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I-Beam Size?

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by keaton64, Mar 13, 2006.

  1. keaton64

    keaton64 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I have a 4" x 8" (10.16cm x 20.32cm) i-beam that is probably 3/8" to 1/2" (.95cm to 1.27cm) thick, would this be strong enough to not bend if i used a 4" (10.16cm) cylinder.
     
  2. Gypo Logger

    Gypo Logger Timber Baron

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    Not sure, if it will stand up, it depends on GPM your pump can deliver and the motor you are using and cyl size and stroke.
    I find that some splitters have too long of a stroke, not only decreasing cycle tiime but also allowing the push block to exert too much leverage which is ultimately born on the vertical wedge and therefore the beam, causing flex or worse, bending and stress cracks.
    I used to be a stocking dealer for Brute out of Ludlow Vermont and owned two FC105's at that time coupled with comveyers. Which doesn't make me an expert, but I sure split alot of wood though.
    John
     
  3. mdlmjohnson

    mdlmjohnson ArboristSite Lurker

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    I'm not sure, either. A 4" cylinder, operating at 3000psi will generate a bit less than 19 tons ram force. Is the 3/8" to 1/2" the web or the flange thickness? H beams come in a range of weights and strength varies accordingly. There are doubtless sources on the web for calculation of resistance to flex and twist.

    By way of comparison, for whatever help it may be, Timberwolf"s TW-3HD splitter (a quality machine) uses a 5" cylinder, develops 22 tons ram force (so it is operating at about 2250psi) and uses a 6.5" beam (weight unspecified).

    The splitter I am building uses a 59#/ft 8x8 H beam, which I am re-enforcing with gussets and end plates. But then, again, I am going to be operating at 2750-3000psi, which means 25-30 tons ram force.

    Sounds like you'd probably be OK, but I'd get some strength data on it before building.

    Hope this helps.
     
  4. CaseyForrest

    CaseyForrest I am NOT a tree freak.

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    Ive got a 4.5" cylinder on a 8x8 with 1/2 top and bottom plate and 1/2 web. I am running psi at 3000. No problems, even if the wedge stops and pressure hits the relief, no twisting or flexing.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2006
  5. mdlmjohnson

    mdlmjohnson ArboristSite Lurker

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    That's mighty reassuring, Casey, since I am using an 8x8 also. I see that you have gussets under the end plate, too. I hope that I can do as good a job.
     
  6. CaseyForrest

    CaseyForrest I am NOT a tree freak.

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    The reason those gussets are there is because originally I had the wedge welded where the stop is now. I built my wedge to wide to soon and it wouldnt split, So I bought the wedge thats on there now and welded my bush block where the wedge use to be.
     
  7. Gypo Logger

    Gypo Logger Timber Baron

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    Nice set up Casey.
    John
     
  8. CaseyForrest

    CaseyForrest I am NOT a tree freak.

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    Thanks John.
     
  9. mdlmjohnson

    mdlmjohnson ArboristSite Lurker

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    I wondered why the re-enforcement plates for the stop had holes. :confused: Now, I understand. :clap:

    I'm putting gussets under the cylinder anchor and wedge and welding end plates at both ends of the beam.
     
  10. turnkey4099

    turnkey4099 Tree Freak

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    Not sure. Our shop built models started with square tubing for the armature. Too much flex, added another square tube to the bottom - fixed. The fix is simple if you do get flex. Just add a structual shape to the bottom of the I beam. Another I-beam, square or rect tube, etc. Depth, IMO, is more important than web size in eliminating flex.

    Harry K
     
  11. keaton64

    keaton64 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks for all the help. I hope to have some pictures as soon as I start the construction.
     

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