Komatsu pull cord kicking back.

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You might try pulling it through with the spark plug wire disconnected from the spark plug (or ign switch off if it appears it's not flooding (hydrolocking) Might give ya a hint if it's timing, firing too fast.

If it don't kick back severely with the ignition killed, the timing is off, firing too soon BTDC, check gap on the spark plug, magneto air gap and flywheel key, flywheel key's groove and I hear about some guys setting timing without using a key.

You say it started good until you added fuel, that's a hint of flooding, (hydrolocking) remove fuel, let it set day or two with the spark plug out to dry out the innards and give it a crank test.
 
You might try pulling it through with the spark plug wire disconnected from the spark plug (or ign switch off if it appears it's not flooding (hydrolocking) Might give ya a hint if it's timing, firing too fast.

If it don't kick back severely with the ignition killed, check gap on the spark plug, magneto air gap and flywheel key, flywheel key's groove and I hear about some guys setting timing without using a key.

You say it started good until you added fuel, that's a hint of flooding, (hydrolocking) remove fuel, let it set day or two with the spark plug out to dry out the innards and give it a crank test.
I'll make a video of the machine running. Maybe you or someone can tell if it's misfiring from the video. I'll change the plug tomorrow and see where we are.
 
it's definately not flooding, I pulled the cord out that i placed inside the cylinder for a piston stop and the cord was clean and dry. The spark plug was black and covered in carbon when i pulled that though.
 
Having looked at the redmax G621 AVS TheBrush Slasher posted, Very similar saw design.
 
All that because a saw pulled the rope out of his hand? I'm in my 60's and it happens all the friggin time now.
I'm pretty sure this is a metaphor for something else entirely unrelated to chainsaws and more medical in nature. See Doctor strangelove and take one before bedtime.
 
Does this look sheared, I can't tell,? The lip of the flywheel doesn't allow me to get a look for a shaft groove.
 

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I'm wondering if you are having trouble removing the flywheel so as to get a better look at the key??????

Does the saw pull through easier if you kill the ignition spark? (If so it's a hint that it's firing too soon)

If don't pull through easier with no spark, could be carbon build-up. (or someone purposely increased the squish maybe) Have you checked the compression?

Not lot of parts readily available for that saw so handle the dinosaur egg carefully.;)
 
I'm wondering if you are having trouble removing the flywheel so as to get a better look at the key??????

Does the saw pull through easier if you kill the ignition spark? (If so it's a hint that it's firing too soon)

If don't pull through easier with no spark, could be carbon build-up. (or someone purposely increased the squish maybe) Have you checked the compression?

Not lot of parts readily available for that saw so handle the dinosaur egg carefully.;)


I dont have a flywheel puller at the moment and i dont want to start hitting it with a hammer. The machine is clean, very little use. No signs of carbon build up in the usual places.

I'm pretty sure the Redmax G621 avsis the same machine. Could matbe source parts from there or try and buy a donor machine.

I believe that key is sheared. i'll only be doing a couple of jobs with it a year anyway.
 
Most of the time I can put the nut on the crank flush, set a socket on in and while holding up on the flywheel, give the socket a good wrap and get the flywheel to pop loose.
 
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