Jonsered 2159 problems

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Nitris223

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Been looking around the site a bit trying to find the right answer to my saw problems. Nice site by the way. From what I have been reading it seems like I have the carb boot problems along with maybe the carb being crap also.

Bought the saw used 2 yrs ago for a smoking deal. Took it home to clean it up before I offered the pawn shop a price on it. Once I had all the sawdust cleaned off , it looked like the saw had cut less then a pick up load of wood. Fresh gas and it fired right up and purred like a kitten. When I went back to the store I asked what they wanted for the saw and the case, he said $100, I didn't even argue , just laid out $100 bill. Used the saw a few times a year cutting a couple of loads of wood and that's it. Always stored it in a heated shop with the gas drained in the fall.
Now this year I take it out for the first time and it was running great, got my load of wood and headed home. Once home it started acting up , it would bog out in the cut, I would have to feather the piss out of it to get it revved up. Once revved up and the stars aligned I could make the cut but start all over again for the next cut.
Left the saw alone for a few hours and went out to try it again, ran good for about 10 minutes and started acting up. It will sit there and idle all day but just won't rev easy. When it was cold it was perfect.

Does this sound like the carb issue or a vent issue. I do have the plastic clamp intake boot. so I assume it is a walbro carb. I had the carb off (never looked for a name) and cleaned it out , did some adjustments and it started but acted up again. I also read about the Zama carb and found a link to Baily's site. Found the carb but it says it is now discontinued.

So if I need a new carb what one do I need and also what other parts do I need. It looks like I have to pull the cylinder to get the carb boot off so a base gasket for sure. I work on 2 stroke sleds all winter so taking this saw apart should be pretty easy just need to know what I have to get and where to get it in Canada or the USA. Canada would be best unless I find better deals in the states. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Definitely replace the plastic clamp with the metal one! I just got a 359 (that's just an orange 2159) and it scored the piston due to the intake clamp being too loose.
I also have a 357xp with the "trouble" walbro carb, and I've never had an issue with it. Sounds like yours needs a rebuilt kit.
I've found much better deals on parts at northwood saw (website).
 
Replaced everything from the cylinder to the carb. New fuel and vent lines and now the saw runs worse then before. Idles fine but bogs out like crazy. Once I can get it revved up and hold the throttle just right it will make the cut but back of a bit or stop and start a cut and it will bog. When it is bogging it will not even pick up any revs while holding the throttle steady so it seems like it is over fueling. I tried turning the H/L screws but they would not turn and were also a pain in the but to find while the saw was running. I have a carb kit also but I don't think it needs a carb kit. It ran better before I changed the carb boot. Might take it all apart again and check it over once more. There is also another screw just below the H/L screw holes , looks like a T marking there . Got hard to see as the light was fading pretty quick.
 
There is a thread from Treemonkey on how to repair those carbs. I have used it on several carbs and it always cures the problem

search walbro HDA199 REPAIR
 
Ok thanks. Going to look that up right now. I guess what I did was not a total waste because I now know everything is new and I have the updated boot with the steel clamp.

I keep forgetting to look at the carb and find the model number. At the dealer it shows the carb is # 175 and not #199. Is one newer the other. My saw is a CS2159 with no letters behind it. I see some listed as a CS2159C. Where can I find on the saw what shows the year it was made.
 
I just rebuilt a 199 on a 359. Gotta use a K24 kit. K20 (I think?) also fits the 199 carb, but has incorrect diaphragms for the HDA.
Not sure on the 175# on your carb.
Year made is on the serial# tag, right side of the saw, under the handlebar.
 
This is the only numbers I can find under the bar. YHXVS 0595RA. Is that the serial #. It was on a sticker with the model number with the engine size. Nothing stated serial # though.


The carb kit part # is 537-04-80-01. I wouldn't be surprised if the guy gave me the wrong kit .
 
Maybe I described that poorly...
Here's a photo with a crudely drawn arrow because I don't have a pic of the actual tag :D

[photo="medium"]2136[/photo]
 
serial # 966 24 05 00 or 01 4800063. The carb is a HDA 175 so it's not a 199 that I have been reading about but does it have the same issues as the 199. If I read the 199fix right it has to do with getting the right carb kit. On the bag that my carb kit is in has supplier part # B2605-HDA. I can't find anything that had HDA 24 or HDA20 to know if I have the right kit. Where I got my parts is a Husky dealer and they don't sell any Jonsered saws but can order parts. Some of those guys behind the counter or even the mechanics in the back don't know as much as some of these web forums and they get all pissy if you ask for something different then what the smart box (computer ) tells them.
 
