ArboristSite.com Sponsors


Jonsered Chainsaws

bulletpruf

bulletpruf

ADVANCED CAD!
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Messages
1,865
Location
San Antonio, Texas
Another 110 showed up; posted details on Magnus's site. Looks like there are a few differences -- the 110 has the S case and the 111/111S has the S1 case. I think Kevin was the one who initially suggested that. The oiler is also configured differently, and the bottom of the saw is different. Having said that, I'm not sure if any of these were running changes besides the S and S1 cases.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1836.JPG
    DSCN1836.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 19
  • DSCN1857.JPG
    DSCN1857.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0060_zpscannxobn.jpg
    IMG_0060_zpscannxobn.jpg
    157 KB · Views: 18
Real1shepherd

Real1shepherd

Red for the win
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
2,628
Location
Eastern WA
I did....thanks for verifying that, Scott!

I read the thread over at Magnus' site and see the pics of the needle bearing crank 110 versus the roller bearing crank 111/111S



Kevin
 
Real1shepherd

Real1shepherd

Red for the win
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
2,628
Location
Eastern WA
Well, well.....been looking for this little gem for at least five yrs. I'm hoping it was the same size for the 80 bottom louver muffler as well. I asked the seller to measure it for me.

Fingers & toes crossed!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Jonser...531225?hash=item2ae73363d9:g:dBAAAOSwRLxepGyb

Kevin
Just to answer my own question....I had the seller measure the holes center to center and the length and width of the louver. Everything matched on my old 80, so I bought two.

I had this elaborate plan here;I was going to carve out a hardwood jig, pound thin stainless steel plate into it and form the louver. This saves me all that BS. Weird to find them over on the eBay 621 pages. Must mean that the bottom louver muffler fit many Jonsereds models.

Kevin
 
banshee1

banshee1

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Maine
Hey guys, been working on a family members Jonsered 2150 Turbo and having a problem. I replaced the fuel line with standard fuel line and after a few seconds of running, the saw basically runs out of gas. I can restart the saw using the choke in a couple pulls. Originally I had the fuel line running up over the carb mount and I noticed air bubbles in the line so I rerouted the line under the mount and I'm still having the same problem.
I think I still have the original line (didnt see anything wrong with it but figured since it was original thought replacement would be in order) if I need it, but just wondering if that's the real problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
leecopland

leecopland

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 30, 2011
Messages
1,253
Location
huntsville ontario
Hey guys, been working on a family members Jonsered 2150 Turbo and having a problem. I replaced the fuel line with standard fuel line and after a few seconds of running, the saw basically runs out of gas. I can restart the saw using the choke in a couple pulls. Originally I had the fuel line running up over the carb mount and I noticed air bubbles in the line so I rerouted the line under the mount and I'm still having the same problem.
I think I still have the original line (didnt see anything wrong with it but figured since it was original thought replacement would be in order) if I need it, but just wondering if that's the real problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Maybe the new route pinches the line.
 
Real1shepherd

Real1shepherd

Red for the win
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
2,628
Location
Eastern WA
Make sure it's really tight on the carb barb or it could let in air. Some PO numbnuts ground the barb down on my old 80, so I had to put a tiny clamp there. Look for gas leaking from that pickup line somewhere.

Hard to say otherwise without being there. Post some pics for us. Carb rebuilt correctly?

Kevin
 
Cantdog

Cantdog

Tree Freak
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
15,432
Location
Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Hey guys, been working on a family members Jonsered 2150 Turbo and having a problem. I replaced the fuel line with standard fuel line and after a few seconds of running, the saw basically runs out of gas. I can restart the saw using the choke in a couple pulls. Originally I had the fuel line running up over the carb mount and I noticed air bubbles in the line so I rerouted the line under the mount and I'm still having the same problem.
I think I still have the original line (didnt see anything wrong with it but figured since it was original thought replacement would be in order) if I need it, but just wondering if that's the real problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Did you allow enough slack in your in-tank line so the filter lays on the bottom of the tank when the saw is at any position? If you are getting air bubbles in the fuel line, it's coming from somewhere.
 
banshee1

banshee1

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Maine
Make sure it's really tight on the carb barb or it could let in air. Some PO numbnuts ground the barb down on my old 80, so I had to put a tiny clamp there. Look for gas leaking from that pickup line somewhere.

Hard to say otherwise without being there. Post some pics for us. Carb rebuilt correctly?

Kevin
I rebuilt the carb, then tuned it with factory line and it ran great and didn't have any problems. Then decided to replace filter and fuel line. Ran like crap and couldn't get rpms up. Replaced filter with original and rum great until it starts running out of fuel. No noticeable gas leaks.
 
banshee1

banshee1

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Maine
I did a Husqvarna 350 (same saw) one time that had a sharp edge in the fuel tank hole. When I put the new line in it put a few tiny holes in it and acted similar to yours. Might be worth a look.
New fuel line was a bear to get the the wholes so thats a possibility I didn't think of.
I'll check it out.
 
Real1shepherd

Real1shepherd

Red for the win
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
2,628
Location
Eastern WA
I rebuilt the carb, then tuned it with factory line and it ran great and didn't have any problems. Then decided to replace filter and fuel line. Ran like crap and couldn't get rpms up. Replaced filter with original and rum great until it starts running out of fuel. No noticeable gas leaks.
Just test the fuel line in place and if it doesn't hold vac or pressure, it's leaking back down into the tank maybe at the case hole. Anyway, you have to rule out the line itself....especially since it was a bear to get in.

Kevin
 
leecopland

leecopland

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 30, 2011
Messages
1,253
Location
huntsville ontario
49SP broken recoil spring, ordered new one from ebay, (rotary) put it in, boy wish other saws were as easy. Anyway it only allows about two revolution or about 12 inches of pull. Can this be correct?
 
Cantdog

Cantdog

Tree Freak
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
15,432
Location
Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
49SP broken recoil spring, ordered new one from ebay, (rotary) put it in, boy wish other saws were as easy. Anyway it only allows about two revolution or about 12 inches of pull. Can this be correct?
No....with the recoil removed look at the pulley and you'll see an indent about the same size as the cord in the edge. Pull the cord into that and wind the pulley against the spring...usually 3-4 turns are enough to get the cord to wind back onto the pulley when released. I usually start with 36" inches of cord and wind until the pulley will fill and still have tension and the install the handle. If when you're all done and the handle doesn't stay under tension or later won't stay in the socket just remove the recoil, pull out a bout a foot of cord and with it in the indent again wind it one more revolution or until there is always tension on the handle.
 
Top