Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

So my next project .. Jonsered 930
It has some scoring all on the exhaust side of the cylinder . I would assume it got very hot because some of the paint around the muffler was black from the heat . The saw was absolutely packed with saw dust ..all the cylinder fins and all around the flywheel so I'm sure it wasn't cooling properly.
What would most likely of been the culprit for this ?
Thanks!
Ernie

I'm with Clyde. lean run from crank seals or straight gassed. If you polish out the transfers or remove with muriatic acid....and your finger nail can still catch a groove, pitch and find another jug. Piston looks like toast.

Unless you can find an NOS Meteor piston & jug, the next best would be a sound, used OE piston & jug with Caber rings.

Kevin

 

[wcorey]

I made a pattern but it doesn't seem to want to harden. I think it just isn't very good steel.

Wes..

Circular saw blades (non carbide) make good harden-able material for dogs.
Heat to red and cool slowly to soften/anneal and heat red/quench to harden, then heat to just when it starts to turn blue/violet to temper down.

 

[Clyde85]

Circular saw blades (non carbide) make good harden-able material for dogs.
Heat to red and cool slowly to soften/anneal and heat red/quench to harden, then heat to just when it starts to turn blue/violet to temper down.

Thanks a lot. I may have some of those around.

 

[Clyde85]

Circular saw blades (non carbide) make good harden-able material for dogs.
Heat to red and cool slowly to soften/anneal and heat red/quench to harden, then heat to just when it starts to turn blue/violet to temper down.

Now would that be like cord saws or mill blades or skill or table saw blades?

 

[Cantdog]

Now would that be like cord saws or mill blades or skill or table saw blades?

I'm gonna guess a quality 10-12" tablesaw blade with a 0.125" kerf (not thin kerf) would be the right thickness and enough area to get a good sized set out of. A rotary mill blade like a 48 or 52" would be close to 1/4" thick...pretty heavy for a chainsaw....tablesaw blade would be slightly less than 1/8" thick, about the same as most dogs.

 

[Clyde85]

I'm gonna guess a quality 10-12" tablesaw blade with a 0.125" kerf (not thin kerf) would be the right thickness and enough area to get a good sized set out of. A rotary mill blade like a 48 or 52" would be close to 1/4" thick...pretty heavy for a chainsaw....tablesaw blade would be slightly less than 1/8" thick, about the same as most dogs.

Thanks cantdog. I was kind of thinking that would be the case. It's been along time since l had anything to do with a cord saw or circular saw mill. I was still pretty young when we were using them at home.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Anything that approximates 10 gauge of decent steel, somewhat hard, is gonna work fine.

I've got 40yrs on those dawgs I did and I've touched up the points once. They were cut out carefully with a torch and flashing ground off....maybe a wee bit of grinding and that's it. But I fabricated a lot in those days, so that was like child's play.

I haven't lit up my torch since the farm in MO....'95. There's the issue of owning/renting bottles and who fills them etc. I wound up once in another part of the country with big bottles and no one would fill them. Not doing that again. I think the big push is to buy the medium bottles now instead of renting anything. That's the way it is here, anyway.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, an old Skil saw blade would make an excellent dawg if it was thick enough. I've got a whole pile of used blades.

They used to make knife blades outa big hacksaw blades until knife makers got all fancy with exotica steels.

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

The club makes me carry a Stihl MS261cm in the groomer, but this is my choice for my personal ride.

 

[ErnieG]

I'm replacing the clutch on my 910e and ordered new sprocket/drum and bearing .
When I received the new bearing is was quit a bit larger then my original.
It's I.D is larger...being very sloppy on the crank and it's taller so I can't install the metal keeper ring that holds it onto the crank .
My original set up has a spacer between the bearing and crank seal which I would assume keeps the bearing from riding against the seal and wearing it out over time .
Anyone have any idea why the new one is much larger then original?
Thanks very much!
Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

Chinesium/bad vendor.

Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

Chinesium/bad vendor.

Kevin

Chinesium/bad vendor.

Kevin

I was thinking the same thing!
Could you recommend a good provide for these bearings ?
Thanks
Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

First off, where did you get it?

Try chainsawr or sawagain. Some Jonsereds clutch drums are specific to their saws....have a 'hump' across the surface, yet you'll be sold a flat surface drum for replacement.