Does this look like the right carb kit. I watched Scotts video but I got lost when he started talking about drilling a hole in the diagram and gasket, K22 HDA kit, drill a hole in the cover and stihl got in there also . I have a diaphragm and one gasket that match all holes and one gasket that is missing a hole. Do I drill a hole in that gasket or is that the last gasket on top of the plastic spacer. Or do I install the kit the way it is.

I hope it's the right kit I would like to test it tomorrow before the guy cuts all his wood up. I paid $14 CDN for this carb kit but I see I can get a repair kit with more parts plus shipping for less then $14 out of the states. I will be ordering one of them to have a spare on hand just in case.

What are these limiter caps I have been reading about and guys take them off the carb. Is that the little metal sleeve over the H/L screws.

I also said I replaced everything from the cylinder to the carb but that was not right . I forgot I didn't replace the plastic part that has the 2 holes in it for the H/L screws forget what it is called. It was backordered and I didn't see anything wrong with this one so I used it. That wouldn't have any issues with the carb operation would it. The blue spacer ring or what ever it is looked new and from what I can tell and
20141109_005604_zpsccfee4b3.jpg
the other part was good.
 
Use the diaphragms that match every hole.
I'm not totally sure on the walbro 175 though, I've only seen the 199's on these saws.

Limiter cabs restrict the amount of adjustment in the L and H screws. Again, I don't know on the 175, but on the 199, it's two plastic tabs and you can just grind them off and have 100% adjustment.

The part you really needed to replace was the plastic piece that clamps around the cylinder, with one that has a metal clamp. That's the problem piece on these saws.
 
If ya can't get the Walbro to work, you can get a Zama replacement off ebay for $40 +/-. (Zama replacement for 359) Not everyone likes em, but I've used two and they worked fine.

You did replace the fuel line & fuel filter, right & metal clamp?
 
Tore the saw down again today. Pulled the cylinder also to check things out and make sure it wasn't a blown base gasket. Put on a new base gasket that was actually .10 thou thinner then the one I took out which I assume was stock. Checked the carb boot and made sure it was sitting on the cylinder . Pulled the carb apart and replace the gaskets and diaphragm which the old ones looked fine. It had the correct kit in it with the Tan diaphragm, pulled the H/L needles nothing wrong there. Reset them to H 1 1/4 and L 1 1/2 . Checked the new pulse line and it was clear, Pulled the fuel line and filter they were both clear. Put the saw back together and it now screams like a banshee. It is a completely different saw. The old fuel lines and pulse lines are still like new and the carb gaskets look just as new . Not sure what I did but what ever it was, it worked. Now just to find a replacement bar for it and git rid of the 15" bar that is on there. I am sure this saw can handle a 18" bar easily and more common around here. With the 15" I am forced to buy from the Husky dealer.

Are the bars interchangeable between Husky and Red. Will say a bar for a 359 work on the 2159. I know my bar adjustment is in the side of the bar between the two locking nuts. Husky if I remember right was always in the front below the muffler next to the bar.
 
Some years ago a neighbor/friend gave me a slightly used, almost brand new Jonsered 2159. It had all the problems mentioned here, with bogging down, stalling and more. It was usually a couple minutes of warming up before I could start working it without stalling. When it warmed up it ran good it was great, but even then it would stall while idling and occasionally in mid-cut. It was finicky enough that I finally set it on the floor in the shop a few years ago and forgot about it (almost). A week ago, due to spruce-bud-worm damage and wind, that neighbor had a very large (almost 2' on the stump) spruce break off and go over in a storm, fortunately missing the house. The only saw I had that could handle that was the frustrating Jred. I got it out, opened both sides and using brake cleaner and air, I clean it good. I dumped out the old fuel, put in fresh and started it, but still it was problematic. I replace the plug but saw that even the new plug had weak spark. Then I noticed that the coil appeared to be too close and slightly skewed to the fly wheel mags. Although the spacing isn't adjustable, I loosened the screws and levered and held it a bit with a screw driver while I turned the screws back in. That actually did give it a bit more clearance and eliminated the skew. I cleaned that area again and put it back together. After I used 4 refills in my Stihl limber to get rid of the branches, I then used the Jred to turn the neighbors spruce monster into firewood. It preformed like a cross breed between a rabid bear and a hungry beaver and never missed a beat until I had to refuel. It ran exactly the way you would expect a new saw to run. The restarts were two pulls on choke to fire up and one more for running with no bogging down at all on start up. I realize that coil clearance should not have made a difference but the change was so complete and timely that I can't think of the recovery being anything else.
 
Blocked (or even partially blocked) spark arrestor screens can cause the exact problems described.

For what it is worth, my own CS 2159 came with a factory 20"bar and has always worn a 20"bar since (Oregon nowadays) with 3/8" Full Comp full chisel chain.
Never has this powerhead struggled with that bar chain combo.
 

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