Husqvarna Sticky!
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EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Only issue is I feel like I need to go up a little in bar size as I'll lose some length with the large dogs but it's worth a shot to see how well they work with the 24" bar first.
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
I may look for a 28". I'll probably keep my eye out on the forum for a good deal on a 28" bar. First I'm gonna get the full wrap kit with the dogs. Will try the dogs first then may the full wrap.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well washed the small parts for my 2100 build, the ported cylinder is done, the piston rings are fitted, new piston, new pin, needle bearing, new crankbearings, seals, need to assemble the cylinder next. A $75 parts saw turns into a runner. I replaced what ever it needs.
My question is the carb do you change the carb or rebuild the stock carb?
My question is the carb do you change the carb or rebuild the stock carb?
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was stumped ready to throw the towel in. I’m very fussy when it comes to rebuilding anything. First my new piston from red barn didn’t fit the connecting rod. I had an extra new piston rather than Dremel or file the space between the wrist pin holes no biggie I can do that later. I had the crankcase open and didn’t want chips flying around. Next I had installed the crankseals, oil pump, piston and cylinder. Now comes the pressure check. No pressure, change pumps still no pressure, check every gasket and seal for a air leak? How could this be she went together easy no problems. I turn the engine over with the clutch on it so I could spin it with my right hand. My left hand feels a spray of air coming from the ignition side. When they drilled the ignition screw holes one hole goes through into the crankcase thus air leak when the screw is out. The air pump leak down test is holding 10lbs. Let it go but I’m not sure it’s right?
Hoping to fire her up by next weekend. It’s easy from here new fuel line, oil line, filters. Av mounts with washers. This ones my keeper I put everything into this one, my sons will run it.
Hoping to fire her up by next weekend. It’s easy from here new fuel line, oil line, filters. Av mounts with washers. This ones my keeper I put everything into this one, my sons will run it.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oops I did it again, another husky joined my group. A husky 162 an early 162. I have a parts 162 saw already missing some parts. The cylinder is already ported. Now I can complete a 162 build.
So I just thought of it and realized that there was a Husqvarna Sticky here, so hopefully my question may be answered here. Anyways, I just picked up a beat up Husqvarna Rancher 50 I believe. Firstly, I am just looking for possible confirmation on this. As it is a bit rough, I want to run it a bit before replacing parts, although it is complete and the parts are cosmatic fixes. The recoil cover is the worst, again an easy little repair will have it fixed up rather quick, as well as the little patch I will put on the top cover. The biggest thing for me to find will be the missing 'on-off' switch. As of now, the yellow wire was taped with electrical tape under the cover. I am led to believe that the individual just used the choke to turn it off. Are these switches still available, or would someone here know where to get a used one? This is my first Husky, and it seems to be a decent saw considering it is a 1985 model I believe by reading the tag on it. Other than the missing switch, it appears to be all there. And the good part is that it did run after putting a squirt of fuel in teh plug hole. I just want to clean it up a bit before adding gas to it. Thank you.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank you. Gonna take a look at ordering the switch tomorrow evening. And as I did not see it in the service manual, how and where does one ground the switch. I know the yellow wire will go to one side, and then do I just have to make a second wire from the other spade terminal and ground it to the case? Is there a certain spot it is grounded to from factory? Thank you again.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Forgot all about it I need to scribe the ignition mark from the case to the stator. Then remove the stator and file two slots were the securing screws are. Right now the timing is fixed I need to advance it the thickness of the scribed line.plug the govenor/rebuild the carb, mod the muffler, rebuild the handle. New motor mounts with washers, fuel line, oil line and filters.
install the new clutch, drum and 404/8 pin rim, File the gullet in the new 404 chain, Pre lube the bar n chain with moly,
My point is did I forget anything.? Modify the air box so it sucks in more air volume. I think somehow I can add more holes at the bottom before the screen so the first screen will still work.
install the new clutch, drum and 404/8 pin rim, File the gullet in the new 404 chain, Pre lube the bar n chain with moly,
My point is did I forget anything.? Modify the air box so it sucks in more air volume. I think somehow I can add more holes at the bottom before the screen so the first screen will still work.
Sorry guys. I need help! Took the carb off to replace the rotten fuel line and in doing so, the linkage came out with the throttle. Does anyone know how or where it belongs? I read the service manual and it says to disconnect when removing the carburetor, but it just came out together. If someone has a picture of it, it would be greatly appreciated. As of now, I am playing with it trying to figure it out. Thank you.
Well, just a little update. After my little case of stupidity, my dad and I tried to start it. Go to fill the tank and teh smell was horrible! There was a bit of gas left in it, and when dumping it out, it was all yellow! So I put in some fresh fuel, swished it around and repeated the process. Filled the tank approximately 1/2 full and tried firing it up. A little squirt in the cylinder and it was running. However, that was short lived. So my dad gave a little squirt in the carb and I fired it up again and started very nicely. But, it would only run with the fuel being squirted in the carburetor. Took teh carburetor back off again to inspect it. All seemed good, it would probably benefit from a carburetor rebuild, but used the original parts and gaskets after cleaning it out. Disassembled it and soaked it in some fresh fuel, carefully blew it out to make sure all orfices were clear. Reassembled it and gave it one more try. Fired up right away as before, but this time it stayed running. I am so happy now. All I now have to do is do some minor adjusting with the carburetor, otherwise all should be well. I have a local spot that can get me the switch for $5, so will order that tomorrow morning, do some minor repairs to the recoil and should be good. The only other thing is I just noticed a possible small leak somewhere in the fuel tank. I will be looking for that better when I clean up the saw this weekend.
Well, today I called the dealer to order the $5 switch he quoted me yesterday and said it would be here the day after ordering. So when I called, he said since he didn't try one before and that fact they were only $5 he ordered it immediately after I called yesterday. Then he told me it was there. So I went after work to pick it up. Came home and installed it with no luck, as there was apparently no ground. So I used a jumper wire just to see if the switch actually worked, and it did. Rather than make a jumper wire, I drilled a small hole in the case where the lower 'tab' with big hole was and tapped it for a small screw. I then put the screw in and tried it. It started very easily and ran. Then I tried the switch. It worked! So I then removed and cleaned the two chains that came with the saw, and put them on my grinder. I wish I took before pictures as I do not know how, or if these chains ever cut? There was NO gullet, and all the teeth were way back compared to what they should look like. This is the main reason I instantly put them on my grinder, and hey, I love playing with my new toy too! So Hopefully this weekend I will go to my buddies to cut a couple small trees that are standing deadfall so I can try it out. ANyways, I will attach a picture here of teh screw I installed (blue arrow) and see if anyone thinks I did anything wrong or not by doing this. All I have left to do is repair the recoil housing, and I would like to get to that tomorrow so when and if I get out this weekend it will be ready to go.
