Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

[Wisneaky]

I'm a mod. I didn't delete you, it might have been another mod , but if you signed up and posted last night, chances are it got deleted as part of a server change that happened last night. If so, I apologize. A lot of posts from last night went missing.

I do apologize for freaking out.

 

[Wisneaky]

I posted last night if anyone has heard of duravent duraliner. I am going to by a tundra this week and I am going to have to line my chimney and I want a liner that will last. They are factory insulated and look to be good. Is the extra cost worth it? Anyone have any experience with them? One other question my inside dimension of my chimney are 11x7 but when I measure the outside dimensions on top it is 13x13 should I use a round 6" liner or go with a 6" oval liner?

 

[laynes69]

A duraliner will do just fine. If you current liner is cracked then you should have insulation added to your liner. Depending on your chimney height, you could downsize to fit a liner if necessary. If I recall a 6" flex liner is around 6-5/8" in diameter. A rigid liner will cost more, but come in at 6" in diameter. Your headed in the right direction by lining your chimney for the Tundra. Any high efficiency wood furnace requires a properly sized chimney for best operation and draft.

 

[Wisneaky]

My chimney doesn't have a liner. It was previously used for an oil furnace. I measured the size and it is 17' tall. Pretty sure I'm going to order the duraliner total cost with pipe, tee, thimble and cap will be around $850

 

[laynes69]

If it's brick only and no clay liner, then you need insulation. Are you looking at a rigid liner? Some rigid liners have a second liner that snaps around, so the airspace becomes insulation. Just make sure whatever liner you choose will fit.

 

[Wisneaky]

The duraliner is actually double walled and insulated.

 

[laynes69]

Alright, sounds good then. I wouldn't reduce the liner size, considering the chimney height. If you can't get a 6" round down, then you'll have to go oval. I don't know what the overall diameter of the liner is. Make sure there's no extra mortar sticking out from the joints, doesn't take much to stop a liner from going down.

 

[Wisneaky]

Is there any difference's in draft between the round and oval? The oval is actually cheaper, but I'd prefer round. The round liner is supposed to be 6 5/8 I have 7" inside clearance so it might be tight.

Drolet Tundra "coming soon" Husqvarna 450e

 

[flotek]

Dura vent triple wall is what I use of coarse that's different setup being an external pipe but I will say it's quality is excellent and has served me well it is not cheap but it drafts great and is very safe . It insulates so well snow lays on it unmelted . Sounds like you'll have a good setup for the tundra . a lot of people tend to foolishly think a chimney is a chimney and it's just a place for smoke to exit they don't realize it critically effects how the wood heating appliance operates . New style EPA. stoves and furnaces need strong drafts and need the flue to be 6" diameter to draft right there is less volume to heat this way and produces better results ,if it's insulated that's even better at keeping the temperature up and also prevent creosote ..see you must continually heat this flue area to sustain the draft and it acts as a vacuum . Just elbowing into a clay tile chimney is a poor way to install a stove but people always do it and don't consider the flue function . If they get poor results they often immediately blame the stove instead of the obvious issue at hand

 

[Wisneaky]

Dura vent triple wall is what I use of coarse that's different setup being an external pipe but I will say it's quality is excellent and has served me well it is not cheap but it drafts great and is very safe . It insulates so well snow lays on it unmelted . Sounds like you'll have a good setup for the tundra . a lot of people tend to foolishly think a chimney is a chimney and it's just a place for smoke to exit they don't realize it critically effects how the wood heating appliance operates . New style EPA. stoves and furnaces need strong drafts and need the flue to be 6" diameter to draft right see you must continually heat this flue area to sustain the draft and it acts as a vacuum . Just elbowing into a clay tile chimney is a poor way to install a stove but people always do it and don't consider the flue function . If they get poor results they often immediately blame the stove instead of the obvious issue at hand

I've been doing tons of research on this furnace and different liners. I'm pretty well set on these. Going to make my purchases hopefully Thursday. I'm sick of the high prices of LP.

 

[brenndatomu]

Hey, Bud I have had real good experience with Simpson Dura Vent triple wall. What I liked about it is that it was based on an airflow principle to keep it cool instead of being crammed full of insulation. I think the liner is probably a safe bet. Stainless is always better from my perspective.

Air cooled pipe is generally not recommended for wood burners because the inner pipe needs to stay hot enough to avoid creosote, insulated pipe is better in this case.

 

[flotek]

I've been doing tons of research on this furnace and different liners. I'm pretty well set on these. Going to make my purchases hopefully Thursday. I'm sick of the high prices of LP.

With the price of lp and the rationing going on you'll get your money back in no time . I use 100% wood for heat no backup I won't give those scoundrels a penny for dirty fuel oil . I've burned for 6 years and never used one drop of liquid fuel . Based on what I was using I'd guess I saved sour 18,000$ Since I stopped the nonsense and started burning wood

 

[Wisneaky]

my house is small. Main floor is 1000sf basement is the same size, but I heat it. So far this year I've spent $1800 on LP. I'm sure I'll be much lower with wood. I'm going to keep the LP hooked up for backup and insurance reasons so they don't drop me, but hoping I won't have to use it.

 

[Wisneaky]

Anyone have any pictures or video of the tundra/heatmax in action?

 

[Wisneaky]

That's why generalities are generic. The Simpson Dura Vent is wood burner flue. I installed mine new in 1996 and it is just like new. There is no problem with stack temp, velocity and least of all differential out/in. It won't melt snow, but you wouldn't want to touch the inner one especially as I burn Hedge.

my brother has a class a installed on his furnace that's in his garage. You can touch the class a pipe and its cool to the touch. But touch the black pipe prior to the thimble and you'll have severe burns if lucky to have a hand left.

 

[stihly dan]

If you get a good furnace you can touch the black pipe without losing skin.

 

[djkost]

Just got to try the BD on my trundra. Had it set up to ,06 wc but fire in the stove seem to be blazing hard. Should it be reduced to maybe .05 WC? What are other guy running their draft at. My internal temps below the BD was 300. My BD is about 18 inches above the stove.

 

[brenndatomu]

Doesn't SBI recommend .05-.08? It is easy enough to change it, try it at .05"WC (or less) see what it does.
Just FYI, Yukon recommends .03"WC (not more than .04") for their wood furnaces. Different firebox design though...

 

[djkost]

I think the book said 06wc but I'm going to turn it down to 05wc. It seems to be burning hard at 06wc.

 

[Mlaw22]

My burns around .08 to .05 . My burn times kinda suck. Book says maximum -.06 and min -.04. I think I need to get a baro and keep it consistent. Plus it gets windy here. Just sick of buyin crap for this thing. Well, at least the boss is! Double wall is a kicker.