ccarpen4753
ArboristSite Operative
I want to see some of the lawnmowers everyone uses and see some customised and purpose built setups. Getting an extra mower and want some ideas.
Lets see some custom lawnmower cutting/hauling setups
- Thread starter ccarpen4753
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Hank Chinaski
Number 37
here's one of mine from a few years ago. Both drive axles worked and it had a good amount of traction. I later came out the side of the motor and put a small tubular muffler on it and welded a zoom tube to it so it had a 3' stack on one side. Thought my ears would bleed when I ran it. I used it for pulling junk around and to rough mow tall stuff.
here's one of mine from a few years ago. Both drive axles worked and it had a good amount of traction. I later came out the side of the motor and put a small tubular muffler on it and welded a zoom tube to it so it had a 3' stack on one side. Thought my ears would bleed when I ran it. I used it for pulling junk around and to rough mow tall stuff.
cool looking rig....
joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
here's one of mine from a few years ago. Both drive axles worked and it had a good amount of traction. I later came out the side of the motor and put a small tubular muffler on it and welded a zoom tube to it so it had a 3' stack on one side. Thought my ears would bleed when I ran it. I used it for pulling junk around and to rough mow tall stuff.
How'd you add the extra rear wheels? I just so happen to have two spare garden tractors laying around and one is going to be turned into a wood hauler...the other has no purpose yet, maybe use it for parts?
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
a neighbor had the same mower w/a rod hanging out of the block, so I just cut the rear deck/trans off and used some 1" sq tube to brace it up. Then I made some spacers from round pipe and welded a couple pulleys that were the same size to the top of the existing horizontal pulley that drove the trans. put a belt between them and was done.
If I do a version two it will pivot in the center (L/R yaw) like a Coot so it'd keep better traction on rough terrain better.
If I do a version two it will pivot in the center (L/R yaw) like a Coot so it'd keep better traction on rough terrain better.
IHDiesel73L
ArboristSite Operative
NICE! I'm sending this pic to my old man. He runs a small OPE repair business out of his house and has tons of parts laying around.
Vangellis
ArboristSite Guru
Nothing custom, just what I use for getting wood off the neighbors property.
2005 Simplicity Conquest with a 17 cu.ft. Brinly trailer. A couple vids and some pics.
Kevin
2005 Simplicity Conquest with a 17 cu.ft. Brinly trailer. A couple vids and some pics.
Kevin
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
not a very good pic, but i use this quite often to go get a few pieces:msp_cool:
wheelhorse 312-8.
wheelhorse 312-8.
OK, here’s the story on this one.
It’s a late 1960’s Sears/Craftsman that I acquired in a trade in 1981 (I traded a shotgun for it). It mowed my grass until 1992 when the deck became worn beyond repair. It’s been hauling wood out’a my woodlot for the last 19-years. Built near as well as a small bulldozer; solid heavy steel construction throughout. The engine is a HH100 Tecumseh. The transaxle is cast iron and consists of a 3-speed transmission and a 2-speed axle which makes for 6 forward gears and 2 in reverse. Put it in low-gear/low range and top speed wouldn’t pass a slow turtle but it sure will pull… as long as it can keep traction.
In order to increase traction I put tubes in the rear tires, filled them with calcium chloride solution and added 4-brake rotors per side, which increased weight to well over 100-pounds per wheel. I cut down an old set of tire chains (the kind with ice spikes) that I had lying in the shed to add more traction. I also wanted it to start, even when the temperature dropped below zero… That’s an 850 CCA truck battery on the back and it supplies plenty of spark and crank to get ‘er running in any weather. The battery weight added a bit more traction.
I had problems with the trailer tongue hitting the rear tires and binding it up when turning in tight spots. I built the hitch bar to extend the ball back some and attached it in 4 places… front and aft on the frame. It has the added benefit of keeping the tractor from coming over backwards when pulling heavy loads uphill. The hitch bar lets me make sharp turns in tight places when pulling a trailer... way tighter places than an ATV can get into. And I’m thinking it will pull heavier loads than most ATV’s could muster.
