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hydraulic issue Bandit 90xp

epdubbs

epdubbs

New Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Messages
4
Location
United States
I am just starting in the cutting/chipping world and after saving up money purchased a used Brush Bandit 90xp. Ran great for a few hours, shows relatively light use. It began running rough to the point that it was stalling out and rough to restart. Replaced coil, fuel lines, filter. Pump produces plenty of pressure. I found that where the injection manifold adapter meets the adapter plate was extremely loose, so I took it apart, tightened it, and put it back together. It runs better, but not as good as it was, so I fiddled with the timing and it seems better. Still not perfect, backfires intermittently.

Now, the feed wheels will stop with nearly any pressure from a piece of dry wood on them. I don't know much about autofeed, but it makes no difference whether plugged in or not. The tach looks tired. It has a new hydraulic pump in it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to start? Don't have the money for a dealer. I'm quite mechanically able, just not familiar with chippers.

Furthermore, could a bad tach interfere with how it is running as well as the feed wheel issue? Thanks in advance.
 
lone wolf

lone wolf

MS 200T King
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
54,601
Location
Prowling The Pine Barrens
I am just starting in the cutting/chipping world and after saving up money purchased a used Brush Bandit 90xp. Ran great for a few hours, shows relatively light use. It began running rough to the point that it was stalling out and rough to restart. Replaced coil, fuel lines, filter. Pump produces plenty of pressure. I found that where the injection manifold adapter meets the adapter plate was extremely loose, so I took it apart, tightened it, and put it back together. It runs better, but not as good as it was, so I fiddled with the timing and it seems better. Still not perfect, backfires intermittently.

Now, the feed wheels will stop with nearly any pressure from a piece of dry wood on them. I don't know much about autofeed, but it makes no difference whether plugged in or not. The tach looks tired. It has a new hydraulic pump in it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to start? Don't have the money for a dealer. I'm quite mechanically able, just not familiar with chippers.

Furthermore, could a bad tach interfere with how it is running as well as the feed wheel issue? Thanks in advance.
Call Bandits 1 800 number.
 
iowagold

iowagold

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
76
Location
Ottumwa, Iowa 52501 usa
Website
www.poustusa.com
well first things we need first year of mfg, and engine and fuel? hours on the hour meter?

do you have hyd test equipment? if so what kinds? flow and pressure are needed.
note: always use gauges and test hoses that are 2x the rated pressure you need to test for safety.
watch for injection hazard! and bad hoses and cracked fittings!!

a basic load test of the engine is always a good idea before purchase..

check the basics on the engine.
air filter, fuel filter, fuel tank filter some have screens in the bottom of the fuel tanks.
compression test, check the valve settings if they are adjustiable for your engine. big thing on honda powered.
some may have hyd lifters for no set valves on other brands like on modern cars.
fuel, make sure it is good fuel!,
for gasoline engines carb is it clean? when was the last time? compression test! big deal!! and cyl leak down test. also a big deal!!
diesel, any thing over 4000 hours a good tear down is a good idea. head gaskets, clean combustion chamber. a good inspection.
only if you are having power issues!

places to look on the machine.
hyd system first.
hyd filters and screens and suction filters...
also look for inline screens in the hose loops.
a basic pressure test is always a good idea!! flow test also.
check the relief pressure settings. do not adjust unless you are a pro!! bad things can happen!!
watch for sabotage on the machine like paper towels or rags in the hyd tank.

electrical... if fly by wire controls
stuck operation valves or other things can load up the machine to dead head the pump..

these are just a few things that are in my day as a repair tech!!
 
ChoppyChoppy

ChoppyChoppy

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
9,863
Age
37
Location
AK
Can you explain that 4000hr comment about a tear down?

I've got iron that has 5-6x that in hours and hasn't been touched engine wise aside from usual maintenance items. I'd be disappointed to only get 4k hours out of a diesel engine actually.
 
iowagold

iowagold

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
76
Location
Ottumwa, Iowa 52501 usa
Website
www.poustusa.com
"only if you are having power issues!"
I think that covered the why!!


4000 hours is 240k miles. at least when you think of these as road engines.

unless this is a Cummins diesel engine. they like full tear down inspections at 7000 - 8000 hours or 500k miles

4000 hours or 10 years this is at the limits where head gaskets start to fail like on the perkins, Kubota and deutz
and it is a good idea to look at injectors and glow plugs (if they have them) at this time

cat and jd engines that are real not import made for those brands
are some where in the 5000 - 6000 hour range for inspection tear down..

sure you can run this stuff till it quits...
for failure some get any where from 3,000 to well over 15,000 hours depending on the oils and filters used...
but with proper TLC these engines can last many life times!

diesels run from $6k and up in replacement cost..
most hover at that $10k to $20k on a rebuilt on the large stuff.
this is on the smaller lower than 500hp units.

so for a duetz that runs engine oil for coolant a head gasket failure could be a BIG issue..
if it is a hot day and the engine gets run away...
a simple $1000 inspection can save a $20k engine replacement.

lots of gear out there for sale right now...
most have a real good reason why they are selling like it is tired equipment.
always have your mechanic look at it first!! then buy!
this is money well spent!!
for my good clients here this is a free service as long as I do not have to travel to see the new item. if I have to travel then the travel expense is on the client.

and I always say any gear over 3k hours and 10 years old save back $5k to $10k for hoses, rubber etc on gear that was under $50k new
or at least 10% of what the value retail of the machine as new for parts when you buy a good looking running machine.

and all machinery is worth 50% of new price or less after 10 years...
if it is in good shape.
 
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