Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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I just did my Husqvarna 61 a few days ago and the difference was remarkable! I was so impressed and it was more noticeable than my two Jonsered 625II muffler mods! :wink2::D I did a small vent on the oposite side with (5) 3/8" on the plate.

I need to do something similar to the muffin on my 61. Did you do any port work to the saw? Here is the one I rebuilt last year. Piston and cylinder was perfect, replaced the ring and left the base gasket off. Did a 70% exhaust port on it. Runs well :msp_sneaky:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/99507-42.htm#post2839914
 
MS361muffler2.jpg


Here is my 361 muffler I did back in the day. Really helped the saw. I did the same type of mod on my old 441, I have a new M-Tronic now and not touched it yet


Steve
 
Husqvarna 61 muffler mod and porting

I haven't done any porting yet (time) but I want to. I saw your work and it looks nice, I'd like to do the same clean up to all the ports, maybe you could expound on what you did any port width numbers and performance difference. BTW I used a vent I ordered from parts tree and it fits perfect where I put it. I bought this saw off craigslist because it was so so clean but noticed it has some scoring on the piston which I'm hoping to clean up, since I won't spend $80. for a new piston...

I need to do something similar to the muffin on my 61. Did you do any port work to the saw? Here is the one I rebuilt last year. Piston and cylinder was perfect, replaced the ring and left the base gasket off. Did a 70% exhaust port on it. Runs well :msp_sneaky:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/99507-42.htm#post2839914
 
Thanks for the info! Here are my results.

Continuing from the earlier post in this thread showing the inside of the 361 muffler and spark arrester issues.


The easiest solution to adding a port is simple to drill a hole and insert a tube. Covering this with a screen is a poor choice as the surface area of the screen is small. Stihl solved this problem on the BR400/420/340/380 series of blowers (as far back as 1992 on the BR 400) by inserting a tube of screen material into the pipe. It folds back over the pipe and is secured by a clip. The screen is many times the area of the outlet, so flow restriction even with some blockage is minimal.

This can be used on any almost any saw where you need a spark arrester and are adding a port (so long as you have room inside). You can of course choose not to fit it, but so long as the tube is the correct dimension, you have the option of putting it back in!

attachment.php


There are two basic sizes available: One fits over a 14mm OD (roughly 1/2 inch ID) pipe and the othe over a 16mm OD thin wall pipe. The picture shows the 14mm version. I'll have the 16mm version is a day or so and will likely use this as the pipe is thin wall 9/16 ID tube will work and is easier to find (for me).

Part numbers:

14mm version (BR420 etc blower)
Screen - 4203 141 9005 $5.56
Clip - 4203 141 6600 $2.00

16mm version (TS 400 Cut-off saw)
Screen - 4223 141 9000 $4.25
Clip - 4223 141 6600 $3.25


I did not need to tear the muffler apart to do this modification. The only reason I did was to educate myself on the internals and space constraints. In the future, it's just drill a hole at 45 degrees, grind the bottom of a short tube at 45 (so the screen has maximum area inside the muffer), and braze it on. For those of you intimidated by the thought of brazing, it is dead easy and can be done with Mapp gas available at your local hardware store.

The easiest way to drill a big hole at 45 degrees in thin metal is to use a uni-bit or one of the cheaper clones. They look like this :

attachment.php



Here's the muffler back together (heated the crimp area "red" and crimped it back together):

attachment.php



This is what the 14mm screen looks like inside the muffler. The 16mm is longer.

attachment.php



Here's the completed muffler on the saw. The factory spark arrester and exhaust port are unmodified. Heck you could even put it back to "factory" by plugging the new port!

One nice coat of matt exhaust paint and a quick bake (450F for an hour in the convection oven!) and it's one tough coating and ready for work. Hmmm, looks like factory stock to me.

attachment.php




Questions? Improvements?

I know this post is several years old, but based on the number of people who have viewed it, it seems still popular. I thought I'd post my results of following Lakewood's procedure.
I picked up a 1/2" ID piece of steel pipe from the hardware store. It was thick walled and in the trays of misc. nuts and bolts. The steel was sold as a steel spacer, was 1" long and cost $1.80.

