I have a Partner 500 that will not start ?

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Rowan said:
Probably noticed me lurking on this thread.....

I'm intrested in how it turns out... take as many pics etc as possible. Hang in there these are fun saws. I tore apart a Jred 590 a few years ago and never got around to putting it back together..... I ended up getting a 490 top end from a gentlemen I found on this site. Actually come to think of it that's what brought me to this site. This has me thinking that perhaps I should try to get this thing back together.

The 590 top end looks like it lean-failed. I didn't do a vac test prior to pulling it apart (Noob). Anyhow I remember looking at the impulse gromment and thinking that it looks poor. Earlier in this thread it sounded as if you could get more of these.... if so where would I look for one? Also when I do get it back together I'll likely vac test... If I have a seal leak, does anyone know where I might get a seal kit?

Good Luck Jeff, sounds like you've got some people giving good advice.
Click to expand...

Hey there Rowan... looks like you live about 45 minutes from me.

For the induction pipe (P/N 503161602) and impulse grommet (P/N 505310751) you can pick up from your husky dealer. They are the same as the 55 Husky saw.

I usually get my seals from Banta Saws in Eastern Ontario. They are very good and I usually receive the parts the next day.
Here is a link to the seals on their website.

Banta Saw - Small Engine Parts and Accessories




Or for a complete gasket set

Banta Saw - Small Engine Parts and Accessories

Rowan if you want to get together sometime I can vac/pressure or compression test your saw.
 
Woodplayer said:
Hey there Rowan... looks like you live about 45 minutes from me.

For the induction pipe (P/N 503161602) and impulse grommet (P/N 505310751) you can pick up from your husky dealer. They are the same as the 55 Husky saw.

I usually get my seals from Banta Saws in Eastern Ontario. They are very good and I usually receive the parts the next day.
Here is a link to the seals on their website.

Banta Saw - Small Engine Parts and Accessories




Or for a complete gasket set

Banta Saw - Small Engine Parts and Accessories

Rowan if you want to get together sometime I can vac/pressure or compression test your saw.
Click to expand...



Thanks a million..... I may take you up on that offer. Not sure when I'll get back to working on that saw.... but when I do I'll definately want to vac test it prior to running it.

PS What I'd really like to do is cut some wood..... I've recently aquired a 046 and have yet to get it into some wood. IF you have a wood pile and want a hand cutting for a few hours or something let me know.
 
Uh so I just read this entire thread.

Break it down for us.

Took it apart 20 times rebulit and tested everything 20times you added a gasket without what? a proper cut or notch outta the impulse circuit and now it runsssss. :rock:

I love these tough fixes with a happy ending stories. time to put er to work now
 
Rowan said:
SO how did you get it running????
Click to expand...

well later on after everyone has a chance to see the pics and ask questions I will post I jut need to run some errons around the house first.One of the guys is about to post some picks for me I dont know how ,the first were the ones everybody wanted last night and the second batch is the finished products.
 
Well the picks were alot of the other guys Idea so I thought I would wait but I would probably just end up answering questions till the wee hours so.
I came home and took the saw apart again the piston was windowless and the jug was closed port .Therre was a matter chance that I put the wrong jug with the wrong piston and that is what I wanted to know.I based my opinion on what saw used open port and what used closed from a man I just bought a junked 5000 from it was all apart in the bed of this truck so when he told me that the open port jug he gave me went with the 5000 i just bought I did not really question it.I said so open is 5000 and closed is 500 ? he said yup but all the pistons are the same.So armed with this knowledge I put the only good looking piston i had in this closed port cylinder.I took the carb off and when i did the gas line the gas fountained up from it.I thought that was odd becaues there should have been no pressure in the base because I had not pulled the saw over for about 20 hours? In my opinion the saw was always flooded so i took the vent filter/canister out of the vent line and you could hear a pffffsssstttt as the pressure escaped.I figured the vent was keeping pressuer against the diaphram and keeping the saw flooded? But I was this far so I took off the jug and piston and tore off the base gasket.I called my saw shop to order a base gasket and oh yea got a kid on the phone never heard of a base gasket the man I wanted to speak to was on the rd.Now I was sick of the thought of a wait for him to call so I made my own from .20 felpro gasket material and put her on.Now I was going to wait to get my photos posted and ask if the closed port cylinder should be swaped out for an Open port one i had.I am impaitent so I decided to go ahead and change the jug as that was the only thing I could change as i only have the piston that was in the saw at this time. I put the carb back on tuned it in and put in a new plug as per quite a few requests.By the way the Napa store wher i got the plug had never heard of a Partner saw. I changed the vent plug to one I had and pulled the coard.Three pulls and she sat Idling on the floor. In my opinion the piston needed a diffrent jug and the vent filter was NOT working as it kept constant pressure in the carb.
I want to thank everyone for all the advice and the picture from "WOODPLAYER" that allowed me to see what the base gasket was supposed to look like in relation to the Impluse nipple. THANK YOU ALL thanks for the support.I really wanted to try one more time before i got any advice I wanted to do it on my own as much as I could," turns out I just may be cuts out for this after all !"Excues any typos as I am about sick of typing!~!!
 
Actually most saws are designed to work with a pressurized fuel tank, the vent is basically one way allowing air in to avoid a vacuum but permitting the tank to become pressurized. The metering needle/seat/spring work together to prevent fuel from entering the carburetor unless there is a demand for it cause by consumption through the carburetor.

In any case, good to know it is working and now you have learned at least on lesson on getting the story straight before swapping pistons and cylinders in the future.

Thanks for keeping us informed.

Mark
 
heimannm said:
Actually most saws are designed to work with a pressurized fuel tank, the vent is basically one way allowing air in to avoid a vacuum but permitting the tank to become pressurized. The metering needle/seat/spring work together to prevent fuel from entering the carburetor unless there is a demand for it cause by consumption through the carburetor.

In any case, good to know it is working and now you have learned at least on lesson on getting the story straight before swapping pistons and cylinders in the future.

Thanks for keeping us informed.

Mark
Click to expand...

Well he did tell me one thing that helped,"you should go to that arborist site I go there and post there all the time".
 
Last edited:
I don't think the vent had anything to do with your problem. Modern saws run with positive pressure on the tank to prevent fumes escaping. It squirting fuel when you disconnect it from the carb is pretty routine. As for the open port/closed port- 500's were OP, 5000's were OP, 5000+ were OP initially and then switched to CP (it might be that 5000's were initially OP and then switched to CP, and 5K+'s were all CP). I have it in some PM's from a pretty knowledgeable member). I have a couple of 5K+ CP. I'm glad you got your saw going. I love Partners, in many ways they were ahead of the field.

I also see you made your own gasket. You should check the squish (distance from the top of the piston to the cylinder at the periphery of the cylinder). It should be something greater than .018". You can toast the top of the piston with much less. You can use solder wire inserted through the plug hole and pushed against the cylinder wall. I check it along the wrist pin axis. If it is less than .020", I also check it 90° to those two measurements. Also, I believe a Husky 350 is a direct swap for the 500.

BTW, do you work for the gubbermint? You shore are wordy.
 
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I guess I could have said It Runsssss oh did tha and no one was happy with that ,This has been going on for 3 days a lot has happend so I dont know what to tell ya. and yea I am from the Goverment,....And I'm here to help.
 

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