I tried to post several times a few minutes ago; had to use Photobucket. Here's what I was posting -- sorry for the non-111 content, but at least it's a Jonsereds!
Jonsereds 110/111/111S Info Sharing Thread
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Kevin
Kevin
James Miller
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What's a fare price for a 111s? My dealer may be letting a nice one go from his collection and I'd like to have an idea of what to offer.
Tough question to answer. A lot depends on the condition you desire. These saws could be had for $350 or less ten yrs ago, complete and running. Then five yrs ago it was more like $550+ and more recently on eBay, $750-$1,000+.
If you found one at a dealer that you know, I would think considerably less than $1,000 now, unless he goes by eBay rules.
Scott, the OP of this thread did me a solid on a recent 111S sale. If he hadn't, I'd never have owned/found one. I don't go to GTG's and so my exposure to saws/parts these days is only on the Net. I lost out decades ago not going around the PNW and scooping up big cc saws languishing in garages and sheds. I knew they'd be valuable, but I had other hobbies/collections.
If your dealer is going by eBay rules, expect $750+.........if he's asking less than that, pounce on it and don't look back. If he has any other of the Jonsereds big cc saws, pounce on them too.....like the 80/801/90/910. If you can get it for less than $750 and it's in damned nice shape, you stole it. You can't lose.....you can always dump it on eBay for the collector who has deep pockets.
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have no intentions of flipping the saw if I get it. I ran a few 80s and 90s and a 655bp and got hooked on the big old saws. It would be a gtg/shelf queen saw. But just like guns and cars, I wouldn't own a saw i won't run.
Yeah, I was just sayin' if you thought you'd paid too much to your dealer guy, you could always dump it on eBay and get your money back. As we pay more and more for these saws, that happens less & less I think....the dumping part...lol.
Right now, you can't really lose on a good 111S....there seems to be no upper limit at present for a nice one. I remember some yrs back a Husky 2101 NIB, never any oil or gas through it, ran over $3,000 on eBay.....no kidding.
Kevin
Right now, you can't really lose on a good 111S....there seems to be no upper limit at present for a nice one. I remember some yrs back a Husky 2101 NIB, never any oil or gas through it, ran over $3,000 on eBay.....no kidding.
Kevin
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I tried to post several times a few minutes ago; had to use Photobucket. Here's what I was posting -- sorry for the non-111 content, but at least it's a Jonsereds!
I mentioned the two different felling/bucking dogs recently. Here's a pic showing both. You can see the smaller dogs zip tied to the handle on the one saw; I had them removed for shipping and haven't reinstalled yet. 
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm gonna buy the saw probably around Christmas. I cant say no going by what you say they go for these days.
The smaller dawgs are considered felling dawgs for thin skinned small diameter trees. The larger dawgs are considered bucking spikes (for leverage) or felling on thick bark, large diameter trees. Jonsereds seemed to issue most of their saws set up with the smaller dawgs from the factory. Because of the cc size of the 110/111/111S and potential uses, the dawgs that came on that saw seem to be a mixed bag, although I would wager a guess that any 110/111/111S sold through Tilton Equipment of OR came with the larger dawgs.
I've given away several sets of the smaller J'reds dawgs.
Kevin
I would be interested in the clutch drums & shoe weights if they are for a 111S. I can only find the J'reds#'s from the IPL. I don't have the OR drum conversion #'s anymore....still looking.
I just sent Oregon a request for help with that #....doesn't mean I'll get anything useful back.
If someone has a 111S with an OR drum, the# off that would sure help.
Kevin
I’ll check when I get home and see what drum I have on the 111S. I hope it’s not that spur drive or it’s going in the trash (the drum, not the saw...lol!).
Kevin
Kevin
@atlarge54 - I'll check my jugs when I get home and see what I can find out. Between my saws and my spares, I have several, so it would be helpful to try to list the different ones here.
Scott
Scott
Bits of info are starting to filter in from the Tilton guy. He says the 110 was never sold in the US. And that the crank bearings are needle instead of ball bearings. He said if you look at the cases carefully where the bearings are, you’ll spot the difference.
Kevin
Kevin
Ok, more details on the jugs, pistons, carburetors, and flywheels...
I checked all 8 of my jugs - they are all 56ZN4, presumably all Mahle. The ones that weren't installed on saws, I could also see if they had additional markings -- all were Mahle, and were either marked W1 or W2 as well.
The carburetors - all Tillotson HS. The 110 has a Tilly HS1010, also stamped E91. The other saws were all HS112A with one exception -- the latest 111S I have #717131 has an HS112B.
All the flywheels are aluminum except for the saw that's either a 110 or a 111 - it has a plastic flywheel.