I had the local shop weld the metal on after I cut it at a 45 degree angle. Rather than drilling the hole in the exhaust first, I drilled it after the welding to reduce the chance of melting through. The welding cost me $20.00.
View attachment 222107


I ordered the smaller of the two spark screens which cost me about $6.00, and then picked up the clip from the hardware store for $.80. Due to the thick wall of the steel spacer I had to slightly slit the screen on the outside to make it fit over the outside.

Altogether this mod cost me less than $30.00. A coat of high temp paint and it was done.

View attachment 222108
 
Greatest thread ever. Worked on my 361 today.

I didn't find the info on muffler removal for the 361..so wanted to add it.

If your muffler has the 2 little rivets in the front,you will have to remove them with a screwdriver to access the torx screws. You will need:


-#27 torx
All you need to do is remove the 2 torx and bottom torx screw bolts and the muffler come straight out.
I was concerned about MIG welding black steel to the muffler, but it worked great.soldering didn't work for me.

20121104_175318.jpg

20121104_175443.jpg
 
338 xpt mod

Hey Guys, just finished up on the 338xpt and 460 mods. Port matched the exhaust port>gasket<to Muffler. Enlareged the mufler output to 1/2'' and smoothed out all edges. Welded an Eyelid over the output to direct the gases away from my hands ( FINALLY). Then Pulled the limiters and and tuned it up! Now it should be called the 338 screamingeaglePT. Wowza what a difference. Ran through some 8" spruce alot faster and more consistent. Alot less Lobing and slightly higher rpm. Havent fully finished the mods to the 460 yet, but I can only hope its a similar outcome. Have a pic of the 338 muffler, still a bit rough, but I'll clean it up and paint it tomorrow!:rock:

Oh and exhaust temps dropped 42degrees !!!:clap:

View attachment 279383
 
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Hey Guys, just finished up on the 338xpt and 460 mods. Port matched the exhaust port>gasket<to Muffler. Enlareged the mufler output to 1/2'' and smoothed out all edges. Welded an Eyelid over the output to direct the gases away from my hands ( FINALLY). Then Pulled the limiters and and tuned it up! Now it should be called the 338 screamingeaglePT. Wowza what a difference. Ran through some 8" spruce alot faster and more consistent. Alot less Lobing and slightly higher rpm. Havent fully finished the mods to the 460 yet, but I can only hope its a similar outcome. Have a pic of the 338 muffler, still a bit rough, but I'll clean it up and paint it tomorrow!:rock:

Oh and exhaust temps dropped 42degrees !!!:clap:

View attachment 279383

Nice job. How are you measuring temps? and Celsius?
 
Infrared thermometer ! and yes in Celcius. I operate at 3500 ft+ daily so rich conditions are easy to miss. So I've been checking exhaust temps on every job with a consistent drop in temps overall! This should give some extra life to the P&C while getting every bit of power from these lightweights.
 
Infrared thermometer ! and yes in Celcius. I operate at 3500 ft+ daily so rich conditions are easy to miss. So I've been checking exhaust temps on every job with a consistent drop in temps overall! This should give some extra life to the P&C while getting every bit of power from these lightweights.

Hey Does anyone else lose half of what is written on here?? My posts are getting shortend severly.......:dizzy:
 
IMG_20141121_155929.jpg IMG_20141121_153054.jpg IMG_20141121_152752.jpg

Hi all .. This is the exhaust from my Stihl 026 muffler wanted to make a mod so I need help ..
How best to do that and to be cautious of sparks ??

I was thinking to drill a hole in the center?
How to make the output part of the muffler?

Does someone have a picture ??

Thank you all
 
It would be best to start a new thread and keep this one about the 361. Or there are probably lots of threads/posts on 026 muffler mods. However, I've never seen an 026 muffler like yours. I'd start a new thread to discuss it.
 
It would be best to start a new thread and keep this one about the 361. Or there are probably lots of threads/posts on 026 muffler mods. However, I've never seen an 026 muffler like yours. I'd start a new thread to discuss it.
i got one just like it Brad ,its aftermarket

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It would be best to start a new thread and keep this one about the 361. Or there are probably lots of threads/posts on 026 muffler mods. However, I've never seen an 026 muffler like yours. I'd start a new thread to discuss it.
Not 100% sure but I think this is an oem Stihl European muffler.
 
You new members really missed out on a great guy in Lakeside Andy. He was a wealth of knowledge and always had time to help. I really enjoyed his posts and did a Lakside mod on my 361’s muffler many years ago. I was just running it this afternoon, great saw!


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