Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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I''l be the first to admit I have not read every post in this thread, but in the ones I have read here as well as the posts in Lakes muffler mod thread I have not seen mention of opening up where the muffler meets the cylinder.

I just pulled apart my new-to-me 046 and found that while the metal gasket matched well to the size of the port, the heat shield and muffler itself (all OEM stuff) were notably smaller in size so I bolted those parts together and opened everything up to match the opening of the gasket as the first step in my 046 muffler mod. I think that will help a bunch on its own.

I have another idea for the main mod that I will post here if I am successful!
 
I call it the "Monster" mod cause it reminds me of the monster energy drink logo :D Runs like a top!

a>

WTF is this??? you copied my idea! haha. nah it'a all good. glad you admire me
 
here's a poulan 4218avx muffler mod....

more detail in my other thread about this "poulan 4218avx build" but thought i would show the pic here also
 
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Husky OE 346xp muff mod. Does this look like it'll work? 1/2" hole under deflecter.
I'll put a screen in it soon.

Ran it a little this morning, cut 10" sycamore like butter. This saw has always run very strong though, so hard to tell if this helped. Need to tune the carb and really put it to work

MM1.jpg
 
Husky OE 346xp muff mod. Does this look like it'll work? 1/2" hole under deflecter.
I'll put a screen in it soon.

Ran it a little this morning, cut 10" sycamore like butter. This saw has always run very strong though, so hard to tell if this helped. Need to tune the carb and really put it to work

MM1.jpg

I like how you did that..no welding required! She must sound a lot different. That's a great saw even without a mod...you must notice a difference!
 
Husky OE 346xp muff mod. Does this look like it'll work? 1/2" hole under deflecter.
I'll put a screen in it soon.

Ran it a little this morning, cut 10" sycamore like butter. This saw has always run very strong though, so hard to tell if this helped. Need to tune the carb and really put it to work

MM1.jpg

Looks fine to me, as long as it runs good after carb adjustment. The only thing I see missing is a spark arrestor screen.
 
I like how you did that..no welding required! She must sound a lot different. That's a great saw even without a mod...you must notice a difference!

Thanks , I've seen the factory deflectors used in this manner with screws. So figured I could make a deflector and do same. Yes, sounds different. I guess I did notice a difference, it cut like a screaming banshee :D
 
Thanks! I made it like this so I could add a screen, will get, or make one soon.

I know one of the professional saw builders on here builds his saws with a similar muffler mod. He buys the OEM Husky parts from Bailey's I believe to do his. Not sure if he uses a thread lock compound or not. Not sure how that would hold up to the heat.
 
I know one of the professional saw builders on here builds his saws with a similar muffler mod. He buys the OEM Husky parts from Bailey's I believe to do his. Not sure if he uses a thread lock compound or not. Not sure how that would hold up to the heat.

Belive it's Brad the porting king using this method. Seems the heat would void the thread locker. If I have trouble I'll try it, or lock washers.
 
XP371 Mod or not?

After reading this thread I got all fired up and rushed out to do this to my Husky 371XP. Took it apart and was thinking about whether or not to do a pipe or just a screen that's held on by the bracket.

Well, I got to looking at it and the muff is empty....just a tin can. The exhaust is out the top of the can and has a screen that can be changed, but that's all. The opening is huge....well, maybe not huge, but easily 85% the size of the stock exhaust port, probably more according to my micrometer eyeball. So I just slapped the whole kit and caboodle back together.

Is there much, if anything, to be gained on this pre-EPA saw by carving up the muff? I'm ready to do it, if somebody can demonstrate that this model benefits from a muffendectomy. The saw runs great and has for years, so maybe leaving well enough alone might be the ticket.

Comments please!
 
If that's the case, I don't see it benefitting enough.

On a tangent to another thread I saw, my dealer noted the 362 coming out a second [of perhaps 20seconds average] ahead of a [somewhat different than here] muff-modded 361, but was quite impressed (didn't test it in wood) with mine done as shown previously in this thread.

Further tangent: :clap: to my dealer who noted "cool muffler mod!" when I asked him to tach it [which he did free - after which I spent $100+ on chains and wedges] to confirm my ear tuning [a bit rich] a while after I did the mod in this thread.
 
Just did a muffler mod to my 029 this afternoon, can take a few pics and put them up for you if you think it would help. It was fairly simple, and didn't take too long (no welding involved). It is definitely more peppy.

I'd really like to know what size holes you drilled, or how much you opened up the muffler. Also, did you mess with the baffles inside which redirect the flow right after the exhuast port?
 
I'm thinking of doing Lakeside53's famous 361 muffler mod on mine.

I'm thinking of tigging (braze welding) it with silicon bronze filler. Is there any problem(s) I should look out for with that?
 
I've never done TIG welding, but you just have to be careful that the temp doesn't get too high. The muffler casing is pretty thin (about 0.080") so you don't want to damage it. The oxy-fuel (propylene) torch I used on mine worked great.
 
Silicon Bronze works great, some of the muffler mods I have done are on .025" metal and I have used silicon bronze and regular steel filler. Its all in the weld prep if there is any rust.

I'm thinking of doing Lakeside53's famous 361 muffler mod on mine.

I'm thinking of tigging (braze welding) it with silicon bronze filler. Is there any problem(s) I should look out for with that?
 
You guys and your purdy muffler mods. Y'all have slammed Honda civic's, too? ;)

Here's my quick-n-easy dremel + Scrench mufmod:

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Yes, I do a mouse check before I fire her up. Come fire season I'll prolly put a Husky cover over it and screen it.
 
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