band may be caught on the little fingers inside the cover

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Pop up on the band a bit, like lay the cover down and use a tool to pry up on the band some

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It appears to me like the chain is rubbing the side cover and the inner side also, the rivets on the chain are real shiny and the rest of the chain isn't...maybe the owner bought too big of a chain for that little saw. Not sure if the chain is a 3/8 or .325 but I know the bar is pulled all the way out to get the chain tight, maybe the bar is too narrow toward the back...
My guess is wrong bar
 
Seen a few come in with wrong components between bar and clutch cover or between bar and bar pad, something jambs the chain when the nuts are tightened, seen 3/8 regular chain jamb up as it was too wide/the bar too thin, a couple of shims fixed that.
 
Well, I went out and checked the bar, it was a Husqvarna 18" bar, same type as on my 346, I put them next to each other and they were a complete match, chain was a .325 which was correct. I even took the bar and side cover off my saw and put it on the 350 and it worked okay so it wasn't the chain, possibly my bar might have a few less miles on it. I put the parts back on each saw and the 350 was still sticking. I tried loosening the chain up a few turns and then tightening the nuts up and that helped. When I run the saw enough for the oiler to oil the bar then it seems to be loose enough to return to the owner, he can decide on whether to invest in a new bar or clutch cover but if it was mine I'd just run it as it is, maybe it'll loosen up more.. I was just told to replace the piston and cylinder which were shot, owner ran the saw with the "H" screw almost all the way in...
 
Well, I went out and checked the bar, it was a Husqvarna 18" bar, same type as on my 346, I put them next to each other and they were a complete match, chain was a .325 which was correct. I even took the bar and side cover off my saw and put it on the 350 and it worked okay so it wasn't the chain, possibly my bar might have a few less miles on it. I put the parts back on each saw and the 350 was still sticking. I tried loosening the chain up a few turns and then tightening the nuts up and that helped. When I run the saw enough for the oiler to oil the bar then it seems to be loose enough to return to the owner, he can decide on whether to invest in a new bar or clutch cover but if it was mine I'd just run it as it is, maybe it'll loosen up more.. I was just told to replace the piston and cylinder which were shot, owner ran the saw with the "H" screw almost all the way in...
Its easy to put two flat washers on the studs once the bar is on and then put the outer clutch cover on and tighten the holding nuts, pull the chain and see if it moves easier. Usually will and you can really feel the chain drivers mesh with the rim or spur drive. I also just use the two washer with only the nuts so I can watch the chain drivers mesh, had some old chain that just wouldn`t fit either .325 or 3/8., turned out to be old Pioneer chain.
 
I'm kinda a fan of Husqvarna chainsaws, using them that is, not so much a fan of working on them. I have another rebuild to do now, a 460, well, actually I got most of it done today but still haven't started it yet. I may have to tear it back down if it doesn't run, compression was low and piston/cylinder looked excellent so I just re-sealed it and put in some Caber rings. Tomorrow being Thanksgiving the saw won't see me for another day or so.
 
The Caber rings turned out to be a bad idea, my guess is it had a worn piston and cylinder as it only showed 90 psi of compression when I was done. I've since ordered a new piston and cylinder.
No regular and bore calipers?
 
The piston seemed a bit loose in the bore but thought it was worth a try, measuring tools and some other stuff are still being found from my recent move. Guess I should have labeled stuff like my wife did...By the way, I wasn't knocking Caber rings, they're a good product, I've used them often but in this case I should have opted for a new piston and cylinder.
 
I doubt the bore is worn...its plated. How did the plating look?

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I doubt the bore is worn...its plated. How did the plating look?

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Plating looked smooth, piston looked fairly smooth also. Thought compression might come up if I got it started and broken in but I couldn't get it to start after many tries. Tried priming it also, no luck so I finally just tore it down. While I was out in the garage I went ahead and tore down an 038 which is my next victim...
 
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