Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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Interesting Wisneaky I've been using a paper clip I've been thinking about drilling a hole and taping it for a bolt .. say midway just under the 3/4 hole they have in the damper door ..... Once I know what my chimney draft is I'll be able to tweak the damper door open to accommodate .......in the bottom picture it looks like the insert is holding it open a 1/4 inch or so ?
 
Interesting Wisneaky I've been using a paper clip I've been thinking about drilling a hole and taping it for a bolt .. say midway just under the 3/4 hole they have in the damper door ..... Once I know what my chimney draft is I'll be able to tweak the damper door open to accommodate .......in the bottom picture it looks like the insert is holding it open a 1/4 inch or so ?
yes its about that. I don't know if its the insert holding it or the notch they have cut into the new damper. My old damper looks much different.
 
yes its about that. I don't know if its the insert holding it or the notch they have cut into the new damper. My old damper looks much different.
are you talking about the notch on the right where the rod connects ? I believe mine has the notch I did not get the little silver spacer ..... but I'm doing pretty much the same thing with the paper clip....I just slide it up or down on the left hand side I'm actually using a 4 penny galv finish nail bent around back on itself squeezed up enough so it has a little friction with the door edge...I'm getting better results with the coaling.....I'm tweaked open about 3/16.......... My line of thinking is this if your chimney is pulling .06 .... .06 has to be allowed in... and if it doesn't get in the draft pull would have to be affected... I'm thinking out load here and could be totally wrong..... by the way I purchased this furnace in july so maybe some mods had all ready been added......
 
IWP_20150219_006.jpg
are you talking about the notch on the right where the rod connects ? I believe mine has the notch I did not get the little silver spacer ..... but I'm doing pretty much the same thing with the paper clip....I just slide it up or down on the left hand side I'm actually using a 4 penny galv finish nail bent around back on itself squeezed up enough so it has a little friction with the door edge...I'm getting better results with the coaling.....I'm tweaked open about 3/16.......... My line of thinking is this if your chimney is pulling .06 .... .06 has to be allowed in... and if it doesn't get in the draft pull would have to be affected... I'm thinking out load here and could be totally wrong..... buy the way I purchased this furnace in july so maybe the some mods had all ready been added......
That notch that cut out in this picture.
 
Its seems to me they are fixing some of the problems and not letting us know......Also the fan snap up on the top of the stove works far better for me also
That's one thing they should do is let us know. Once we register it they should contact us with any updates and send us the parts. They have some communication issues. I got snotty with them when the baffle broke last because I was emailing them and three different people were answering the emails and each time there was a reply they wanted the serial number and copy of my receipt again. I told them they need to keep better track of the registered serial numbers and emails and that I wasn't going to supply them my receipt again because I did it twice in the previous emails. It's a pain in the butt to have to go to Menards website and find the right order, print off the receipt and scan it back in.
 
That's one thing they should do is let us know. Once we register it they should contact us with any updates and send us the parts. They have some communication issues. I got snotty with them when the baffle broke last because I was emailing them and three different people were answering the emails and each time there was a reply they wanted the serial number and copy of my receipt again. I told them they need to keep better track of the registered serial numbers and emails and that I wasn't going to supply them my receipt again because I did it twice in the previous emails. It's a pain in the butt to have to go to Menards website and find the right order, print off the receipt and scan it back in.
yeah that's my thinking also..... My hope is to get the bugs worked out before this winter is over I'll know more when I get my draft meter and see where the chimney is at.....Good info Wisneaky.. I'd say keep an eye on the clip that its not giving to much draft...... jmho they should have had a way to adjust the damper from the get go....thanks man
 
yeah that's my thinking also..... My hope is to get the bugs worked out before this winter is over I'll know more when I get my draft meter and see where the chimney is at.....Good info Wisneaky.. I'd say keep an eye on the clip that its not giving to much draft...... jmho they should have had a way to adjust the damper from the get go....thanks man
Your welcome. I checked my draft after installing it and backed the baro down some to compensate.
 
So what's the pushrod adjustment that was talked about in an earlier post? I have a Heatmax & it's been working great but latey my damper door seems to get hung up sometimes & not fully close. Anybody else have this happening to them?
 
So what's the pushrod adjustment that was talked about in an earlier post? I have a Heatmax & it's been working great but latey my damper door seems to get hung up sometimes & not fully close. Anybody else have this happening to them?
Yes mine hangs up occasionally but I have also adjusted the rod a little because it was making a lot of noise while the damper opened. I can't seem to find a happy medium.

Eric
 
Its seems to me they are fixing some of the problems and not letting us know
The automotive companys do the same thing, if there is an update for a problem, they will not let you know unless it is an actual recall, unfortunately that's just SOP with most companys now. Most of the time you have to actually call the company and/or take the vehicle (or whatever) to the dealer and complain to get the update
 
Yes mine hangs up occasionally but I have also adjusted the rod a little because it was making a lot of noise while the damper opened. I can't seem to find a happy medium.

Eric

What did you do to adjust it? I thought about putting the rod in a different hole, but there's really only 1 that it can go in.
 
In front under the cover box Where the hook arm attaches around the flap I took a Dremel and smoothed that V cut and radius around the edges . So edges are smooth and polished so it pulls smooth ly and doesn't get hung up then I added a pea size amount of hi temp grease on the V cut out on the arm . Now mine never gets hung up or stuck . Always silky and pulls up flap reliably with no struggle or hang ups
 
In front under the cover box Where the hook arm attaches around the flap I took a Dremel and smoothed that V cut and radius around the edges . So edges are smooth and polished so it pulls smooth ly and doesn't get hung up then I added a pea size amount of hi temp grease on the V cut out on the arm . Now mine never gets hung up or stuck . Always silky and pulls up flap reliably with no struggle or hang ups


I'm going to try this. Thanks for your replies!
 
The big test is looking like next year . Running a 26 26 shelter .The only problem is pipe plugin . 2 things I don't.do clean a chimney every month our drain a air compressor daily . Will prove what needs done.
 
If you have a 60$ sooteater kit you never have to go up on a dangerous roof . You can clean from the ground up
 
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