A OE used drum is fine as long as it has 2mm on its sidewall thickness.

Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

First off, where did you get it?

Try chainsawr or sawagain. Some Jonsereds clutch drums are specific to their saws....have a 'hump' across the surface, yet you'll be sold a flat surface drum for replacement.

A OE used drum is fine as long as it has 2mm on its sidewall thickness.

Kevin

I got this one from Lil Red Barn

The drum and sprocket are good they are identical to the original.
It's just the bearing I'm having the hard time finding .
I'll check out sawagain.... chainsawr didn't have anything in stock .
I appreciate the help !
Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

I got this one from Lil Red Barn

The drum and sprocket are good they are identical to the original.
It's just the bearing I'm having the hard time finding .
I'll check out sawagain.... chainsawr didn't have anything in stock .
I appreciate the help !
Ernie

If nothing else, maybe you can they can get the measurements off your old bearing and a bearing house can get it.

I've had trouble with Lil Red Barn in the past. They're one of the outfits that refuses to give you the origin of parts.....like it's of no consequence.

Kevin

 

[bulletpruf]

Another sprocket bearing issue - I have an Oregon rim drive sprocket on my 110 - it's a 12643. Of course, these are NLA. The drum is fine, but the bearing is suspect. I e mailed Oregon to see if they might be able to tell me what bearing I need, but I'm not going to hold my breath on them having that info. Any ideas? I think my only option at this point is to try to match it up using the size. It's also smaller than the bearing used on my spur drive 110/111 sprockets, so no luck there.

EDIT: It's .660" tall, .700" wide, at the lip, it's .045" thick. In metric, that's 16.75mm tall, 17.80mm wide, 1.10mm thick at the lip.

 

[sled_22]

Does anyone know what size the metric threaded hole is for a 2095 bar stud. Found out my studs were jb welded in by the PO and i'd like to helicoil them and want to run the thread size by someone else.
Or if anyone has any other great ideas or replacement bar studs I should pick up, that would be very helpful too. I feel like I need to go as big of a thread as possible due to the amount of case that's already been removed. Otherwise will have to weld some material in for the heli-coil.
Thanks,

 

[Clyde85]

I had a friend of mine make me a custom stud for a 120 Sachs Dolmar that case was stripped out.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Another sprocket bearing issue - I have an Oregon rim drive sprocket on my 110 - it's a 12643. Of course, these are NLA. The drum is fine, but the bearing is suspect. I e mailed Oregon to see if they might be able to tell me what bearing I need, but I'm not going to hold my breath on them having that info. Any ideas? I think my only option at this point is to try to match it up using the size. It's also smaller than the bearing used on my spur drive 110/111 sprockets, so no luck there.

EDIT: It's .660" tall, .700" wide, at the lip, it's .045" thick. In metric, that's 16.75mm tall, 17.80mm wide, 1.10mm thick at the lip.

Scott...it didn't take me long, but I found an original drum & bearing for my 111S on Ebay. So they're out there still and it came with a bearing and a rim sprocket... a complete kit, still in the Oregon box. Weird that the spur drive drum takes a differnt bearing.

Doubtful Oregon will be able to help. Do you want me to measure my bearing for you?

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Scott...it didn't take me long, but I found an original drum & bearing for my 111S on Ebay. So they're out there still and it came with a bearing and a rim sprocket... a complete kit, still in the Oregon box. Weird that the spur drive drum takes a differnt bearing.

Doubtful Oregon will be able to help. Do you want me to measure my bearing for you?

Kevin

Does anyone know what size the metric threaded hole is for a 2095 bar stud. Found out my studs were jb welded in by the PO and i'd like to helicoil them and want to run the thread size by someone else.
Or if anyone has any other great ideas or replacement bar studs I should pick up, that would be very helpful too. I feel like I need to go as big of a thread as possible due to the amount of case that's already been removed. Otherwise will have to weld some material in for the heli-coil.
Thanks,

I have a 2094, so it would be the same thing. I would use a steel insert like EZ-Loc. Better than helicoil. The inserts are quite a bit bigger than the original thread and are tapped....but I don't don't know how much damage you have. They have thinwall and regular....the OD of the regular inserts are the same, but they give you different thread pitches for your convenience.

Mag is very soft and so whenever I tap into it, I do everything by hand....no drill.

Kevin