On the plus side i learned how to fix the blocked oiler, make a new kill switch, pop a flywheel and check the shear key, set the air gap on the coil, change a pull cord without the spring decapitating me, adjust the carburettor, sharpen a chain and much much more.See, you learned how to start it way back then before all the tearing into it. Is this where I'm supposed to say "I told you so"?
Sexy beast..this is how i rock a Kilt.
You did and i ignored you. my bad.
Yep, almost flood one and hang on to the rope. Hurts. I'm almost 71. Another thing you see on YouTube is guys hitting the Kill Switch and no slack in the pull rope. Everything with a pull rope may at times jerk the pull rope when the motor is killed. I was taught to pull 18 or so inches of rope out and hold it snugly in my gloved hand at the time of Killing the motor. Sometimes nothing happens. Other times that rope jerks but slips enough so the back kick takes up slack but don't damage the motor. Some of my Sthils seldom jerk the rope. The smaller the saw the more likely it's gonna jerk. My Echo's jerk back when I kill the motors most often but start faster, easier more often than the Sthils. When a saw attempts to Start and jerks the pull rope hard most often the motor back fired. Usually, it fired with to much fuel. Normally push the choke in, hold the trigger open and she'll start right up next pull. Kick back can either shear the flywheel key or Wallow it out enough to create some slack. I've started many saws with bar and chain removed. I've never seen any problems from that. Most cheap 4 cycle lawn mowers DO use the blade weight to assist the lack of enough weight in flywheels. Remove the blade and be ready for kickback on the pull rope. It can hurt you. On those types of engines I've learned they need a load to start properly but never on any Chainsaw of mine. Even the old Poulan saws were tuned without chains. Without a chain the bar does not load the engine because the clutch is not loaded. Balance yes but never run a saw without the Clutch cover. I've lost bar nuts without the bar mounted and had a clutch come off. Do my option is, it's safer to remove the chain but tighten bar and clutch cover to run. Just wear gloves and don't assume you can safely hold the bar because the chain is gone. Bad habits create bad accidents. It's easy to get in a habit of grabbing a chain less bar when tuning a carb. That's my experience. Thankfully, I've never forgotten because I check before I touch. You may simply have no problem that experience can't solve. Good luck.
I'm guessing my post, long winded as h##l,. Probably covered that. When you kill it you MAY wish to pull some rope out so the saw don't break a rope, damage a start assembly, or Wallow the flywheel key or shear it. One more thing. Everytime that I buy a new saw I personally put an extra bit of oil on that NEW chain rather than run it and wait for the saw to oil it. I check my bar nuts often and check to see IF the bar, chain or bar nuts are getting hot.I'm an Idiot.
If you have been following this thread then I'm sorry...I'm really really sorry for asking as many questions and flooding the page with so many pics. And here's why.
I tore the saw apart, bought a flywheel puller, only to find the woodruff key was fine. Poked things I probably shouldn't have been poking. added a new kill switch, well, just in case. Clean everything that needed cleaning and stuck it all back together. Only to discover it was still hard to pull. #*"@##!!!
2 weeks of watching videos and reading up on saw maintenance, endless hours spent searching for service manuals and parts to no avail. Stuck the machine back together, fired some DW 40 into the cylinder and left it an hour.
Tried again to pull it over. Still hard to pull. Pulled the spark plug boot, still hard to pull...
Finally, before I gave up altogether and tossed it I decided to just go for it one last time and really put my back into it with the boot off...Hell, If I snap something I snap it, Doesn't matter, The saws got problems and parts are obsolete. lesson learned and move on.
Well, low and behold it felt easy to pull. So spark plug boot back on and give it some welly on the pull cord. Boom!!!, No hard pull and no backfire, Running like a champ.
I've stopped and started this machine all day. I can actually pull on it now without having to put my foot on the handle to hold it down...Here's the kicker. Turns out the problem was Me. I have been pulling it like a big girls arse. Probably because I got a bit scared the first time it backfired and psychologically wasn't pulling hard enough just in case I might hurt my fingy wingys again.
So once again, So sorry to bust your balls with questions and multi pics. I let that backfire get into my head. Maybe a lesson for all those,(and I'm not the only one) with questions on hard to pull saws.
Put yer back into it and dont be such a Big Girls Arse.
btw, is the engine running a bit rich?
New Plug. Then again maybe just the result of the engine burning off the WD 40.
