Komatsu pull cord kicking back.

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I dont have a flywheel puller at the moment and i dont want to start hitting it with a hammer.

I suspected that.

I do as kz1000 suggests, if not puller threaded holes, I don't like to use the whacko method either and I hope that not over 3 whacks gets it loose, but I use a brass hammer with the flywheel nut set flush with the top of the threads or end of crank. If the flywheel has partly sheared the key it will come off easier usually.

If 3rd whack don't get it loose I've used a propane pencil tip torch and warmed the flywheel little bit. Don't get the crankshaft hot, just get the flywheel warm, aluminum expands faster than steel so it don't take much warming of the flywheel out from the crank. Let it set about minute after warming before the whack or even let it cool and re-heat before the whack.

On some Homilites I can use flywheel puller screws into the starter pawl holes. I've seen some tough ones and the heat and cool will get the tough ones.
When you get it off de-grease and clean the crank and flywheel taper good. Some don't realize the key is only for timing the flywheel and proper torque of the nut is what actually holds the flywheel from shearing the key. Any oil/grease, etc, on the taper will cause a properly torqued flywheel to shear a new key again eventually, usually.
 
These two threaded holes either side of the shaft are obviously used for popping the flywheel off, but insted of using a flywheel puller could i just screw in two 6mm bolts all the way down to the crank case and use them to push the flywheel off. The crank case wont break will it?[photo=medium]5308[/photo]
 
These two threaded holes either side of the shaft are obviously used for popping the flywheel off, but insted of using a flywheel puller could i just screw in two 6mm bolts all the way down to the crank case and use them to push the flywheel off. The crank case wont break will it?[photo=medium]5308[/photo]

Yes, it will break something. Never ever screw any bolts deep or through a flywheel. You really have to be careful even if you know what is behind the flywheel, like for example on a points and condenser system. Most real flywheel puller bolts are shoulder bolts to prevent going all the way through the flywheel and the flywheel should still rotate freely after you install the puller's stud bolts into the flywheel holes.. A heavy duty steering wheel puller would be a help to you.

Just some general info: from experience

For the two bolt type flywheels I use a puller similar to this. Lot of steel on this type pullers arms. Make sure each (of the two bolts) bolt is even when starting the pull. I use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, usually.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Stee...023078&hash=item3b0cf4cf2a:g:sK8AAOSwRWVa-EnC

When you get it tightened down snug with the center puller bolt, give the center puller bolt a sharp whack, then if no pop re-snug let it sit a bit then whack again.. Be sure and leave the flywheel nut installed but loose. Save all your pullers, puller bolts, shim washers and hardware in a big tool box.

That is a Lisle puller and a auto parts store can order one for you. You will have to get correct length 6mm bolts after you get the puller, so as to gauge the correct length bolts (studs) and a handful of shim washers so as to keep the center puller's bolt as short as possible.
 
Can the engine still run if the woodruff key has snapped and the flywheel has shifted round a few degrees
 
I made a template up for a puller. Looks easy enough to make one.
 

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I missed the threaded holes in the flywheel, sorry! Just drill two holes id a piece of flat shock, put the nut on and tighten the bolts against the flat stock setting on the nut.
 
Just ordered one of these. This should pop that bad boy off. The bolts might be the wrong size/thread but i have the correct bolts here ready to go. I'll pop the flywheel and see where we are.
 

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Ok, where were we.
Flywheel off and woodruff key intact. pic 1.
 

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While i was in there i decided to take off the coil and give it a good clean and found this. Looks, to my eyes anyway, like one of the lugs at the rear has at some point snapped and someone has tried to solder the kill switch wire back on. That having failed also they have decided to go for the attach a electric terminal and use thetightening down screws to attach it to the body. Could this be the problem with the backfire. Hmmm ?
 

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Would need more pictures of the coil? What I see is MAYBE a ground lug into the laminations which seems like probably ok..

What I see is doubtful of out of time causes..

If that rig has points/condenser I would take a very careful look at the points GAP. If the points gap is less or closer than it should be the timing would be off. (common for rubbing points block to wear down and points gap get closer) I would go ahead and replace at least the points with new and gap them to full opening specs. Usually re-gapping old points is kinda like peeing into the wind. I usually also replace a condenser if it comes as a set or readily available.
(and get the magneto air gap correct at the flywheel magnets.
Drag a piece of clean white non fuzzy paper through the new or old points with them closed after you gap them. I use white because I can see if I got any scum. (as a cleaner) A $1 bill is good for such, or even a $100 bill when working on a good saw like for example a Stihl.;)

Even new points will sometimes have a oil type dried coating and won't make contact.
 
I dontbelieve it has points. they would be under the flywheel attached to the crank case.surely.
[photo=medium]5319[/photo]
 
coil pics. let me know if you need better pics at a different angle.
[photo=small]5317[/photo]
[photo=small]5320[/photo]
[photo=small]5321[/photo]

[photo=small]5324[/photo]
 
The Solder blob (Yellow arrow) I'm thinking a lug was attached here for one of the kill switch wires and after a failure, or as a cheap fix at the factory, they added a round electrical connector and simple bolted it on a different place using the coil bolt instead (see green arrow)... I could be wrong. Just a thought. The solder blob doesn't seem to be serving a purpose?. The blob above in red in just a big dollop of hot glue.

[photo=small]5328[/photo]
I also made a kill switch up. The original one on the machine is a bit iffy.
[photo=small]5331[/photo]
 
Could someone tell me if the kill switch wire hase been moved deliberately from this solder (yellow arrow) to the coil bolt (green arrow)..?
[photo=small]5328[/photo]
 
Just checked the HT lead, Should there not be a something at the bottom of it to connect with the top of the spark plug. I can see a bit of copper on the side wall. Is this normal and enough to allow the spark plug to function as normal. ?
[photo=medium]5334[/photo]
 
No lotion no motion. :dancing:
It's a bottle of 100% alcohol. [photo=medium]5335[/photo][photo=small]5335[/photo]

Anyway, shouldn't the plug boot have one of these at the base.
 
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