Increasing the growth rate of Blue Spruce

[cmontana]

I planted four Blue Spruce trees last spring. They were 6 foot tall (including the root ball) and we planted them about eight feet apart in a raised berm that is eight feet across and two feet tall in the center. They seem to be doing well, but I'm wondering what I can do to boost their growth rate. On a recent trip to Home Depot I spotted some 'evergreen fertilizer spikes' that you push into the ground near the tree but I've never used such a thing before. Any suggestions?

 

[alanarbor]

I would venture to suggest that "boosting the growth rate" is not the best thing to do for newly planted trees. Overfertilizing to create faster growth oftem makes a tree sacrifice defenses, making it more susceptible to diseases and insects. A layer of organic mulch or better yet compost, under these trees will help them establish well. Also be sure they are receiving sufficent water. Trees in a raised berm, can dry out quite rapidly.

Good luck!

 

[treeseer]

talk to your co. extension agent, get your soil tested, and add what it needs.

Ditto on the overfert scenario; cytospora canker etc thrive on excess nitrogen.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I don't like the spikes. This type of fertilizer is mostly nitrogen, which burns roots. Let's say you put 5 spikes in around your tree, in an area around each of the spikes it will burn the roots. Then as you get away from the spike about 4 or 5 inches, there will be an area of soil that is getting a dose of nitrogen that may be correct.
So you end up with 5 little circles of burned roots, each with an area around them of about 6" with high nitrogen levels. Then the majority of the root area is unaffected. It would be much better to take 5 nice dog tirds and place them around the tree.
The other obvious problem is water moves fertilizer straight down. so most of the nitrogen just goes into the subsoil and eventually into the water table, killing any roots it encounters as it goes.

What really works nice is the bagged compost they sell at garden centers and department stores. For evergreens, the Composted Sheep Manure might be best because it is slightly acidic. It has a enough nitrogen to promote fast growth, but not enough to burn any roots, even if you put it right on exposed roots. You'll want a 40 lb bag for an area of about 10x10 feet ($2). So 2 or 3 bags per tree.
Then put a decorative mulch down over that, no more than about 2" deep.
Water during drought. Get right down under the tree and poke a finger into the original root ball to see if it needs water. If it's wet don't add more water, if it's dry, water.
Once the roots get established, the top of the tree will take off.
Add more compost and mulch each spring.

 

[underwor]

Mother Nature figured growth rate into designing most plants. Fast growers are generally weak in health and strength. Also, after living in the Dakotas, I have come to the conclusion that there is only one good use for a Colorado spruce planted in clay soil. That is to make chips for something else. After 20-30 years at a height of about 10-20 feet, they turn red and die, in many cases. If you are in well drained decomposed granite at about 8000 ft above sea level, with snow cover most of the year just above you on the mountain, you have a nice tree.
Just my opinion.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

In Wisconsin they are 20 to 30 year trees, but nice looking until cytospera (sp).

 

[UrbanFarmer]

I don't like the spikes. This type of fertilizer is mostly nitrogen, which burns roots. Let's say you put 5 spikes in around your tree, in an area around each of the spikes it will burn the roots. Then as you get away from the spike about 4 or 5 inches, there will be an area of soil that is getting a dose of nitrogen that may be correct.
So you end up with 5 little circles of burned roots, each with an area around them of about 6" with high nitrogen levels. Then the majority of the root area is unaffected. It would be much better to take 5 nice dog tirds and place them around the tree.
The other obvious problem is water moves fertilizer straight down. so most of the nitrogen just goes into the subsoil and eventually into the water table, killing any roots it encounters as it goes.

What really works nice is the bagged compost they sell at garden centers and department stores. For evergreens, the Composted Sheep Manure might be best because it is slightly acidic. It has a enough nitrogen to promote fast growth, but not enough to burn any roots, even if you put it right on exposed roots. You'll want a 40 lb bag for an area of about 10x10 feet ($2). So 2 or 3 bags per tree.
Then put a decorative mulch down over that, no more than about 2" deep.
Water during drought. Get right down under the tree and poke a finger into the original root ball to see if it needs water. If it's wet don't add more water, if it's dry, water.
Once the roots get established, the top of the tree will take off.
Add more compost and mulch each spring.

Thank you im going give this a try. I have use spikes for years but didn't ever break down the actual physical use of them makes perfect sense so I guess ill break up real fine the few I still have and mix into the clay garden soil next spring.