Hutzl fake 372 problem

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Scott chandler

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I purchased one of these because it was cheap. I have a 372 and it’s the best saw i own so thought if this fake one is half the saw it would be worth the money. Well it ran for about 20 minutes and acted like it wasn’t getting fuel. It will start if you hold throttle open after choking but runs rough as if it weren’t getting fuel. Any suggestions on where to start. This was a brand new saw ordered from hutzl. Thanks for suggestions
 
Toby that’s a thought. I agree with the Chinamens taking over. I don’t know what i was thinking. I don’t cut for a living but do cut a lot of wood and big stuff too. Just thought for the price and until you get to looking on the inside they sure look alike. But even while it was running - needs fine tuning- it wasn’t even close to the screaming oem and lacks the torque. I’m thinking if i let it sit and allow tank to vent it should run or take cap off and on that will diagnose the vent problem. Gonna go try theory out now. If it is the carb would you try to clean or just replace with - will an oem carb work on this saw ? Really haven’t compared or looked at both. Man i would never take parts off ole Betsy to try on the hutzl. Be a sin Thanks for the replies
 
I know there are a few parts on the hutzel saws that need oem replacements. Carbs can be one.
 
You could swap carbs as long as both are oe or XT saws. That would rule out carb. Did you start at 1 turn out on am carb to start.
 
I didn’t turn a thing. Filled it up and started up - ran fair with a couple short logs and then cut off from an idle. What is am carb ? Aftermarket ? This hutzl has original carb. Haven’t changed out yet. Should i adjust on carb Never really adjusted a carb to my satisfaction myself.
 
I would close the H L needles, open L 1-1/2 turns out, H 1 turn out and adjust from there, if it starts and idles.
 
Got home too late too fool with it but i will definitely tackle by Saturday - you would think the Chinaman that was at the end of the line would at least get it close before sending out - so you think it may be just need tuning ?
 
I would seriously consider the tank vent too. I got one their junk. I drilled mine out n JB plastic it shut. drilled a hole n put in a hose vent. (That’s not the screw I ended up using, and that hole was there but had to drill one further south so the line wasn’t bent shut) Flywheel key had sheared on first pop. Took a long while to get it to run. Now it’s ripping a$$!!! I thought it was the carb the whole time.
 

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Will do jr - i appreciate the pic. I turned H and L and i couldn’t get it to start or even hit. L was several turns out and H was a little more than 2 turns before i started turning. Should i keep turning cc until it starts. Got tired of pulling ! I’m going to check flywheel and coil as well just to make sure so,etching hasn’t slipped - can’t hurt. Any other suggestions
 
Once I fixed my key and got my tank vented so it wasn’t vapor locked it started on about the 3rd pull. Now it’s one of my top quickest starters. Carb settings on mine weren’t drastically past stock. Maybe a little n I’m ported big bore. I would still start out near factory settings. If none of that helps keep after the experts for some advice. This is the best I can do. They will run.
 
Oh btw. Pour some fuel fix straight in the plug hole. Put a dry plug in. If it won’t pop like that u either got carb or coil issue I’d think. Or flywheel key. Make sure you’ve already yanked out the stupid decomp valve n put a plug in that hole those decomp are notorious junk. N both spark plug n decomp plug are tight. Not thread damaging tight but tight. My plug hole seeped a little until I gave it a healthy snugging up.
 
It’s a pos fellas. Wished i would have spent money on a used husky that needed p/c rebuild. I haven’t vented tank but it’s obvious it’s not getting fuel. It’s got good spark but when looking at flywheel at coil the gap is much wider than the huskies i have and the top of coil looks like it is sitting crooked even though it does have a pretty good spark. When i put fuel in spark plug hole it hit but didn’t run very long at all. The low jet was originally turned almost 5 rounds out and the high 3 rounds out. Which increases fuel turning out or in ?
 
It’s a pos fellas. Wished i would have spent money on a used husky that needed p/c rebuild. I haven’t vented tank but it’s obvious it’s not getting fuel. It’s got good spark but when looking at flywheel at coil the gap is much wider than the huskies i have and the top of coil looks like it is sitting crooked even though it does have a pretty good spark. When i put fuel in spark plug hole it hit but didn’t run very long at all. The low jet was originally turned almost 5 rounds out and the high 3 rounds out. Which increases fuel turning out or in ?
Turning out increases fuel. Low jet should be 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 out, high 3/4 to 1 turn out.
 
It’s a pos fellas. Wished i would have spent money on a used husky that needed p/c rebuild. I haven’t vented tank but it’s obvious it’s not getting fuel. It’s got good spark but when looking at flywheel at coil the gap is much wider than the huskies i have and the top of coil looks like it is sitting crooked even though it does have a pretty good spark. When i put fuel in spark plug hole it hit but didn’t run very long at all. The low jet was originally turned almost 5 rounds out and the high 3 rounds out. Which increases fuel turning out or in ?

Did you gap coil with a business card? Why is it sitting crooked? You should correct that anyway. See if your tank is pressurized after trying to start it. Vent the tank if it is.
 
Open your carb n see if there’s actually fuel in it? Double check orientation of gaskets n diaphragms make sure there not flip flopped.
 
I been temped to buy a HUS365 for a toy to play with but,,,,,,not good news.
I have over 50 husky saws sitting here, I’m a hoarder I admit it.

I did buy a huztl / farmtec 372 replacement new engine for my husky 372 Xp saw but haven’t had the time yet.
 

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