Jonsered Chainsaws

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Thanks for that Kensie, when you say pulpwood, do you mean wood like pine? She'd smash through that stuff easily, goes great in the hardwoods here in Oz (that's all we burn here so haven't cut any pine with it).
Pulpwood is around 8" DBH and smaller, though it can handle the bigger wood in a firewood setting it doesn't have the horsepower for falling and bucking big wood in a production setting.

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Pulpwood is around 8" DBH and smaller, though it can handle the bigger wood in a firewood setting it doesn't have the horsepower for falling and bucking big wood in a production setting.

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Yep, firewood saw supreme limited to about a 20" or less bar for max torque. I had intended to use my 621 for my fencing business.....as my 80 has always been pressed into duty and it's too big for that (and unhappy doing that).

I just haven't gotten around to making the 621 run....don't even remember what was supposed to be wrong with it....most likely spark issue. Still would like a nice 70E dropped into my lap, cheap......other than that, I'm pretty much done with saw collecting. Having to pay WA sales tax on everything eBay has not exactly encouraged me to buy on the Net like back in the day.:cheers:

Kevin
 
Yep, firewood saw supreme limited to about a 20" or less bar for max torque. I had intended to use my 621 for my fencing business.....as my 80 has always been pressed into duty and it's too big for that (and unhappy doing that).

I just haven't gotten around to making the 621 run....don't even remember what was supposed to be wrong with it....most likely spark issue. Still would like a nice 70E dropped into my lap, cheap......other than that, I'm pretty much done with saw collecting. Having to pay WA sales tax on everything eBay has not exactly encouraged me to buy on the Net like back in the day.:cheers:

Kevin
I've seen quite a few 70E's come up recently for decent prices, but with my history with them, which you know, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole lol

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I've seen quite a few 70E's come up recently for decent prices, but with my history with them, which you know, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole lol

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Yes, I know....lol! I lived through you vicariously when you had yours. I'm not really looking....just hoping that one would pop up from somewhere near by. Of course that would be immediately shelved if a 2094 popped up.....

Kevin
 
Yes, I know....lol! I lived through you vicariously when you had yours. I'm not really looking....just hoping that one would pop up from somewhere near by. Of course that would be immediately shelved if a 2094 popped up.....

Kevin
Lol I heard that, I need to check the port timing on mine now that I am equipped with the tools and knowledge to do so, so I can really see definitively what the mechanical differences of the 2094 and 2095 is that made the 2094 a hotter saw. My guess is the blow down number is a little different, but I will he finding out here soon.

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Yeah, he's fed up in dealing with tire kickers....It costs a lot to have his folks go look for stuff and the potential buyer not come through and purchase the items.

The original 111S decomp assembly is almost impossible to find.....so owners do what they can. I would have no problem plugging it if I had to....I logged with the Husky 2100 and no decomp for yrs.

Kevin
 
Here is a Jonsered 2095 I ported if anyone ever wanted to know what they run like ported. I will soon be getting a 2094 cylinder that I will put on a NOS bottom end to see if the timing is different and if so by how much. That way I will know exactly why people say the 2094 was hotter than the 2095, they used two different carburetors too, though the specs of the carbs are the same.

 
The only difference in carbs may be that one is cable operated and the other is linkage. Pretty sure they're front and rear handle specific as far as the carb choice goes. So if you want to put a 94 carb on a 95 saw you need the front and rear handle to match the carb but I could be wrong
 
The only difference in carbs may be that one is cable operated and the other is linkage. Pretty sure they're front and rear handle specific as far as the carb choice goes. So if you want to put a 94 carb on a 95 saw you need the front and rear handle to match the carb but I could be wrong
No your right, they have two different handle setups, chokes, & throttle linkages, the 2094 uses a handle setup like the 930, it's a much better design in my opinion, I own multiple 2095s and a 2094
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I've seen a few cylinders from both as well as the early 94 cylinder which is supposed to be different and it seems like the intake is ported a bit different and the exhaust is shaped differently as well.
I have a couple 2094's and a 2095 and the 95 is a screamer but it's hard to say unless they were timed.
Both saws will pull a 42" bar no problem
 

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I may have some parts going up for sale if you need anything. Probably going to look at a different avenue as far as work saws and I'd hate to see these get broken anymore than they have plus it takes way too long to get parts not to mention price.
These still rip for the class and oil like mad but they're not something I'm thrilled about when they break.
I'm keeping one tho haha but I have 3 complete, 1 apart and almost another one in parts
 
Question?? I few months ago I picked up a really nice jred 910e it runs great and has good compression i was thinking should I grab new parts now so I’m ready to rebuild it when the time comes? At 86 cc she’s a beast.
 
Question?? I few months ago I picked up a really nice jred 910e it runs great and has good compression i was thinking should I grab new parts now so I’m ready to rebuild it when the time comes? At 86 cc she’s a beast.

Short answer from me would be ...yes....this saw has been obsolete for the last 20 years or so and every year parts get harder to find. So if you want to be able to keep it running long term better start acquiring any NOS parts you can find and perhaps a couple parts saws as well.
 
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