Ideas on double ended sawbars with helper handle how to adjust chain tension.

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Assembler

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Ideas on double ended sawbars with helper handle how to adjust chain tension.

This is my first post here and I need help before starting to do some csm of some slabs on soft wood to start with.

The double ended sawbar I have is 66” long total and is about 74” long when the aluminum helper handle is installed. This helper handle has a grooved roller on it for the chain. The helper handle will slide on the 3/8" slot cut in both ends of the double ended bar.

Do most people just use a screwdriver to put tension on the chain on a outboard helper handle to adjust chain tension say during the first cut when things heat up and the chain stretches?

Does anyone make a threaded rod and bolt to fit the helper handle to adjust chain tension during the first ripping cut.

Thank you for any ideas on this topic.
 

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Never have run a bar like this.
I have run a 62” bar (sprocket tip) and have found it challenging to get the chain tight enough.

My instinct in your situation is to mount the helper handle on the bar and then treat it like a sprocket tip.
Just tighten up at the saw end once you get the tip set.
You’ll need to re-tighten no matter what the bar tip is if the chain is new.
Imagine you’re dl count is nearing 200 for 3/8 chain.
That’s a lot if links to settle in.

Also, buck a few big rounds if you can and then re-tighten before putting the saw into the mill.
Do whatever you can to get the chain to stretch before milling.
You’ll still need to adjust..... it’s going to loosen up.
 
Granberg Alaskan Mill

Thanks for your input of having to keep tightening the chain. This double ended bar is common on 5 ft. granberg Alaskan mills in the past. This mill is from the early 1970’s.

Was wondering if anyone has made a threaded 3/8” pin / bolt that fits into the 3/8” slot in the bar ends that can take over the tensioning on the outboard side. It appears that the chain tightening adjustment on many saws is not very good for tensioning for say up to 4’ milling cut. There is three 3/8” pin holes on the helper handle. What use is the three holes if only the center hole can be used for clamping down the bar to the helper handle metal that holds the chain roller. Maybe there was a granberg double ended bar in the past that use all three holes with the helper handle.
 
Granberg Alaskan Mill

Thanks for your input of having to keep tightening the chain. This double ended bar is common on 5 ft. granberg Alaskan mills in the past. This mill is from the early 1970’s.

Was wondering if anyone has made a threaded 3/8” pin / bolt that fits into the 3/8” slot in the bar ends that can take over the tensioning on the outboard side. It appears that the chain tightening adjustment on many saws is not very good for tensioning for say up to 4’ milling cut. There is three 3/8” pin holes on the helper handle. What use is the three holes if only the center hole can be used for clamping down the bar to the helper handle metal that holds the chain roller. Maybe there was a granberg double ended bar in the past that use all three holes with the helper handle.
One idea I’m thinking of is taking the thought of clamping down the bar on the chainsaw end as seen from Bobii photo of finial end clamping of bar.

With the bar clamped at the saw then all the tightening of the chain could be then done at the helper handle or outboard / sprocket end.

See the two photos that come from Bobbi. Great idea I think.
 

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Granberg does make an adjuster for you helper handle...https://granberg.com/product/chain-tensioner-kit-g982/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
BUT you should be able to snug up the handle and then take up slack on the powerhead side of things... I run a 84" bar and from new I can take up any slack that comes with the chain stretching with the tensioner on the saw.
 

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Op
Which saw are you running?
I found front adjusters have more strength for adjusting long chains.
I experienced The Stihl side adjusters can sort of “bottom out” and just stop turning even with remaining slack in longer chain.
I’m running a big Husky now with a front adjuster which feels much more robust and able to remove slack in longer chains.
YMMV
 
Wow thank you Kimosawboy and andy at clover for your answers.
I’m starting to get addicted to the form site……..lol.

I was wondering if Granberg Alaskan Mill Co. made some kind of adjuster. Need to check this out.

I’m going to be using a McCullough SP 125 power saw on this 5 ft mill that mills up to 48”
 
My 62” bar is a “cheapy” from Forester.
It works great for my purposes but has virtually no “belly” along it’s length.... nearly straight.
A nice curved belly is ideal for long bars to help keep chains tight to rails.

View attachment 806287
Interesting that the cheaper long bars do not have any belly as the older Granberg bars have a lot of cuve or belly to them. That is what my bar has.
 
