Large pine removal advice

[jpr2762]

Well- you guys have been fantastic with your help in providing ideas and insights utilizing all your years of arborist experiences and ambitions!!!! I'm really not surprised with the replies- just another typical forum platform with 1 or 2 people trying to help and the rest talking about all their skillsets they have and the ones I don't. I'm about 7 days into this project and this is what I've learned from nothing-------I will gaff this tree again and install a false crotch, practice my DRT at the bottom, reclimb DRT and flipline, finish my work and manually advance my false crotch up the tree- I will be slow but it will be safe. I cannot not find a single thing wrong with that process after reading and rereading and rereading the tree climbers companion.
That's the advice I'm looking for- TECHNIQUES!!! Only from your cutting experiences- Not my interpretations from a well written book

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Good luck. Please stay alive (and in 1 piece) and post some pics of the job at the end. Don't sacrifice safety for the sake of a picture though.

 

[GilksTreeFelling]

I don't do alot of climbing but I can tell you that it will be a lot safer to drop the tree whole and move the fence. The reason why very few are giving the advice you want tothear on this is likely because what your trying to do with the tools and experience you currently have is likely to end you up seriously injuring you or worse and we would have that on our concious of it does go wtong. Yes a person can climb 80+ ft on Spurs and take the tree down safely. But it requires practice at lower heights and a competent teacher that can show you how to safely do it. I suggest if your dead set on climbinn it put the project on hold for a bit and get in touch with someone who teaches arborists to see if they can spend a couple hours teaching you how to do it SAFELY in person. Even of it costs a couple bucks, no one here wants someone regardless of skill level to get hurt. And while some of seem overly cautious or paranoid about safety there is very good reasons for it. Do not take offense to it.

 

[jpr2762]

I don't do alot of climbing but I can tell you that it will be a lot safer to drop the tree whole and move the fence. The reason why very few are giving the advice you want tothear on this is likely because what your trying to do with the tools and experience you currently have is likely to end you up seriously injuring you or worse and we would have that on our concious of it does go wtong. Yes a person can climb 80+ ft on Spurs and take the tree down safely. But it requires practice at lower heights and a competent teacher that can show you how to safely do it. I suggest if your dead set on climbinn it put the project on hold for a bit and get in touch with someone who teaches arborists to see if they can spend a couple hours teaching you how to do it SAFELY in person. Even of it costs a couple bucks, no one here wants someone regardless of skill level to get hurt. And while some of seem overly cautious or paranoid about safety there is very good reasons for it. Do not take offense to it.

No offense taken- seriously!!! I'm here to learn!!! The field unfortunately is off limits- The tree's have to be chunked down from the top. I really am starting to believe this is a job that not a lot of people have encountered but no less the process of evaluation stays the same to me and it should for any other "arborist". Or I'd be willing to bet that the people that could offer advice on this scenario probably don't spend time on any forum cause there out getting the work done??? Who really knows why subjective analysis on proper climbing technique isnt happening??

 

[capetrees]

Ok, so what kind of rigging ropes do you have genius? Too scared to climb a tall tree? Run a rigging rope into the other larger tree, tied off to the bottom of the larger tree, get up into the skinny tree, tie off the upper 1/4 of the skinny tree to the rigging rope and cut the sucker, swinging it to the other tree. Climb down the tree you're in, lower the top by way of the other tree and repeat until it's all down. Then, put on your big boy pants and this time, climb as high as possible into the larger tree, bring your rigging rope up with you and tie off the top, cut it and let it fall free but then lower it from in the tree with the rigging rope. Climb down, untie the top, climb back up and repeat the process until it's down. Find someone to be your groundie if you don't want to climb up and down as much.

Not tough.

 

[jefflovstrom]

I love the HO forum,,
Jeff

 

[jpr2762]

Ok, so what kind of rigging ropes do you have genius? Too scared to climb a tall tree? Run a rigging rope into the other larger tree, tied off to the bottom of the larger tree, get up into the skinny tree, tie off the upper 1/4 of the skinny tree to the rigging rope and cut the sucker, swinging it to the other tree. Climb down the tree you're in, lower the top by way of the other tree and repeat until it's all down. Then, put on your big boy pants and this time, climb as high as possible into the larger tree, bring your rigging rope up with you and tie off the top, cut it and let it fall free but then lower it from in the tree with the rigging rope. Climb down, untie the top, climb back up and repeat the process until it's down. Find someone to be your groundie if you don't want to climb up and down as much.

Not tough.