Years ago my daughter smashed into the corncrib, destroying the front grille and such. I built this heavy-duty front end and bumper from tube steel. That bumper has saved a ton of “wreckage” over the years. At one time I had a second trailer ball mounted up front on the bumper… also handy.
Just this spring I added the 3000-pound winch. It can be used to pull the tractor out of a mud hole if needed but that ain’t its main purpose. I use the winch to pull trees in a direction opposite the natural lean when felling so they land in open areas, making it easier to buck. I also use it to pull snags down and felled trees out of the brush. I chain the hitch bar to a tree otherwise the winch would just pull the tractor forward. By rigging the snatch-block pulley I can apply 6000 pounds of winching force… which will do a lot of work for ya’. Good thing I have that 850 CCA battery on the back to power the winch, huh?
It’s a late 1960’s Sears/Craftsman that I acquired in a trade in 1981 (I traded a shotgun for it). It mowed my grass until 1992 when the deck became worn beyond repair. It’s been hauling wood out’a my woodlot for the last 19-years. Built near as well as a small bulldozer; solid heavy steel construction throughout. The engine is a HH100 Tecumseh. The transaxle is cast iron and consists of a 3-speed transmission and a 2-speed axle which makes for 6 forward gears and 2 in reverse. Put it in low-gear/low range and top speed wouldn’t pass a slow turtle but it sure will pull… as long as it can keep traction.
In order to increase traction I put tubes in the rear tires, filled them with calcium chloride solution and added 4-brake rotors per side, which increased weight to well over 100-pounds per wheel. I cut down an old set of tire chains (the kind with ice spikes) that I had lying in the shed to add more traction. I also wanted it to start, even when the temperature dropped below zero… That’s an 850 CCA truck battery on the back and it supplies plenty of spark and crank to get ‘er running in any weather. The battery weight added a bit more traction.
I had problems with the trailer tongue hitting the rear tires and binding it up when turning in tight spots. I built the hitch bar to extend the ball back some and attached it in 4 places… front and aft on the frame. It has the added benefit of keeping the tractor from coming over backwards when pulling heavy loads uphill. The hitch bar lets me make sharp turns in tight places when pulling a trailer... way tighter places than an ATV can get into. And I’m thinking it will pull heavier loads than most ATV’s could muster.
Years ago my daughter smashed into the corncrib, destroying the front grille and such. I built this heavy-duty front end and bumper from tube steel. That bumper has saved a ton of “wreckage” over the years. At one time I had a second trailer ball mounted up front on the bumper… also handy.
Just this spring I added the 3000-pound winch. It can be used to pull the tractor out of a mud hole if needed but that ain’t its main purpose. I use the winch to pull trees in a direction opposite the natural lean when felling so they land in open areas, making it easier to buck. I also use it to pull snags down and felled trees out of the brush. I chain the hitch bar to a tree otherwise the winch would just pull the tractor forward. By rigging the snatch-block pulley I can apply 6000 pounds of winching force… which will do a lot of work for ya’. Good thing I have that 850 CCA battery on the back to power the winch, huh?
Cool tractor Whitespider. We had a similar age Craftsman when I was growing up, and it was quite rugged. The frame plate on that was about 5/16" thick (compared to 1/8-3/16" on a modern yard tractor). They don't make 'em like that anymore.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
very ongoing:jester:
ccarpen4753
ArboristSite Operative
I am going to be getting one similiar to the murray, but without the extra axle.
ccarpen4753
ArboristSite Operative
forgot to put mine up
View attachment 204538
Here is mine, with the boss at the wheel. Early 80's jd185.
View attachment 204538
Here is mine, with the boss at the wheel. Early 80's jd185.
Kingsley
ArboristSite Guru
View attachment 204554
View attachment 204553
Here are mine. I have a JD 318 and a 300. I LOVE the 318. Power steering and plenty of power. The 318 is a little monster in the woods too. I have the rear bar style tires filled with fluid which gives it plenty of traction. We use it to skid logs to an open area in the woods, then we buck them up. The 300 then grabs the rounds and hauls them to the gooseneck trailer. I also use the 318 to pull down snags. Really amazing what it can do!