After looking at the following photos. I can see how it works and that I'm missing these parts. Wonder how easy it is to make something like this?
 

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Here are some pics from a mill I made 10 years ago - I have never used this mill.
It's not a double ended bar but uses a 44" hardnose plus an 0.063" roller nose (sos it can take 404 or 3/8") that is spring loaded using motorcycle clutch springs.
This is the first go at an outboard chain tension adjustment mechanism.
Nose3.jpg
Heres the underside
Undernose1p.jpg
Updated topside with stiffer single springs.
noseandchain3.jpg
Twi adjustment bolts.
Springretainer2.jpgSpringretainer.jpg
Complete mill with 880 installed.
880four.jpg
 
Wow thank you Bobi for the interesting photos of the use of springs to assist in tension of the chainsaw chain. Having springs does sound good for the warming or stretching process. Maybe a softer spring inside of a stronger spring may work the best. I will try to use the factory helper handle in my first attempts Just will see how it goes.
 
After looking at the following photos. I can see how it works and that I'm missing these parts. Wonder how easy it is to make something like this?

Try giving Granberg a CALL on the PHONE, I would be very surprised if they can't get you the parts you are missing. They are a Great company to deal with.

Granberg:
(800) 233-6499
(925) 380-9400
granberg.com
[email protected]

I personally find a Phone Call, to be the Fastest way to get the most Accurate Parts & Info, both sides can ask and answer questions in real time, and be done in one call quite often

I have dealt with Granberg, and they understand customer service


Doug :cheers:
 
Try giving Granberg a CALL on the PHONE, I would be very surprised if they can't get you the parts you are missing. They are a Great company to deal with.
Yea I have not called Granberg yet after buying this setup from the original owner as just trying to get idea on what works Thank you Husky Man on the phone number.
I think I'm now part of the McCullough 1970's herd now.........lol.
This McCullough and the Granberg mill was a barn find and I figured that the size of 125 cc saw would not over heat to fast making milling cuts. Still have a lot to learn that is for sure. Sure am grateful for this site in general. Thanks.
 
My instinct in your situation is to mount the helper handle on the bar and then treat it like a sprocket tip.
Just tighten up at the saw end once you get the tip set.
You’ll need to re-tighten no matter what the bar tip is if the chain is new.
Imagine you’re dl count is nearing 200 for 3/8 chain.
That’s a lot if links to settle in.
Sounds like there can be a lot of adjusting to do. I wonder if a spring tension could cut down on the adjustments during say the first 8 minutes of cutting. As least the spring may cut down on the chain from jumping the bar or sprocket so much during the warmup or stretching time period.
 
Op
Which saw are you running?
I found front adjusters have more strength for adjusting long chains.
I experienced The Stihl side adjusters can sort of “bottom out” and just stop turning even with remaining slack in longer chain.
I’m running a big Husky now with a front adjuster which feels much more robust and able to remove slack in longer chains.
YMMV
Unfortunately the single thread adjuster on the McCullough 125 is not very robust and I feel that I may need to make a new stronger adjuster or at least a new support for the thread adjuster so that it will be more robust. The sprocket cover is just a die cast mag / aluminum cover and is not very robust. The 5 ft milling bar has two holes for adjusters on both ends. It may be a good idea to try to use both holes for two adjusters
 
Sounds like there can be a lot of adjusting to do. I wonder if a spring tension could cut down on the adjustments during say the first 8 minutes of cutting. As least the spring may cut down on the chain from jumping the bar or sprocket so much during the warmup or stretching time period.

I did not find it to be too bad.
Ran a full rip (10’) and then adjusted. After that the chain stayed snug for the rest of the days work.
That first cut had a bit more chain grooving in the second half of rip.... assuming from chain loosening.
Remember to loosen chain back up when your done as things cool back down.
 
I did not find it to be too bad.
Ran a full rip (10’) and then adjusted. After that the chain stayed snug for the rest of the days work.
That first cut had a bit more chain grooving in the second half of rip.... assuming from chain loosening.
Remember to loosen chain back up when your done as things cool back down.
I'm thinking the same as far as things cooling down. I will have to get to cutting and see how things go.
 
So Assembler ..Have you tried tensioning a chain on your saw??
I have not except when I put a 42" bar and chain on the saw. I'm not to impressed however will work on a shorter bar. I still think I will make a new aluminum clamp that the bar nuts will clamp on.
 
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