I can't hand file a chain!

[ConservationNation]

I've been cutting for a little over a year now, and I just CANNOT hand file a chain right!
Lately I've been free handing my chains, and they are VERY sharp, but the top plates are getting too long on the left side, and they're chipping!
I've been filing at 25°, and matching my file to the cutting edge with a downward pressure. What am I doing wrong?
Can somebody walk me through freehanding step by step? There's no reason it should be this hard.

 

[redoakman]

im sorry but i cant see waht your problem is in this picture( edit i see now what kinda file are you useing to files this chain and what chain is this lgx?)

 

[sunfish]

Don't do the downward pressure. Back and slightly up pressure. Light pressure & sharp files will give best results.

 

[FishNJ]

Don't for get the rakers. Doesn't look like they've been hit in the pic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ConservationNation]

im sorry but i cant see waht your problem is in this picture( edit i see now what kinda file are you useing to files this chain and what chain is this lgx?)

3/8 LGX, and 7/32 files. Should be right.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Man, I've never even tried, it just LOOKED like something I'd suck at. I bought a decent electric sharpener/grinder and made sure I had enough chains to last the day.

 

[JonCraig]

If it helps, I find it harder to get a chain right again if it has gone really dull. It seems that if I swap chains earlier in the day, they're easier to sharpen (takes fewer strokes), and the angles seem to be more consistent. Basically, the less thinking I have to do, the better. My $0.02, ymmv

 

[clinchscavalry]

I have vastly improved on my technique in the last few years. Since going to work for the county road dept. I have many opportunities to sharpen saws, especially when one of my co-workers tries to cut asphalt

Like someone else says, use a good file. They're cheap, and when they start to clog up and quit removing metal chunk them and get a fresh one. I always use a file handle. It just makes life so much better! Follow the guide mark on the chain (if available) and push slightly up and into the tooth, not down against the link. Don't rock the file. Keep it going to and fro in the same plane. Right handers like me find it much easier to sharpen with the powerhead to the left, so I always start with the most difficult position with the bar facing left.

I like the saw to be about belly level so I use a board across the rails of my small pickup. However a vise is even better unless it's so low it hurts your back.

Don't wait until you're throwing powder. Sharpen frequently a little rather than infrequently a lot.

Finally, I count the strokes on each tooth and do the exact number on the entire chain to avoid taking off more metal here and there.

Sometimes I get the angles a little off, and it shows up in poor cutting or a chain getting dull too soon, but with repetition and consistency, you'll have a decent chain to work with and one that's a pleasure compared to a dull and inconsistently filed P.O.S.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Try to find someone near you that can use a file to show you how. Once you learn how it's a good feeling to sink that chain and see great chips fly and know that you did it. @clinchscavalry gave some great pointers.

 

[happysaws]

Consider picking up a decent Grandberg, Oregon or similar bar mount file guide, they are cheap, and will help you get the feel of free-hand filing a chain. Learning how to use them and setting them up can be tricky, but they help keep angles and lengths even.

Of course always have sharp files, I usually get a new file after 5-10 sharpenings, depending upon chain length and condition.
Don't drag the file backwards, always pick it up, it'll last much longer that way.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Definitely what sunfish said. That downward pressure is causing you to put too much hook on em. It would probably be better to give a few swipes with a double bevel flat file to get caught back up.

 

[Conquistador3]

It took me twenty years to finally do it right and even these days I often screw it up.
It's just one of those things you are naturally inclined to or will always have problems doing right.

 

[Little Al]

If it were me I would spend a few $'s on a correct size Husky roller filing guide it will keep you to the correct file depth you can then if you wish copy the profile free hand

 

[Khntr85]

I know this sounds simple, but find someone that can file and watch them....hard to describe in words for me...

There are many small things to keep into consideration

 

[Okie]

First thing is:
Make sure you are using the correct size file.

And if you are hand filing using one of them file guides that rests on the top of the tooth and raker, like this one
Oregon 5/32-Inch Chain Saw Filing Guide 37534
so as to give the file the correct height on the tooth when filing and the tooth is worn about 1/2 way back (1/2 worn out) the chain will not cut very good because the file is being held too high on the tooth by the guide. (the raker is holding the guide and file little bit too high on the tooth) You have to file the raker down first to the proper depth then sharpen. (and this tip is not in the book)
This is another reason to learn to hand file without a file guide.
Also you have to use the correct size file in these type hand guides. (and some of these type guides are not even stamped for the correct size file)

and even when you think you are great at hand sharpening you will take a saw you did not test at the house to the wood lot and it will not even cut warm butter. (at least you did not pay someone to sharpen it wrong)

Some dead trees are really hard on a chain. I stay away from dead black jacks and elms.
Can see sparks coming off the chain on some of the black jack limbs and even green black jacks ALWAYS have some dead limbs that are hard as a flint rock.

 

[Bill Becker]

Try the Stihl 2 in 1 file guide. They are actually made by Pferd. Stihl carries 3 sizes, Pferd also has the size for the .404 pitch chain. You need to get the right size for your saw. I keep these on all the trucks and all my guys know how to use them. We sharpen the chains once per 2 fillups. This is the best I've used.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[happysaws]

.....(the raker is holding the guide and file little bit too high on the tooth) You have to file the raker down first to the proper depth then sharpen. (and this tip is not in the book).....

Sharpen the teeth first, then the rakers. If you set the rakers at .025", and then sharpen the teeth, your rakers will actually be around .021-.023, depending upon what brand and style of chain it is.

 

[redunshee]

Definitely what sunfish said. That downward pressure is causing you to put too much hook on em. It would probably be better to give a few swipes with a double bevel flat file to get caught back up.

My thought exactly. Too much hook ,i.e. file riding too low . A good hint is to look at a new chain. You'll see that the side plate is almost vertical. That's what ur trying to accomplish.

 

[sunfish]

If it were me I would spend a few $'s on a correct size Husky roller filing guide it will keep you to the correct file depth you can then if you wish copy the profile free hand

Those actually work very well & are easy to use.

 

[ConservationNation]

Thanks for the help guys, lots of good advice!