Large dead ash tree,

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Huskybill

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I have a big dead ash tree that the ash bores got to it. I'm on the fence wether to drop it myself. I'm good in the forest with steering trees on the way down. But this one needs a Jack to be sure. I'm not sure how bad rotten. Is it worth taking a chance?
 
Get a core tool for sample, how large is the tree, why does it need a jack?


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The tree I’m guessing is 48” diameter at base. A jack would make sure it goes the right direction. She’s leaning a tad.
 
Ash trees have always been considered the deadliest tree in the woods around here (and that's when they are healthy!) factor in the bug damage, dead limbs, and amount of brashieness in the holding wood and you have a potential for disaster. If you are confident in your abilities, and have previous experience with jacks than go for it. IMHO, if you have any doubts, call in a professional (with insurance ;) ). Just my two cents, others mileage may vary.

-Tom
 
If you have any thoughts about salvaging any lumber from it, don't drop it whole. The impact will likely create lots of cracks in the limbs and trunk. I've been slabbing logs from a similar size Ash and found a lot of damage clear down to the base.
 
Jacking dead or rotten trees is less then wise.

Too many factors that could go wrong, brittle hold wood, punky jack support, potential to chair, bits breaking off from up high and playing wack a mole with your head.

Jacking can be a benefit in that its less jarring then wedging, but the other factors make it harder on dead wood

In short, hire a pro, especially if you've never jacked a tree before.

But since we all know some folks is stubborn and wanna save a penny...

Get a minimum of a 20 ton jack (I use 25 t jacks and have bent the handles on em) back them up with wedges, cut the pocket square with the back cut so the jack starts life level, put a plate of thick aluminium or heavy steel over the ram (3/4 aluminium or 3/8 steel minimums), seat the jack so its supported on good wood, and leave room for at least 2 rows of wedges (you will need to stack em).

whether or not you do you're back cut first, largely depends on how sever the lean is, but I suggest doing so, then putting firm pressure on the jack and set the wedges firmly, before carefully creating the face, leave a little extra meat on the hold wood, you can always nibble it away once you start jacking.

If you can set a bobber or indicator (axe or wedge lightly stuck in back cut so its free to hang) before you start the face cuts, if tree is going backwards bobber will stand up, if going the correct direction, it will sag... honestly this is a pretty good habit to get into regardless.

Since its a dead tree, keep looking up, at all times, even slight vibration from the saw can cause breakage up high, so have your escape paths well beaten down and ready before you make the first cuts.

anyway, that there is a big tree, and potential for a world of hurt, so if you do it yourself, be very careful.
 
as an aside, I used the 25t jack to change a tire on the dump truck yesterday, 10,000 front end on er... jacking was done with a short handle and single handed with little effort, while Ive done pull ups on the handle trying to jack over trees...
 
Another thing I will add when jacking take your time there’s no reason to get in a hurry and pop it off straight up off the stump. Especially for a jack make sure all your cuts are square and level.
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that’s a 45 ton low pro with 1” aluminum plates on top and bottom.


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If you can set a bobber or indicator (axe or wedge lightly stuck in back cut so its free to hang) before you start the face cuts, if tree is going backwards bobber will stand up, if going the correct direction, it will sag... honestly this is a pretty good habit to get into regardless.

Cool tip.
toastbeer.gif
 
Jacking a dead tree is technique best reserved for experts. Like Northbear said the hinge can be very brittle and break when you are not expecting it to. I am not a fan of inexpensive hydraulic bottle jacks even though I have a couple. Tree jack are nearly $2,000.00 for a reason. I MUCH prefer a separate pump and jack with a long hose. Wedges need to be placed gently and kept snug but do not just swing away with the axe. Again like Northy said the impact can break limbs and bark off. You may only have a second to dodge a falling limb. If it hits you it can be life changing so keep your attention up in the canopy.

Next time don't let the tree die completely, take it down when there are still green leaves.

Can you get a hydraulic lift to where the tree is? There are small lifts that are surprisingly capable and stable that rent for a reasonable price. I have used one with great results. The one I used was towed to the site with a Toyota Highlander.
 
I’m not trolling. I’ll get to pics. I’m using a walker now and I have a blackbears roaming here all hours nigh n day. Do you want to shoot pics for me?
 
Why dont you fell it in the direction it's leaning ?? Or throw a line up over a big limb/branch to set a rope, and pull it down with a 3 ton winch or big tractor ?
Off course, if it's all new to you, DONT !
 
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