trying to take off the muffler and bolt loosens but can’t get it through the hole, not even close. Seem like something is tweaked. Saw is a 075 and just trying to replace the gasket and check it out. Now seems like it’s going to stay on. Thanks! 
Is something bent here?
- Thread starter motolife313
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Is that going to eat away the magnesium so I can get the bolt through?
U&A
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Since when did simple penetrating oil eat magnesium?
I would think not. But I’m no chainsaw mechanic.
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Put the allen wrench in the bolt and give it a good wack on top with a hammer. That usually works, most of the time.
The case on top is bent I think. I can loosen the bolt but not take it all the way out becuase of interference
The camera is aiming straight down over the hole. You can see it’s not lined up
The camera is aiming straight down over the hole. You can see it’s not lined up
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Food for thought, If you end up stripping the Allen hex use a round flat nosed punch and go around the hex straight on to close up the hex then tap the hex wrench into the hex to restore it. I learned this on the dirtbike cases.
Fixed the original post. The bolt is loose it just won’t come out of there becuase it’s not lined up
I’m trying to figure out whats bent here.
You need to take the tail off the saw......and also the fuel tank off to get the rear housing off....
Just bite the bullet. Lol
IMO, those holes are for final tightening during assembly, to allow the muffler to be positioned where the lower tabs line up with the holes in the muffler cover and handle housing.
It's pretty near impossible to change the exhaust flange gasket on the "1111 series" saws without taking the tail handle off first.
Debris will drop inside the exhaust port, not to mention you'll want to shake any rust flakes out of the muffler while you're in there.
It's actually pretty easy though.
Going back together, you've got to get those screws super tight, or put loctite on them. Don't worry, the exhaust heat will keep the loctite on the threads from being impossible to remove down the road someday.
By the way.....
This is what "bent" is like.
Just bite the bullet. Lol
IMO, those holes are for final tightening during assembly, to allow the muffler to be positioned where the lower tabs line up with the holes in the muffler cover and handle housing.
It's pretty near impossible to change the exhaust flange gasket on the "1111 series" saws without taking the tail handle off first.
Debris will drop inside the exhaust port, not to mention you'll want to shake any rust flakes out of the muffler while you're in there.
It's actually pretty easy though.
Going back together, you've got to get those screws super tight, or put loctite on them. Don't worry, the exhaust heat will keep the loctite on the threads from being impossible to remove down the road someday.
By the way.....
This is what "bent" is like.
Didn’t need to take the fuel tank off just the back bolts. Thanks for that. I’ll learn the saw this way much better. Piston and cylinder look perfect. Can’t even find a scratch in the cylinder and 1 small one on the piston. Any idea the thread size and pitch on this back case so I can try and chase them or go 1 size bigger? Also if like to replace the fuel filter. Don’t wanna brake nothing, do i jut pry up with a flat head screw driver to get the filter out? Thanks.
The head bolts were a touch loose on 3 of them so this let me tighten that also. Also do I need to re seal this brass plug or not? Just rebuild the carb.
It’s was missing all the exhaust bracket bolts. Only the 2 at the flange holding it on. So wasn’t much working taking it off lol
The head bolts were a touch loose on 3 of them so this let me tighten that also. Also do I need to re seal this brass plug or not? Just rebuild the carb.
It’s was missing all the exhaust bracket bolts. Only the 2 at the flange holding it on. So wasn’t much working taking it off lol
Just pry up to get filter out? Not sure if I need the sealer for the plug? Bolt hole to the left of filter is stripped. Lots of meat for next size up thread
They vibrate the bolts loose ,and then they strip and/or wallow out
in these saws .Alot of us plug the passage between the brass bolt,and
carb body ,and tune them in the cut to avoid tuning them lean
in these saws .Alot of us plug the passage between the brass bolt,and
carb body ,and tune them in the cut to avoid tuning them lean
Ya that makes sense. Really gota check on these bolts. Half the bolts are missing or broke off holding the tank on. Looks like I’ll need some long drill to drill it out. If I like the saw maybe I’ll tare it down after running it for a bit. I could do welding on it while it’s apart and fill in the threads if needed and re tap, needs welding in other spots also. Magnesium filler is very spendy around 100$ a pound I think lol. Does this look like a stihl cylinder? Maybe aftermarket? Piston and cylinder look tits!
Looks good!
That’s why I was thinking. Does the fuel line come straight up that goes in the tank? I wanna replace that before I fire it up. Might have to get the filter and line online. Same as 070,076 and 090 I think. I’ll just have to check the dealers. There all different when it comes to finding parts for this saw on the 4 I’ve called
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