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Thnak you. I was kind of thinking that and I was going to make one, then did not see where to mount it to. I thought about under the screw in the corner of the air filter housing on the left side then decided a screw would be easier and quicker. Also, I was slightly worried of the housing cracking if there was something under it. Thanks for letting me know that there were some with a ground strap as I was going squirrely trying to figure that out....
 
My early husky 162se arrived today. This one has the screw in the middle of the top cover as well as the sides. She’s one of the first 162se models I believe. Pics to follow, another one for the operating table, new bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, I have a ported cylinder already.

These older saws remind me of the 283/327 Chevy engines when we compare the 162/266 I think we can ring out more rpm with the smaller cc saw.
 
Well, time for another update. Got my Husky Rancher 50 pretty much completed today. Now all the outside is fixed up, not all original looking, but will function. The 'repairs' are hobby aluminum and tin I have here from building my RC planes. This will now be my 'new' big saw. I will try to get a completed picture in a short while. Also, if I may ask. I would like to replace both the fuel and oil tank cap 'o-rings', as teh fuel tank issue mentioned earlier was in my opinion o-ring related. When I looked at it again today, the saw was wet in the rear area. I then looked and saw it was dry above the gas cap, but about halfway down the cap, it was wet. So when I looked at the cap o-ring, I saw it looked fragile, and indeed it was. It just broke when barely touching it. My dad brought his o-ring kit over, but all the ones he had were of a bigger diameter. Is there a specific o-ring for this saw, or do I just keep trying on small ones till it fits as the original did. For now, it sits a bit further out than originally did, but is does seal! Thank you.
 
Here are a couple pictures. As much as I want to replace the recoil housing, I will leave it because to me it tells a story of its life!
20190815_195020.jpg 20190815_195032.jpg
 
There's a used running 2100cd for sale locally for $200! Little rough but wow.

Can’t beat that price it’s a new beginning of a awesome saw. For $200 I’d buy them all day long at that price, for a 6 cube /100 cc saw. The first thoughts is crankbearings, crankseals, gaskets, rings if the piston is ok. It will outlast my lifetime.

I love big power heads I can not lie, it's the brute force I like.
 
How about comparing a 372xp/71 cc / 13.9 lbs to a 570xp /68cc/14.9 lbs? I asked this because I noticed the pro loggers running smaller mid sized power heads, ported with longer bars. If not what’s your favorite mid sized ported saw?

I’m sure there are cutters / fellers who operated both?
 
Well, time for another update. Got my Husky Rancher 50 pretty much completed today. Now all the outside is fixed up, not all original looking, but will function. The 'repairs' are hobby aluminum and tin I have here from building my RC planes. This will now be my 'new' big saw. I will try to get a completed picture in a short while. Also, if I may ask. I would like to replace both the fuel and oil tank cap 'o-rings', as teh fuel tank issue mentioned earlier was in my opinion o-ring related. When I looked at it again today, the saw was wet in the rear area. I then looked and saw it was dry above the gas cap, but about halfway down the cap, it was wet. So when I looked at the cap o-ring, I saw it looked fragile, and indeed it was. It just broke when barely touching it. My dad brought his o-ring kit over, but all the ones he had were of a bigger diameter. Is there a specific o-ring for this saw, or do I just keep trying on small ones till it fits as the original did. For now, it sits a bit further out than originally did, but is does seal! Thank you.
Thicker o-rings were introduced in the late 1980s (I think it's still 503 26 30-17). Since then new designed caps have also replaced the original spare part. (501 81 96-02). A cap from a 154, 254, 257, 262 will fit.

I temporarily stopped my 154 fuel cap leaking 30 years ago by winding a layer of thin Teflon plumbing tape around the outside. It's still there. It still seals. (You probably can't quite see it it my profile picture.)
 
Thank you. I will just run it as is for a bit, and see how it holds up, but as of now, there has not been a leak yet, so it is working. I called yesterday and the o-ring is $6 CAD, and the new cap was just under $11. So if I do anything, I will simply replace the caps.
 
Here are a couple pictures. As much as I want to replace the recoil housing, I will leave it because to me it tells a story of its life!
View attachment 753501 View attachment 753502

I think that looks pretty cool. Like a frankensaw. I like to keep things clean and shiny but anything that's well used is going to end up with some character. Some things are meant to wear and a saw is one of them.
 
And on another note regarding my Husky Rancher 50. The air filter seems to want to detach itself from the bracket it 'snaps' into. Is this a common problem, or is there some sort of retainer I am missing? Can I just zip tie it together so it does not seperate again? Thanks.
 
Rev limiter ignitions?

What year Husqvarna did the rev limiters appear?

What color is the rev limiter ignition?

Thanks for your help, bill
 
And on another note regarding my Husky Rancher 50. The air filter seems to want to detach itself from the bracket it 'snaps' into. Is this a common problem, or is there some sort of retainer I am missing? Can I just zip tie it together so it does not seperate again? Thanks.
As well as choking the intake when slid upwards, the metal part of the choke slide should effectively hold the filter in place when the choke is off. Check that this is not bent or broken and that the thick moulded plastic spars inside the filter are not damaged or broken. It's also possible that wear due to vibration over time has loosened the snap-m connection.
 

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Thank you. I will get a picture of the metal part tomorrow afternoon and post it. As for the air filter, yes, one of the 4 pieces that extend to the center 'ball' is broken, but the remaining 3 are very solid.
 
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