Pistons -- good news -- it looks like a Dolmar 166 piston may fit. I compared the two and they're pretty darn close. Both pistons are for a 56 mm bore, so the skirts measure about 55.91 mm. The piston pins are 14 mm for both, so the Dolmar piston should install just fine on a 111 crank. The compression height (I think I'm using the right term here) appears to be the same on both -- 25 mm -- that's from the center of the pin to the top of the piston. The 111 piston has a very slight dome and the 166 piston is a flat-top, but I don't think it's enough to make much of a difference at all. The 166 piston has a bit of a longer skirt (I need to try to get some measurements) so it may need to be trimmed just a tad to fit. FYI - @leeha had some beautiful 166 pistons custom made by Wiseco; I got one from him and probably need to source a few more.
Also still searching for a few more parts; I really need an air filter cover for a 111S. If you have one or know where I can find one, please message me. I have 111 parts to trade or I can trade green paper, too. Also realized tonight that I need a flywheel, too. One of my saws has a jacked up flywheel.
thanks
Scott
I checked all 8 of my jugs - they are all 56ZN4, presumably all Mahle. The ones that weren't installed on saws, I could also see if they had additional markings -- all were Mahle, and were either marked W1 or W2 as well.
The carburetors - all Tillotson HS. The 110 has a Tilly HS1010, also stamped E91. The other saws were all HS112A with one exception -- the latest 111S I have #717131 has an HS112B.
All the flywheels are aluminum except for the saw that's either a 110 or a 111 - it has a plastic flywheel.
Pistons -- good news -- it looks like a Dolmar 166 piston may fit. I compared the two and they're pretty darn close. Both pistons are for a 56 mm bore, so the skirts measure about 55.91 mm. The piston pins are 14 mm for both, so the Dolmar piston should install just fine on a 111 crank. The compression height (I think I'm using the right term here) appears to be the same on both -- 25 mm -- that's from the center of the pin to the top of the piston. The 111 piston has a very slight dome and the 166 piston is a flat-top, but I don't think it's enough to make much of a difference at all. The 166 piston has a bit of a longer skirt (I need to try to get some measurements) so it may need to be trimmed just a tad to fit. FYI - @leeha had some beautiful 166 pistons custom made by Wiseco; I got one from him and probably need to source a few more.
Also still searching for a few more parts; I really need an air filter cover for a 111S. If you have one or know where I can find one, please message me. I have 111 parts to trade or I can trade green paper, too. Also realized tonight that I need a flywheel, too. One of my saws has a jacked up flywheel.
thanks
Scott
Scott, I would imagine the only difference between theHS112A and the HS112B would probably be a govenor. The rebuild kits are all the same. Tilly started to use govenors a lot in the late 70's. Look for the brass plug that indicates a Tilly govenor.
I remember reading in here (or the pig site) about the Dolmar 166 piston in a 111. I think the skirt needs to be trimmed and that was it.....can't find the thread now. Domed versus flat top; given that the jugs are the same, you'll get more compression out of the piston which equates to torque. Whether or not the average user will feel and see any difference.....dunno.
All the jugs should be Mahle. Possibly like Husky, they had slightly different bores; the W1 & W2. Be interesting to measure for differences.
Kevin
I remember reading in here (or the pig site) about the Dolmar 166 piston in a 111. I think the skirt needs to be trimmed and that was it.....can't find the thread now. Domed versus flat top; given that the jugs are the same, you'll get more compression out of the piston which equates to torque. Whether or not the average user will feel and see any difference.....dunno.
All the jugs should be Mahle. Possibly like Husky, they had slightly different bores; the W1 & W2. Be interesting to measure for differences.
Kevin
I'll check for the brass plug on the 112B.
I remember reading the same thread, but not sure where it was.
If you lose a bit of squeeze with the dome, you can always make it up with a gasket delete...
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking on the jugs. At first I thought it might be an earlier and later version, but I was seeing W2's on older saws and W1's on newer ones, which would appear to be backwards.
I have another 110/111/111S on the way - said to be an NOS short block (albeit with 40+ years of shelf wear), with a 110 lid. I'll likely use the case on one of my saws that has a bit of corrosion.
I remember reading the same thread, but not sure where it was.
If you lose a bit of squeeze with the dome, you can always make it up with a gasket delete...
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking on the jugs. At first I thought it might be an earlier and later version, but I was seeing W2's on older saws and W1's on newer ones, which would appear to be backwards.
I have another 110/111/111S on the way - said to be an NOS short block (albeit with 40+ years of shelf wear), with a 110 lid. I'll likely use the case on one of my saws that has a bit of corrosion.
To verify if it's a true 110, are the main crank bearings needle nose or ball bearing?
Kevin
Kevin
Ok, wasn’t sure if those were you pics or not. Sorry.
I blow the last pic up and I think I’m seeing needles, but maybe because I want to...lol.
Kevin