Hey boss- Man i appreciate the rigging advice but that's not my focus right now unfortunately. Since you mentioned that portion of the job I did maybe go a little overboard and picked up a negative block rigging kit from WESPUR for when that time comes. Sounds like maybe you can help me actually

Since that skinny pine I'm starting on has no real suitable branches to support me for my climbing line install- as stated earlier, i purchased a 4ft false crotch to wrap around the body of the tree and install my climbing line thru the D-rings that way- It seems ridiculous to have to keep working the crotch up the tree manually past the 40ft mark but like I said- I'm seriously getting nervous just being on my flipline and spikes that high, I'd love nothing more than that safety line so i could actually use the saddle on my harness and take a breath for a bit. You have any other ideas on that part?? If I can get that safety line installed Id take my stihl up you know instead of hand sawing all this **** ) I seriously have a new respect for you guys climbing these things!!! I got my private pilots license in rotorcraft when I got out of the Army and its crazy to me how i start feeling looking thru my spikes at 40 feet ) Can't help but think "this could hurt" ) Somehow I more comfortable shutting our engine off at 1000ft and falling like a rock practicing autorotations than I am half way up that tree????

 

[ropensaddle]

Hey boss- Man i appreciate the rigging advice but that's not my focus right now unfortunately. Since you mentioned that portion of the job I did maybe go a little overboard and picked up a negative block rigging kit from WESPUR for when that time comes. Sounds like maybe you can help me actually

Since that skinny pine I'm starting on has no real suitable branches to support me for my climbing line install- as stated earlier, i purchased a 4ft false crotch to wrap around the body of the tree and install my climbing line thru the D-rings that way- It seems ridiculous to have to keep working the crotch up the tree manually past the 40ft mark but like I said- I'm seriously getting nervous just being on my flipline and spikes that high, I'd love nothing more than that safety line so i could actually use the saddle on my harness and take a breath for a bit. You have any other ideas on that part?? If I can get that safety line installed Id take my stihl up you know instead of hand sawing all this **** ) I seriously have a new respect for you guys climbing these things!!! I got my private pilots license in rotorcraft when I got out of the Army and its crazy to me how i start feeling looking thru my spikes at 40 feet ) Can't help but think "this could hurt" ) Somehow I more comfortable shutting our engine off at 1000ft and falling like a rock practicing autorotations than I am half way up that tree????

Skinny is one thing, how about dead, skinny and 30 mph wind Of course Loblolly is different than white pine and yes I have climbed both so don't get a big head lol.

 

[ropensaddle]

Here you go kiddo maybe this guy can show you how to set your line read the disclaimer though lol?

 

[hseII]

Big Shot

Climbing line

YouTube

 

[ropensaddle]

Yup then just use this

 

[hseII]

Yup then just use this

I’ve got about 100 quantity 70-95’ tall Pine to take down: many piece by piece.

I’m strongly considering one of those.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Hey boss- Man i appreciate the rigging advice but that's not my focus right now unfortunately. Since you mentioned that portion of the job I did maybe go a little overboard and picked up a negative block rigging kit from WESPUR for when that time comes. Sounds like maybe you can help me actually

Since that skinny pine I'm starting on has no real suitable branches to support me for my climbing line install- as stated earlier, i purchased a 4ft false crotch to wrap around the body of the tree and install my climbing line thru the D-rings that way- It seems ridiculous to have to keep working the crotch up the tree manually past the 40ft mark but like I said- I'm seriously getting nervous just being on my flipline and spikes that high, I'd love nothing more than that safety line so i could actually use the saddle on my harness and take a breath for a bit. You have any other ideas on that part?? If I can get that safety line installed Id take my stihl up you know instead of hand sawing all this **** ) I seriously have a new respect for you guys climbing these things!!! I got my private pilots license in rotorcraft when I got out of the Army and its crazy to me how i start feeling looking thru my spikes at 40 feet ) Can't help but think "this could hurt" ) Somehow I more comfortable shutting our engine off at 1000ft and falling like a rock practicing autorotations than I am half way up that tree????

You're over thinking this.

Your climbing line, as long as it goes around the tree will catch on any green branch larger than 1 1/2" and hold you up. Branches right at the trunk are very strong. We often do prunes and thins on trees like this without spurs. Once you are standing on a branch it's just like walking up a ladder. Put your feet close to the trunk, wrap your lanyard around the trunk, advance you climbing line, walk up a couple of branches repeat. Spurs just make is easier when you don't have branches at the proper height. When you are high enough, wrap your climbing line around the trunk above a branch, come down and then strip branches as you work your way back up.

