I ported a timberpro 6150

[NSEric]

So I just went to the garage to port the saw, after removing the muffler, I got the bright idea to ram the cylinder full of rags and just raise the top of the exhaust port, it took under 10 minutes and came out fine even tho it was probely the rudest, crudest port job ever lol. The hardest part was getting a tiny piece of sand paper in there to take the sharp edge off the port, my finger just fit.
The saw gained a few rpm and a little more power but nothing to write home about, its still more torquey than revvy so I didn't hurt its power lower in the revs at all, the exhaust port is about 1/8 of an inch higher than stock now.
Im done porting it unless I can buy a bolt on bigger intake and carb, they're killing its rpm imo.

 

[Leafy]

They are. If you have a saw with an external impulse line I've got the intake and carb setup for you

 

[blsnelling]

So I just went to the garage to port the saw, after removing the muffler, I got the bright idea to ram the cylinder full of rags and just raise the top of the exhaust port, it took under 10 minutes and came out fine even tho it was probely the rudest, crudest port job ever lol. The hardest part was getting a tiny piece of sand paper in there to take the sharp edge off the port, my finger just fit.

 

[NSEric]

I knew that would upset someone.
I cleaned the aluminum dust out really good and the rags pulled it out if I missed some, none got into the motor.
I ran a tank of gas through the saw since I did this so it must be fine.

 

[Huskybill]

 

[NSEric]

Whats the big deal?
All I wanted to do was raise the exhaust port 1/16 of an inch, I did it without tearing the cylinder off, so what? I would've ground it exactly the same with it off. I was sure nothing got into the motor, I tore a rag up into small pieces and pushed them in with a screw driver until the cylinder was completely full so nothing could get in.
On a side note you cant do much to the exhaust port between the cylinder wall and the muffler, its not very thick there, you cant make it rounded or light bulb shaped like you recommended.

I only spent a couple hours porting it total, it cuts a bit faster so it worked out ok for me, im done tearing the saw apart, im just going to run it now, it cut plenty fast stock for what I do and is quite a bit faster now (the full chisel chain helped as much as the porting) so its more fun to cut with.
If I was porting an expensive good saw I'd get a degree wheel and do it right or only go wider on the ports and not touch the timing.

I should try switching the bars/chains from the 46 to the 62 tho.
The 46 has a 16 inch bar and Oregon 21lpx chain, it maybe faster than the 20 inch bar with archer chain that's on the 62, I couldn't get a 76 drive link lpx chain, its an odd length so I bought archer chain off ebay, the Chinese 20 inch bar is more like 19. Its hard to find a tree I cant cut up with a 16 inch bar around here so I don't mind running the shorter bar, most guys run short bars locally.

 

[Huskybill]

Without removing the cylinder first you got rotary file chips in the cylinder. Some can be micro size and get stuck between the piston and cylinder wall.

I like a shorter bar when bucking up 15” oak I use a 16” bar on a 2100(100cc). Time is money.

This is what I wanted my Chinese saw for to port it to extreme.

 

[Huskybill]

We need a video of it running and cutting?

 

[Leafy]

Without removing the cylinder first you got rotary file chips in the cylinder. Some can be micro size and get stuck between the piston and cylinder wall.

I like a shorter bar when bucking up 15” oak I use a 16” bar on a 2100(100cc). Time is money.

This is what I wanted my Chinese saw for to port it to extreme.

You need to find my thread on the other forum center around outdoor power equipment if you want to make a hot 5200 china saw.

 

[Deleted member 150358]

I like a shorter bar when bucking up 15” oak I use a 16” bar on a 2100(100cc). Time is money.

Dayum, my 011avt 16" can do but a 2100 16" would run my arse ragged.

 

[NSEric]

You need to find my thread on the other forum center around outdoor power equipment if you want to make a hot 5200 china saw.

I did read that whole thing. Copied your work, the 46 works great for its size, it looks just like your 52 internally, the 62 is a little different P@C with the same muffler, exhaust port and carb.
How did the home made intake hold up?

 

[Leafy]

Fine. Did you measure your diameter and stroke? The 62cc exhaust and intake should be a different bolt pattern.

 

[NSEric]

I never measured anything, it could be smaller than a 62 but its different than the 52 you ported, it has quad transfers.
I made a vid of both saws cutting, didn't have any big wood to cut tho.

 

[Huskybill]

This saw sounds like a 2stroke four cylinder Yamaha motorcycle when it idles.

 

[Leafy]

I never measured anything, it could be smaller than a 62 but its different than the 52 you ported, it has quad transfers.
I made a vid of both saws cutting, didn't have any big wood to cut tho.

Quad open or closed? The "58cc" that's actually 52.5cc is quad open transfers. An actual 62cc China saw should have closed transfers I think.

 

[Thommo]

The 58cc and 62cc should have a longer stroke than the 45cc and 52cc version. I think it is 31mm stroke for the smaller version and 34mm stroke for the larger ones. The smaller versions seem to be better. I have a 45cc version that i have not touched and it cuts faster than a 62cc version of that saw. I ported the 62cc saw and the 45cc saw is still better. I have been thinking about putting a bigger carb on the 62cc saw. I just have to make up a manifold because the original manifold will be a restriction.

 

[NSEric]

The 62 has quad open transfer ports, there's a pic of them in the second post.
I ordered a 58cc (45.2mm) P&C with quad open transfer ports to make the 46 a "58", it fits the 46, 52 and 58 so they all have the same stroke, I think the 58 is 52cc with the better transfer ports. The free 46 with a 25 dollar top end kit may end up being the better cutting saw lol.
I will pull the P&C off the 62 and see if its the same stroke when it gets here, im guessing its longer as the motors taller, I also want to trim a touch more off the pistons intake skirt. Something tells me, whoever built this cheap saw didn't change the ports enough to match the longer stroke so it needs more intake timing, I cant go lower on the exhaust port tho, I noticed its free porting a touch already and I didn't touch the bottom of the port.

When cutting wood 10-12 inches and under, the 46 is just as fast as the 62, the 62 definitely has more torque tho, it cuts bigger wood just as fast as small stuff, it doesn't care how much of the bar your using.

 

[Leafy]

Yeah I noticed on mine the exhaust port bottom was low, like the top ring didn't even get to it. Mine doesn't Freeport though. When porting I never grind on the bottom of the exhaust port unless it's above the piston at bdc otherwise any material you take off there is just hurting power (from causing turbulence) and increasing wear on the rings and piston.

 

[Thommo]

I think the quad transfer ports came out in the later models. I have two 62cc saws with only one transfer port each side that were very restricted. I had to grind a lot out of the transfer ports to get them to make any torque and ended up raising the height of the transfers before i was happy. I lowered the intake port as well as trimming the piston skirt on the intake side and under the gudgeon pin. I had to lower the exhaust port because the piston was lower than the port floor at bottom dead center and ended up with about 12 thou of free port on the exhaust. The 62cc saws i have both have flat top pistons and the smaller one has a dome top piston. I bought a quad port 62cc cylinder but havent used it because the transfer ports look tiny.

 

[Huskybill]

The way I said they posted the chutes on the top of the piston to the transfer ports I’ve seen it also done on the exhaust port. The piston with its top so thick it’s perfect for doing chutes.