Introduction and my mill saw setup

[Down Home Dave]

Hi, I'm new here, it took me a minute to sign up after seeing all the great posts!

I'm in SWPA, have been playing with chainsaws many years and have milled with chainsaws for about 6-7. I am to the point where I have lots of air dried slabs accumulated, some resawn now into dimensional and some used for various pieces around my house. I have only milled with a second hand Stihl MS660, that led a tough a life and got even tougher after I used it to mill several thousand bf of maple, ash, walnut, cherry and oak. Its been rebuilt by me three times now, most recently suffered a death by clutch side crankshaft seal. saw revv'ed up, ran too hot and poof, blew rings and severly scored the jug and piston. I put a meteor kit in it, 54mm, caber rings, new seals, and a few worn small parts. All back in business, slowly breaking it back in. Running 93 octane, 2 gallon can with 6.4 oz synthetic oil. (40:1). I use a PantherPro (no longer avail new) 42" sawmill rack, 36" and 42" Oregon Powermatch bars with the oiler hole opened up, Carlton rip chains. I file my own chains sharp, dress my bars religiously. Dual port muffler, hand polish my jug ports, tach tuned high speed below 12,500 at 1250' sea level. I often use an aux oiler made from a plastic bottle, shutoff valve and a copper tube that drips bar oil on the return side of the tip just where it goes straight. I cut almost everything 9/4 or thicker. less cuts per log and i find they stay flat better. longer dry though.

Pretty standard approach I think, fun to hear others setups and tuning. Nice to be here. some photos:

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looks good. How close to Washington PA are you?

 

[Down Home Dave]

Hey Buzz...I am East of Pittsburgh, closer to Indiana, PA

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looks like just over an hour from Pitts? I'm in Wheeling, WV

 

[Down Home Dave]

Looks like just over an hour from Pitts? I'm in Wheeling, WV

yep about an hour-ish. I can be at the Cabelas outside of Wheeling in about 1:45.

 

[Alexx Mathew]

This tool is perfect for cutting smaller branches and a lot safer to use than a regular chainsaw. Actually, it's quicker as you can grab a branch on one side to scoop the branch into the jaws and with a quick squeeze, the limb is cut. I only gave the battery a lower rating as I bought it tool only and I would suggest if buying tool only you buy the fast charger and the highest AH battery you are willing to pay for. A 1.5ah battery is good for about 20 minutes so if you buy a larger battery capacity(2ah or more) it would be better, but that goes for any battery operated tool.
We have two properties in Georgia (18 acres) and Alabama (111 acres). Both are mostly left wooded so small trees, muscadine, wisteria, etc. are common and the vines can get really thick. I have a ratchet lopper that I love but it can’t get over 2” and if I am doing a lot it just gets tiring to use. I like to help maintain things around the properties. I wanted something like a small chainsaw but I don’t like the exposed blade. This can do up to 4” and is battery powered. I haven’t timed how long the battery lasts because it’s not constantly used but it seems to last a long time. I would estimate at least 3 hours. It cuts perfectly. I have cut muscadine, wisteria, and sweetgum from 2” to 4” with no issues. The best part are the blade protectors. I was cutting down and didn’t anticipate it coming down so quickly when I cut something and it hit the top of my foot.

 

[MFV]

Hi, I'm new here, it took me a minute to sign up after seeing all the great posts!

I'm in SWPA, have been playing with chainsaws many years and have milled with chainsaws for about 6-7. I am to the point where I have lots of air dried slabs accumulated, some resawn now into dimensional and some used for various pieces around my house. I have only milled with a second hand Stihl MS660, that led a tough a life and got even tougher after I used it to mill several thousand bf of maple, ash, walnut, cherry and oak. Its been rebuilt by me three times now, most recently suffered a death by clutch side crankshaft seal. saw revv'ed up, ran too hot and poof, blew rings and severly scored the jug and piston. I put a meteor kit in it, 54mm, caber rings, new seals, and a few worn small parts. All back in business, slowly breaking it back in. Running 93 octane, 2 gallon can with 6.4 oz synthetic oil. (40:1). I use a PantherPro (no longer avail new) 42" sawmill rack, 36" and 42" Oregon Powermatch bars with the oiler hole opened up, Carlton rip chains. I file my own chains sharp, dress my bars religiously. Dual port muffler, hand polish my jug ports, tach tuned high speed below 12,500 at 1250' sea level. I often use an aux oiler made from a plastic bottle, shutoff valve and a copper tube that drips bar oil on the return side of the tip just where it goes straight. I cut almost everything 9/4 or thicker. less cuts per log and i find they stay flat better. longer dry though.

Pretty standard approach I think, fun to hear others setups and tuning. Nice to be here. some photos:

That’s cool I’m in the same boat been cutting wood a long time and just recently got into milling here in Texas. I bought an ms880 I have a 64” cannon super bar and a 36” stihl rollamatic with basically same mill as you now I just have to figure out how to keep my saw running this is a little rougher on your saw than cutting fire wood

 

[Down Home Dave]

That’s cool I’m in the same boat been cutting wood a long time and just recently got into milling here in Texas. I bought an ms880 I have a 64” cannon super bar and a 36” stihl rollamatic with basically same mill as you now I just have to figure out how to keep my saw running this is a little rougher on your saw than cutting fire wood

nice setup! yeah, care and maintenance much more than firelogs.