When you get to a height where it's either too thin to walk further, to me it's about 4", or the top is small enough you feel comfortable to blow, let her go.

If you get to a branch you think is too big, for me it's when I can't fully wrap my hand around it. You can either walk out from the stem and cut the branch in half, hand saw is easier here, because you can grab the branch and drop where you want while you cut. Then you can cut the stub. OR you can put a rigging rope over a branch and rig the branch down.

Once the top is gone, just spike down a couple of steps, cut a block, push it off, repeat.

As long as your lanyard is against the stem, if you gaff out, you will not slide down the tree. The bark is rough enough that the friction will grab the lanyard and pull your body into the tree. You'll be eating bark, but not sliding down the tree.

 

[ArtB]

Would it be easier and cheaper just to take a section of the fence down and drop the trees whole?

+1

I've dropped trees for over 60 years but am fat now (6 ft, 230#) and besides wife wont let me even own climbing gear now <G>
I'd even go the route of just dropping the tree on the fence and repairing the fence vs. climbing.
In 'old age', my preferred method of getting an 80 ft tree down near a house is a wire rope about 60 ft up (placed using bow and arrow with leader cord and then pulling up first a rope and then wire rope) and pulling over with winch or dozer. Of course, not everyone has a dozer of big winch.

Only 'problem' with the wire rope approach is the teenage grandkids want to climb the tree with a pulley and old bike tire (brake) and use the rope for a super high speed 'zip line'. Now that is scary, but easy way to get down !

 

[lone wolf]

Seriously, You only have a wire core flip-line and spurs no experience and you are trying to climb 90 feet? You must first make sure your life insurance is paid and covers your family if you die. The reason pros are tied in with climbing rope is to allow escape from the tree if something bad happens and allow movement in the canopy. If you were to have some issue , heart attack,cut leg,broken arm how could you get down on a flipline? You must not fully understand the dangers and some jobs are not diy jobs.

Spot on brother.

 

[ropensaddle]

I’ve got about 100 quantity 70-95’ tall Pine to take down: many piece by piece.

I’m strongly considering one of those.

I'm considering where I would be without mine Congratulations that is a ton of work assuming you bid them? The wraptor does have a learning curve but so does everything. I love mine on large tall trees especially at days end!

 

[ropensaddle]

You're over thinking this.

Your climbing line, as long as it goes around the tree will catch on any green branch larger than 1 1/2" and hold you up. Branches right at the trunk are very strong. We often do prunes and thins on trees like this without spurs. Once you are standing on a branch it's just like walking up a ladder. Put your feet close to the trunk, wrap your lanyard around the trunk, advance you climbing line, walk up a couple of branches repeat. Spurs just make is easier when you don't have branches at the proper height. When you are high enough, wrap your climbing line around the trunk above a branch, come down and then strip branches as you work your way back up.

When you get to a height where it's either too thin to walk further, to me it's about 4", or the top is small enough you feel comfortable to blow, let her go.

If you get to a branch you think is too big, for me it's when I can't fully wrap my hand around it. You can either walk out from the stem and cut the branch in half, hand saw is easier here, because you can grab the branch and drop where you want while you cut. Then you can cut the stub. OR you can put a rigging rope over a branch and rig the branch down.

Once the top is gone, just spike down a couple of steps, cut a block, push it off, repeat.

As long as your lanyard is against the stem, if you gaff out, you will not slide down the tree. The bark is rough enough that the friction will grab the lanyard and pull your body into the tree. You'll be eating bark, but not sliding down the tree.

There ya go, close to trunk on white pine is great advice and I sure like loblolly and yellow pine better lol. I can be halfway out on a 5 inch green limb with no snapage, of course 20 years ago Id be 2/3rds out same limb. I got married and my,my,my, how fast things change.

 

[ropensaddle]

jpr 2762 post again we hope your ok.

 

[hseII]

I'm considering where I would be without mine Congratulations that is a ton of work assuming you bid them? The wraptor does have a learning curve but so does everything. I love mine on large tall trees especially at days end!

I didn’t Bid them: this is for family.

I could rent a bucket or a lift,( as I haven’t yet bought my own), or spend about the same money & own a Wraptor.

That’s my thinking anyways.

 

[ropensaddle]

I didn’t Bid them: this is for family.

I could rent a bucket or a lift,( as I haven’t yet bought my own), or spend about the same money & own a Wraptor.

That’s my thinking anyways.

Lol well, hmm or you could rent me when I get back from California haha I could tow my butt and wraptor down there to Georgia fur a spell. Ps. there would need to be safe camping