I have a 4-way hydraulic blade that fits either tractor that works well for clearing trails and pushing brush piles.
The home made trailer you see attached to the 318 is for hauling large rounds, but it doesn't get used much anymore. Instead, we cut the large rounds in half out in the woods. Much easier to handle and split.
When we are splitting onsite we use the 318 to supply the splitter crew with 17 cubic foot agri-fab trailers loaded with rounds. We are able to back the trailers in on each side of the splitter and keep the splitter fed quite easily.
I want to post a thread of our firewood process, but haven't collected enough "action shots". It works quite well, and I agree with Whitespider, I don't think an ATV could do what my garden tractors do.
View attachment 204553
Here are mine. I have a JD 318 and a 300. I LOVE the 318. Power steering and plenty of power. The 318 is a little monster in the woods too. I have the rear bar style tires filled with fluid which gives it plenty of traction. We use it to skid logs to an open area in the woods, then we buck them up. The 300 then grabs the rounds and hauls them to the gooseneck trailer. I also use the 318 to pull down snags. Really amazing what it can do!
I have a 4-way hydraulic blade that fits either tractor that works well for clearing trails and pushing brush piles.
The home made trailer you see attached to the 318 is for hauling large rounds, but it doesn't get used much anymore. Instead, we cut the large rounds in half out in the woods. Much easier to handle and split.
When we are splitting onsite we use the 318 to supply the splitter crew with 17 cubic foot agri-fab trailers loaded with rounds. We are able to back the trailers in on each side of the splitter and keep the splitter fed quite easily.
I want to post a thread of our firewood process, but haven't collected enough "action shots". It works quite well, and I agree with Whitespider, I don't think an ATV could do what my garden tractors do.
zogger
Tree Freak
Wheelhorse
Nice ride. I have a model c-101, it is the only tractor I actually own. Before we moved here, I used it for dragging logs out and big landscaping rocks around. My traction advantage was/still is the tiller mounted on the back. along with a lot of added weight in the rear, if I started to get stuck I would throw the PTO on, engage the tiller, and drop it down. All them tines grabbing in and cutting forward gave it a lot more serious go thisaway -> juice.
If I get another one, I will replace the tines with two ag or atv type wheels/tires bolted together on each side, same deal, drop for traction, up for moving to get where you are going or when you really don't need them. Mine has a hitch mounted on the back of the tiller for pulling a wagon. The tiller trick works really well if the ground is hard, semi frozen or frozen, etc. Even muddy it helps a lot, but the tines aren't perfect, well, because they cut, aren't really designed for traction, hence the idea for just wheels.
Nice ride. I have a model c-101, it is the only tractor I actually own. Before we moved here, I used it for dragging logs out and big landscaping rocks around. My traction advantage was/still is the tiller mounted on the back. along with a lot of added weight in the rear, if I started to get stuck I would throw the PTO on, engage the tiller, and drop it down. All them tines grabbing in and cutting forward gave it a lot more serious go thisaway -> juice.
If I get another one, I will replace the tines with two ag or atv type wheels/tires bolted together on each side, same deal, drop for traction, up for moving to get where you are going or when you really don't need them. Mine has a hitch mounted on the back of the tiller for pulling a wagon. The tiller trick works really well if the ground is hard, semi frozen or frozen, etc. Even muddy it helps a lot, but the tines aren't perfect, well, because they cut, aren't really designed for traction, hence the idea for just wheels.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
yeah i thought i was the only one who did that with the tiller i like the wheelhorses. they seem to hold up very well and won't put you in the poorhouse when they break. the one in the pic is currently up for sale. i have a couple more garden tractors and this one just isn't getting used like it should.
Nuzzy
Trail Gnome
I do love my little diesel repowered Allis. Though I don't use the arch much now since getting the dump bed truck. Think my next project will be building a maneuverable, low trailer for getting rounds from tight spaces quickly back to the truck.
Rookie1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ah yes. I forgot about your repower. That was a nice Thread and a nice job that you did Nuzz. Maybe you should resurrect it for the newbs.:msp_smile:
