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I Want To Like My Stihl MS250 Again

sean donato

sean donato

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I wouldnt put a 350 topend on your Johnny. I have a 346xp and had an 026 stihl. I gave the stihl to my dad. Both ported, both very good runners. The 346xp was the faster saw by a hood margin. Having said that I would happily grab up another 026 without a second though for the rite price.
 
Clyde85

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I have a 350 and I was quite impressed for a 50 cc homeowner saw. If I could just keep it together. One of the bolts holding the isolation block to the crank case broke the other day when the son and I were cleaning up a borer stricken ash in the backyard.
 

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jonshonda

jonshonda

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So I had a chance to play with my hand sharpened stock chain, and with the 26RS. The hand sharpened chain does seem to be much improved over the 2n1 sharpened chain.

The 26RS is my first yellow chain, and its definitely a different experience. I am sure I need more time using it, but it surely isn't as smooth as the green chain. Seems like it bites harder as well, and easily stalls the saw if good technique isn't used.
 
jonshonda

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So my new chain and curiosity ended up costing me $500. When we bought our house 3 years ago it was chocked up with oak trees. Now don't get me wrong, I love trees and a wooded lot, but they were so thick and the canopy was so dense at the top, that no light was making it through. Which means no branches until roughly 30' up, and lots of moss and mud.

To date we have had at least 10 trees taken out (not small, all 50-60' oaks, having a few taken out every winter), and a bunch thinned out and trimmed up. Actually, the reason I bought he MS250 was because it paid for itself the very first time I used it by cleaning up the mess myself, vs having the tree service do it.

Well, today I had the tree service come back again to take one more oak down, and trim a fair amount of large branches in an effort to get more light in, and to lower the canopy a bit. They left me a mess again, and I had about an hour to fire up the saw and get to work. That new 26RS chain really does cut like butter through oak. Amazing! It was also fun to see the guy in the lift handling the Stihl MS201. That little bugger can RIP!!
 
Wood Doctor

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The 026/260 are the 261's predecessor. Not quite 261 power level stock but still stronger than an 025 by a good margin, and magnesium crank case pro saw construction.
Personally I like the balancing and handling of the 026 better than the 261. I have both. I always grab the 026 first. Ported .the 026 can be a very mean little guy.

The 026 comes in 026 and 026 Pro versions. The differences between the two are small. Decomp valve on the Pro, adjustable oiler, and the oiler is clutch driven rather than crank driven. 260's did come with a 44.7mm bore on later saws rather than the 44mm of the earlier saws. The 44mm is actually a better candidate for porting.
Both will run very well stock.
I will never sell my remaining 026 PRO. I should never have sold its backup twin a month ago. These saws are truly marvelous and look what is costs to replace them with a new MS261 today. Gasp!
 
windthrown

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To make your 250 run better, put a 0.050 picco B&C on it. It is an option from the factory. I even run picco B&C on my 260 saw and it runs like a raped ape now. Way better than running .325 or 3/8 std on them. Of course running a 260 will spank a 250. I sold all my 230 and 250 saws when I got a whole series of 026 and 260 saws. No comparison. No looking back.

The muffler mod on the 250 is pretty easy to do. Similar to the 290 muffler mods. Just open them up like the original early model mufflers. Same with the 026/260 saws. They choked those up in 4 different 'upgrades'. Use drills and files. Then be sure to re-tune the carbs to fatten them up again, as they will run leaner with more air flow.
 
jonshonda

jonshonda

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Windthrown thanks for the info! I found an older 025 muffler to use on my MS250, figure $15 ain't bad to play with. Will plan on having it tuned after the mod. But for now I am very happy with how the saw performs with the 26RS chain. I really don't use it enough to invest in the Picco setup, so for now I will concentrate my efforts on proper sharpening.
 
82F100SWB

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I will never sell my remaining 026 PRO. I should never have sold its backup twin a month ago. These saws are truly marvelous and look what is costs to replace them with a new MS261 today. Gasp!


You really don't want to know which of that trio cost the most then. I really suck when it comes to those three saws... Yes, the near one is a red lever...
I haven't had a Pro in quite some time, but there really isn't enough difference to matter.
 
SteveSr

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Windthrown thanks for the info! I found an older 025 muffler to use on my MS250, figure $15 ain't bad to play with. Will plan on having it tuned after the mod. But for now I am very happy with how the saw performs with the 26RS chain. I really don't use it enough to invest in the Picco setup, so for now I will concentrate my efforts on proper sharpening.
Stihl 26RS is full chisel chain and cuts fastest in CLEAN wood. Gets dull faster in DIRTY wood... Your wood may not be as clean as you think!... or you may hit the ground more than you realize! :-( May also require a lot of material removal to sharpen (won't last as long).

stihl 26RM is semi-chisel and doesn't cut quite as fast a full chisel BUT it will stay sharp a whole lot longer in less than optimum wood or usage.
 
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82F100SWB

82F100SWB

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This is very important. If you are hitting dirty wood regularly you want to run a semi chain. The last two times I went for wood I hit something with the chain on the ported 026 within 5 minutes of taking it out of the truck. Not fun I tell you RM would have held up better in those situations.
 
jonshonda

jonshonda

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Your wood may not be as clean as you think!
Listen buddy!! My wood is the cleanest around, just ask my neighbors wife!
This is very important. If you are hitting dirty wood regularly you want to run a semi chain. The last two times I went for wood I hit something with the chain on the ported 026 within 5 minutes of taking it out of the truck. Not fun I tell you RM would have held up better in those situations.
Next chain will be the 26 RM! Thanks for the tips guys
 
windthrown

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Cost for a Picco (low profile) B&C&rim for a 250 saw is pretty cheap. Small mount bar, easy to get as well stateside. Unlike the picco bars and rims for the large mount 026/260 saws. They sell them in Europe but not here. Cutting with Picco cuts a lot less kerf, so they cut faster. .325 cuts nearly the same kerf as 3/8 std, and hence they are no better. Its about the wood that you remove, not the cutters or sharpness.

West Coast used to have small mount Stihl GB Bars and chains for those 1123 saws for dirt. They are out of business now. I bough a half dozen of them in 14 and 16 inch for a series of 180c power heads that I bought from a contractor and fixed up. They are still pretty cheap on Baileys and Ebay though. I run more aggressive Stihl non safety full chisel round filed picco chain on all my smaller Stihl saws. I also have semi-chisel loops for the cruddy wood cutting. The 180c, 020, 211 and 026/260 hybrid all run great with it.
 
82F100SWB

82F100SWB

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I like the 23RS Pro .325 narrow kerf stuff, but if you are running .063 it won't be a whole lot cheaper than going to Picco.
.050 is the norm up here so it was literally just the chain for me.


It comes in RM Pro as well
 
jonshonda

jonshonda

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So when I throw the 025 muffler I got onto my MS250, it sounds like I will need to tune the carb. Do I need to have the RPM's read to accurately tune the carb, or can it be done by ear?
 

SteveSr

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So when I throw the 025 muffler I got onto my MS250, it sounds like I will need to tune the carb. Do I need to have the RPM's read to accurately tune the carb, or can it be done by ear?
It can be done by ear if you know what you are doing. If not, a tach would come in handy. First thing that you have to do is to disengage the current "H" limiter cap by pulling it out about 1/8". With a new/clean air filter tune it a bit on the rich side. Move the limiter cap ONLY full CCW if it isn't already there. Push the limiter cap back in and now tune the saw by turning the limiter cap CW (leaner) until the tune is correct.
 
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