Jonsereds 110/111/111S Info Sharing Thread

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I would be interested in the clutch drums & shoe weights if they are for a 111S. I can only find the J'reds#'s from the IPL. I don't have the OR drum conversion #'s anymore....still looking.

I just sent Oregon a request for help with that #....doesn't mean I'll get anything useful back.

If someone has a 111S with an OR drum, the# off that would sure help.

Kevin

I'll check mine - I have two fairly complete powerheads here.
 
I didn't try it. But he says it runs and I have no reason to doubt him. The P/C aren't original but he ordered the replacements from jonsereds when you could still get them from the factory. Theres a 49? Sitting there to might try to grab that.
 
Hmmm....don’t take his word for it if it’s been sitting a long time. Stale gas, plugged filter, corroded points etc. Don’t make an issue of it either....just keep that in the back of your mind when you’re trying to start it.

The 49 is a great little design, but it’s not a ‘pro’ line J’reds. They’ve cut a lot of firewood. 52E would outlast a couple of 49sp’s. Grab that if you have a choice.

Nobody cares if the P&C are original to the saw, as long as they were factory replacements. At least not yet anyway.....lol.

Put some Cabers in there and smile after a couple of tanks.

Kevin
 
Have any if you ever seen a jonsereds service manual for the 111? I got the ipl and a clymer service manual from ray benson. He says they've never been able to find a jonsereds service manual.
 
Have any if you ever seen a jonsereds service manual for the 111? I got the ipl and a clymer service manual from ray benson. He says they've never been able to find a jonsereds service manual.

I can’t say I’ve ever seen one for sale. If you know anyone who worked for Tilton or Scotsco they’d know.

Kevin
 
The drum is a correct Oregon drum for that saw. You can put a .404 rim on it as well.

They seem to have come from the factory with a .404 spur drive drum.....worthless on a saw of this size.

Most likely Scotsco and Tilton set them up with that Oregon drum and .404 chisel chain as they sold in the PNW.

Kevin
 
Yep mine came with the actual original spur drive and was in fine shape but was .404.......I picked up a kit off ebay a while back.....came with a new Oregon rim drive drum and a .404 X 7 rim and a 3/8 X 8 rim and a new bearing. I don't have any other .404 rigs and the 36" roller tip bar, though impressive is very heavy and I wanted to be able to run some of the lighter 20", 24". and 28" bars I have....they are all 3/8 so this was just what I needed.......can't remember the price but I expect I paid dearly.......as usual with ANYTHING connected to the 111S.....
 
Been sitting a long time...fuel lines, filter, carb kit.

I'd do a vacuum/pressure test on the crank seals as well. Lots of folks recently are frying valuable saws after a tank of so because the seals are letting go due to their age. New seals are cheap insurance......

I'd carefully clean that coke/carbon out of the exhaust port too....

Kevin
 
Carb,lines,and filter were on the list. Do you know of a good place to get seals if I need them?

A local seal/bearing place is best. Double lip seal;15X30X7.

Amazon has them but as a add-on for $25 or more in the TCM brand. You can't usually find them in 6mm thick, but easy to find in 7mm thickness. Same seal as the 80/90/801 crank seals.

Kevin
 
So I'm back with more questions. What should the compression be on these. I've run an 80 at a gtg and it would RIP the starter handle out of your hand. In the video I posted I closed the decomp befor the pull when it started. P/C are spotless. Could the rings be stuck or do the 111s not run the 200+psi the 80s and 90s seem to?
 
The older commercial saws like the Husky 2100 ran around 165psi from the factory. They rip with at least 150psi. I'm not sure what is typical from the factory for the 111S, but I know it will run with 150psi+. My old 80 I've used for 35yrs runs about 158psi and it rips. So....it's great if you have a 801/80/90 with 200psi+ but there's no reason to fret unless you are under 150psi.

A lot of these old saws now need new crank seals and if there's no transfers, you can slip in some new Cabers and continue on.

Kevin
 
The older commercial saws like the Husky 2100 ran around 165psi from the factory. They rip with at least 150psi. I'm not sure what is typical from the factory for the 111S, but I know it will run with 150psi+. My old 80 I've used for 35yrs runs about 158psi and it rips. So....it's great if you have a 801/80/90 with 200psi+ but there's no reason to fret unless you are under 150psi.

A lot of these old saws now need new crank seals and if there's no transfers, you can slip in some new Cabers and continue on.

Kevin
Thank you sir you have been alot of help with answering my questions.
 
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